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  2. It is just two pieces you need for the throttle and it prevents the one throttle pushing the cable of the other.
  3. An LS swap in the U.K. Won't be cheap. But really depends on your actual end goals. I like RV8's as well. Have two of them at the mo and an LS motor in a Camaro. The Rover lump is a good engine for 200-240hp. But totally not worth it IMO if you are after more power. You'll sink loads for little gain. LS motors are rare hear but we're fitted to the Monaro and VXR8 sold by Vauxhall. But won't be cheap. However all of these will be 350-400hp with no mods being 5.7, 6.0 or 6.2 litre.
  4. Yeah, but the home-made brackets were free... and do the job perfectly!
  5. Today
  6. It was a 50/50 lol Cheers Pete
  7. No, other way It opens a bypass round the throttle plate
  8. Thanks Pete. I guess I will leave it alone for now then. Will it be anti-clockwise to slow down and clockwise to speed up?
  9. The OP should have used the hand throttle linkage at the injection pump. It is not costly and is better designed to have two things pulling on the throttle at once.
  10. Yeah I think the castings are quite variable
  11. One of the things you do when setting up the engine for the first time on MS (and actually on hotwire/Lucas) is set the base idle. You do this by slackening the throttle cable so the throttle plate seals properly, and blocking both hoses going to the ISV. Set the idle speed to around 650 hot using the above grub screw Then you set the idle speed with the ISV using the idle settings in software
  12. How can I make sure this is set at factory position on Hotwire plenum? I see that someone in the past has taken the cap off mine so god knows what it's sitting at..
  13. Yep that's what I'm going to do Pete. I know however there are a few that removed the plate and decided to blank the bolt holes. I was just a bit surprised to find 3 open holes when all I can remember hearing was that there were 2 open.
  14. Just depends what gear you are in, the governor does the rest
  15. I think I just left the plate in place,... with the pipes knocked off
  16. This might be old news but thought it might save people some aggravation. Regarding the "heat delete" mod where people get rid of the heater hoses on the Hotwire plenum. Everything I have read on this suggests that 2 of the bolt holes for the heater plate are open to the interior of the plenum causing no end of tickover problems/throttle hesitation etc if not blocked. Well scratch that. There are actually 3 of the bolt holes open to the plenum. So if you have blocked the inner 2 holes that are obviously open and are still experiencing problems, this could be the reason. Just thought I'd share as I've just discovered this by complete chance.
  17. It's not critical, plus minus 10% whatever, the RV8 can happily swallow a LOT of excess fuel before it cares.
  18. I thought 200TDi cruise control was a house brick on the accelerator pedal?
  19. See your problem.. Apart from getting a mechanic who knows what he / she is doing, the obvious way to go is to replace the Td5's with Td'5. Turner's do very, very good engines and if swopping like for likes, it could be worth getting some outside help fitting the things. Although I love the Mazda lumps (3.5 Tdi 4 cyl.) that is a good, strong and very simple engine I'd not go that route as you're going to have problems getting spares etc. We also have an 2.8 Iveco in a 130 that did very, very well but again, parts could be a problem. Bon Courage !
  20. luckily I came prepared. one thing to note is that my coolant temp sensor reads about 10 degrees too warm at low temps, so 5 real temp is read as 15/16 by the sensor
  21. And one of your WUE table now.... (warm up enrichment )
  22. Wes - in the UK it's a far less attractive prospect. Also you're better off getting an LS plus 4L60e or 4l80e if you want an auto, and then Advance Adapters I think have adapters to mount a variety of boxes to the LT230 (which is at least up to the job). You're gonna spend a lot on shipping and customs to get one to the UK, and it's not like you can use much more power in a LR without having to upgrade everything else. The flipside is if you want more than about 300hp it's potentially cheaper to buy an LS than it is to wring the guts of an RV8 with expensive tuning parts. Over the other side of the pond the RV8 is rare and expensive and LS's are in everything from delivery vans to drag racers so the equation tips massively the other way.
  23. ja sorry Bowie, I have been known to be hard of listening...... ok so I have changed to "warm up only", the idle was a bit high so I fiddled with my upper and lower parameters and settled on 41 and 31 (figured that as it was too high at 25 and only got higher as I went down to 24,23 etc I tried going up and it got better till 31 and then started revving higher again, hope my logic works) here it is with my ASE
  24. Ah, l see. It would l imagine be a bit "lazy" on power delivery with no turbo.
  25. Yup The one I have been telling you to tweak for 3 pages now
  26. thanks Bowie, um ... ahhh... ASE? which one is that ?? After Start Enrichment?
  27. That 37 in your VE table, change to 41, a hole like this in your fuelling can wreak havoc. Around idle you want all the same fuelling, no more than 1 or two different per cell. Do you have a fuel pressure sender???? If not then the figures you suggest are just spurious, and can be ignored. To be honest with you, I would kill the closed loop idle control, you do NOT need it, and believe it to be complicating things for you, a LOT. It can mask the true problem by trying to fix a bad idle, when actually what you need to do is get it idling properly without any crutches from cold, then in the future, if you feel you need it, go closed loop. I don't tend to do closed loop any more, way too much hassle, and can get a perfectly good smooth idle, which reacts properly to load changes such as fans/AC/auto box engagement without the idle valve doing anything. So to go back to basics, I would change your closed loop to 'warmup only' and then open your idle valve to 45 DC for cranking as you have above. This simplifies everything.... if you have too many variables going on, you WILL start chasing your tail. Looking at your graph, the engine is definitely leaning out as it comes down from the surge after starting. Can you post a pic of your ASE table to compare please?
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