All Activity

This stream auto-updates   

  1. Past hour
  2. Thanks for your help
  3. Cool, 90% is default Turn the other one off and fingers crossed then
  4. Decel Fuel Amount is currently 90% When it wams up a bit I'll go outside and have a play
  5. Doh, screens are similar, but called 'Decel fuel amount' in MS2.
  6. According to Tunerstudio, MS2 Extra release 3.3.3 (I'm not online in the landy right now!)
  7. Ah, I see, I think MS1 029v... Firstly I would turn that off, and go for a drive, see what difference it makes, if it helps, then great, we can look elsewhere Second, that setting is a bit of a big hammer blow to the engine, there is a better way.... so turn that off, then go into 'Accel Enrichment Wizard', look at the 'Decel fuel amount (%)', report back... I have previously run autos with 0% in there, however... they ran like you describe, and actually are much better/smoother when set to about 80% when coming back on the throttle, not sure why, but you can't cut it that much in there
  8. What code version are you on? MS1/2/3 and version? 029v or...?
  9. I believe the Vauxhall is a rebadged Isuzu Trooper / bighorn. I think in Australia it was the holden jackeroo? Like this; I would imagine Isuzu parts would be easier to find than Vauxhall but that's purely a guess and I don't know if it was a straight rebadge or if they changed any parts? I don't know what countries they sold in either so I couldn't say where to go for a good stock of LHD?
  10. Today
  11. It's an auto. Here's the fuel cut settings: AE is reasonably well tuned - no stutters etc when accelerating / mashing the throttle. Looking at the above, maybe it's just as simple as changing the TPS Lower than % to something a bit lower! Durrr..
  12. What percentage overrun fuel are you running? Auto or manual? Do you have your AE tuned nicely?
  13. Hi All On very light throttle, such as tickling it along at 60mph on a dual carriageway with a slight downhill slope, the throttle will be very jerky - it's like the MS thinks it should be cutting fuel, then when you press the accelerator slightly more it comes off overrun fuel cut with a jolt and lots of transmission shunt. I've tried recalibrating the throttle sensor but that's made no difference. Any suggestions? Thanks Jon
  14. Typically wheel bearings show up as noisy when they are most heavily loaded. Thus if it is your nearside front it would show up as noisiest when turning hard right and the greatest load is on the front left hand corner of the vehicle. Going round a roundabout would be the perfect place to see if this is the case. Something which starts to show up at 50mph would suggest that something is out of balance. Just a thought, but try topping up your swivel housings with oil and see if that makes a difference
  15. transfer box oil fill & oil level plug is on the rear face to left of the transmission brake drum, it should be a 1/2 inch recessed square drive, a 1/2inch ratchet handle fits straight in, fill with EP90 until it starts to run out when oil level is at bottom of the plug hole.
  16. Put some diesel in it. I wouldn't trust the fuel gauge. Have you checked the air filter? Is it smoking? Have you had any work done to it recently? Check the intercooler hoses, they might be collapsing under vacuum.
  17. Morning, Had a look at the transfer box over the weekend, looks to be fine. Teeth are all in good condition etc. Drained the oil and there were no metal chunks or metal on the sump plug. Can pretty much rule this out. Started the engine and tried to get drive, as you come up the cluthc and you hear the grinding/rattle the gears in the transfer box rotated slightly then stopped. They all moved at once, so I reckon it must be the clutch? What do you guys think? Also, how do you fill the transfer box with oil? Cheers
  18. Forget a V8, the fuel cost will kill you. My money would be on an old defender, more room inside to sleep in if needed.
  19. When were the tappets last adjusted ?
  20. Yesterday
  21. thanks heaps Daan! easy to see the twin coil overs mounted to front radius arms. Anyone want to sepculate that the rear end linkage has been changed and the lateral location is via a watts linkage?
  22. Lots of interesting things added to the post, unfortunately my progresses isn't great, I have basically dragged the plasma out of the truck, finally bolted the wheels on and connected everything up. Quality looks good and everything is nice and solid. Switches and dials clunk and click like you would think they should and the power control has a nice bit of resistance to it. Both cables were good and the -3 temps didn't effect the flex. It came with a handful of torch spares, some sort of pokey tool, the plug for the CNC socket, CNC diagram and manual. Couple of pics inside, it all looks pretty good to me Front Back Torch (seems nice) Circuit diagram for the CNC control Now the big problem occurred, I charged down to screwfix to grab some 32amp commando plugs knowing I wouldn't have time to wire up a new circuit I thought screw it I can give it a go in the 16amp, the 32amp plug looks the same, with hindsight this was obviously not going to be the case! but I was in a hurry! So for future reference to any other idiots out there, 32amp on the left, 16amp on the right, quite a size difference! So long story short, no progress has been made
  23. Apologies Richard, I missed this thread popping back up. My memory of the repair is pretty sketchy, however I definitely had to remove the rock slider things I had fitted at the time. It may be possible to slide the battery box flange out from between the seat box and sill member, but I'm not sure. Your stuck seat rail bolts - if you remove the centre cover panel you'll be able to get to the nut on the inner one with a spanner. The outer one would be more tricky, if you can't get to it underneath you'll probably have to cut/drill the bolt head off. I never got round to painting/sealing mine, which I now regret as there's a 1/4" layer of dried mud/silt from various off road excursions. It would be wise to seal up the joints at least - if mine ever comes apart again sufficiently I will take the opportunity to do it then.
  24. Thanks I will take your advice and forget the prop shaft removal idea if push comes to shove I will just have to cycle to work a couple of shifts. Fingers crossed the bearings intact. Ian
  25. you can adjust the wheel bearings so there is a very small end float, make it to tight & bearing will sieze.
  26. Disconnecting the front prop will make no difference as the wheels need to rotate on the bearings regardless of being driven or not. The running with one prop is fine as a "get me home" (if not far) but not ideal for running about with it off and the diff lock engaged....I'd rather knacker a hub bearing than a transfer box.
  27. Hi guys. I have a discovery 2 auto. Only had it a few months now. I took it in to a local garage and they noticed an oil leak between the transfer box and gear box. The auto fluid is getting past the seal and dribbling out. So. Out came the transfer box and the seal changed. It then leaked even more. The garage said it needed a new auto box which to be fair I thought was ott. They changed the seal yet again and this time it is better but leaks a bit. My question is, what next shall I keep topping up try a mother garage to sort it out. A new auto box. I have found wanna do a stop leak for a auto gearbox has any one used one? Are they any good.? Is it an option. I know loads of questions. Cheers guys
  1. Load more activity