what freelander to buy?

[spiker3]

Hi everyone out there, I need a bit of advice. I have had a few land rovers in the past whilst living overseas but now I am back in the UK I feel the need to swap my old fiesta for a 4x4. I only have about £1500 to £2000 to play with. I had toyed with the idea of getting an old jeep Cherokee but my heart says buy land rover. I know nothing about freelanders except that rumour has it that the 1.8 petrol isn't a good choice.

So to all you out there with good ideas and advice. Is diesel the way? What about the 2.5 petrol? I don't mind if the vehicle is not in pristine condition as long as it mechanically sound, as I would like to raise it up and inch or two and put all terrains on it. Maybe a new paint scheme and add some cool accessories. Any ideas or helpful advice would be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance, I know you guys will come up with a lot of advice and ideas to get me started.

Spiker

[Tanuki]

I'd avoid the K-series petrol engines (they have headgasket/cooling issues) and the early 2-litre diesels (rattly clockwork engine based on the old Austin Montego).

TD4 engine is smoother, cleaner-running, more powerful, more economical - works well with an autobox; given that no Freelander has a low ratio box the [bMW derived] auto's good because the torque-converter can handle a lot of slipping at low speeds which will rapidly smoke the clutch on a manual.

Transmission can have issues - the VCU should be seen as a £500 service-item after 70,000 miles - if it seizes and you carry on driving you cause damage to the IRD [transfer-box] and/or crack the mounting points where the rear diff bolts to the bodyshell, which will reveal itself as a click from the rear when reversing.

I wouldn't 'lift' a Freelander - they're wallowy enough as standard [the nickname 'hippo' is quite apt].

[spiker3]

Tanuki,

Thanks for your quick reply, a diesel it is then. If the VCU should be seen as a serviceable unit does that possibly mean it might have been sorted if the vehicle has a full service history?

If it is not a good idea to lift a freelander what is the best way to get any extra ground clearance? Whats the biggest tyres or rims that can be fitted.

Thanks,

Spiker

[FridgeFreezer]

deja-vu:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=95003

Although if you're buying a freelander mainly to go off-roading you might be better spending money on an old Disco or Range Rover, they will be rusty as f*** but are better supported spares & accessories wise and having a low-range is helpful.

The FL is awesome off-road, punches way above its weight, but you will end up spending more on maintenance as there are a few compromises compared to the more agricultural stuff.

[spiker3]

Does seem a bit like deja-vu, I didn't see the other one.

I don't plan to do too much off roading at the moment, the idea of a discovery does seem good but not being too mechanically minded for my budget there might be too much work involved seeing as it will need to be my daily driver. I still have a range rover classic in Botswana and I love them to bits but once again on my budget I wouldn't get much. That's why I thought the freelander would be a good idea if I stick with landrover. As with all my cars I would want to personalise it. Not too sure the way to go yet though

[FridgeFreezer]

Fl is certainly better value as a daily driver (it may still break down but they don't really rust unlike Disco / RR) and you can get a hell of a long way off-road in one with a bit of practice and a set of all-terrain tyres.

[studmuffin]

Spiker, welcome to the forum.

The 1.8 is really best avoided.

As stated Freelanders don't rust badly and the TD4 engine is a BMW lump and takes a lot of abuse. They go off-road much better than you think.

Personally I am a Defender guy but hanker after a 2.5 V6 petrol Freebie as a big boys toy.

Cheers

Barry

[tacr2man]

Re Freelander best choice by far TD4 auto , fit a new gen GKN VCU as a matter of course , unless you get definite evidence of a recent fitment , as they are the thing that causes all the problems. Other weak point on all older freelanders are glass lift wires , very common for models to have a window not working . If you don't need a 4 door 2 door is usually cheaper . FBH was standard on earlier td4s but became option on later models , but if working is a plus. Continental X contact AT is a very good tyre fitment if you can find some, sixteen inch wheels give a better choice of tyres at a reasonable price. HTSH

[spiker3]

Thanks tacr2man,

Excuse my ignorance but what is FBH? Funny about the glass wire weak point, I looked at a freelander yesterday. It seemed quite nice but the drivers window wasn't working along with the sunroof. The seller said the propshaft was brand new he had just fitted it, is that a good selling point (or just trying to impress a novice buyer?)

I have been looking for a manual rather than an auto because I like to feel more involved. Why is the auto a better choice ?

[Bowie69]

With no low range gearbox, you can use the auto torque converter to get along without having to slip and burn the clutch out.

Especially with a diesel you will give the clutch a really really hard time off road when trying to get over obstacles.

[tacr2man]

The auto as mentioned by previous poster gives a lower gear effect as it can use the torque converter to allow engine to rev to develop more torque without resulting in a burnt out clutch as the manual would. The auto has a manual control function as well as full auto . FBH is fuel burning heater. The propshafts are not a problem its the VCU that links them . Did he have a receipt, for about £400 for the vcu , if not don't believe them. Be wary of any vehicle that has faults like non op windows, as its a sign that they don't maintain the vehicle properly, if they haven't fixed that what else have they neglected. HTSH

[spiker3]

Thanks to everyone,

I am now on the lookout for a td4 auto, with as low mileage as possible, service history and hopefully some evidence that the vcu is in good order. I am not in too much of a hurry so I can wait for the right one to come along.

Spiker.

[FridgeFreezer]

You're probably better off just budgeting for replacing the VCU rather than finding someone who has actually bothered to replace the thing, I'd be very sceptical of anyone promising they had done it, half the world doesn't know which bit is the VCU, which is the IRD and which is their elbow.

For reference, this bit is the VCU:

If you off-road it, the two support bearings wither side of it will get grumbly quite regularly, especially the front one. Gen parts ones are about £50, none of the others seem to last.