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Clear over Base Metallic Paint Advice


keithjh

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Hi All,

Some advice help needed. My 110 is in dire need of paint, its Metallic Blue Clear over base (South African import 300tdi 1995).

Anyway though many years ago i used to paint all my Series trucks i only ever used cellulose.

Questions i have are:-

After i have prepped and etch primed any new metal should i use a sealer over the complete vehicle like Barcoat (if it still exists)?

Which High Build Primer is suitable?

What type of laquer?

Any tips on generally painting Base Coat, then applying the Laquer.

Regards

Keith

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I normally; Clean well and etch prime the ally. Zink prime any steel bits. Ordinary filler for blemishes. I use aerosol high-build grey, cut back with wet and dry for the base where I need it. For the good-bits I use wet and dry abrasive paper in water. I don't prime good paint, just rough it with 1000 or finer.

For paint I bought metallic blue that dries dull, laying down more layers with a good break between for drying to build up colour on primered bits. Then on with 2pack lacquer, which I did outside last time. This is the money shot, and it is hard to get that balance between curtains and insufficient depth. But being 2 pack it really dries quickly and will go off in the tin once mixed.

Biggest risk for me is being too hot under the sun on the body panels. But it all depends on how much you intend to cut back and polish afterward?

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The original paint job will be in two pack, very caustic due to the cyanide componant but the advantage to mass production is it dries almost instantly so there are few if any production delays. Your easy alternative is acrylic, easy to apply but it doesnt have the high gloss finish of two pack, consequently you will need to apply at least two coats of clear to bring the finish back to the original finish.

Preparation wise, two to three coats of etch primer and two coats of undercoat, allow this to dry, then with an areosol can(s) apply black filler, this is then removed by rubbing back with fine grade wet & dry - 800 grade, this will give a smooth finish and remove any blemishes, allow at least 12 hours dry time between the etch coats and undercoat. When you apply the acrylic top coats dont hold back and apply good coats but avoid paint runs, this is the art of the master sprayer and you need to get some scraps of metal to practice on, allow the top coats to dry, again 12 hours before you apply the clear, after teh first coat rub back with 1200 grade wet and dry and then apply your final coat of clear.

One last thing, you will need a clean, dry dust free and well ventilated area to do this - its called a spray booth..............

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Laquer will be 2k. I wouldn't use anything else. Yes you can buy cellulose laquer but it's soft as **** and almost worthless.

2k does NOT contain cyanide, it's isocyanate, which is completely different. It causes sensitisation, and asthma, but that it is all. You do need proper respiratory protection to use it, but there is also a lot of rubbish talked about its use. I use nothing else these days.

Use 2k high build primer after you've etch primed etc, then flat and apply base coat. Do not use a water based base unless you have an oven to bake it in - use solvent based instead.

Finally if spraying 2k you need to use either an hvlp or better a trans tech set up on your gun. Look for about a 2mm fluid til for primer and a 1.4 for base and laquer and you won't go far wrong. Make sure you use a moisture trap, and air pressure for hvlp should be regulated to about 20psi for hvlp or 30psi for trans tech. If you try and use a traditional spray gun setup you'll get poor results with 2k.

Jon

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Laquer will be 2k. I wouldn't use anything else. Yes you can buy cellulose laquer but it's soft as **** and almost worthless.

2k does NOT contain cyanide, it's isocyanate, which is completely different. It causes sensitisation, and asthma, but that it is all. You do need proper respiratory protection to use it, but there is also a lot of rubbish talked about its use. I use nothing else these days.

Use 2k high build primer after you've etch primed etc, then flat and apply base coat. Do not use a water based base unless you have an oven to bake it in - use solvent based instead.

Finally if spraying 2k you need to use either an hvlp or better a trans tech set up on your gun. Look for about a 2mm fluid til for primer and a 1.4 for base and laquer and you won't go far wrong. Make sure you use a moisture trap, and air pressure for hvlp should be regulated to about 20psi for hvlp or 30psi for trans tech. If you try and use a traditional spray gun setup you'll get poor results with 2k.

Jon

+1

Another tip, make sure your compressor can handle using a spray gun and an air fed mask and dont have it in the same room you are spraying in.

The booth i can use has a 300L compressor and with a mask on its just enough time to spray 2-3 panels per coat before the air runs out.

An air fed mask takes up a lot of air

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+1

Another tip, make sure your compressor can handle using a spray gun and an air fed mask and dont have it in the same room you are spraying in.

The booth i can use has a 300L compressor and with a mask on its just enough time to spray 2-3 panels per coat before the air runs out.

An air fed mask takes up a lot of air

Okay all thanks for the advice, the HVLP guns are not a problem. The workshop is 30x30ft so plenty of room. my compressor is a 200L tank 15CFM, so i will probably need to borrow another compressor to run outside for the air fed mask, which at the moment is my main stumbling block, still will get round it some way.

Regards

Keith

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I look at 2 pack lacquer like I was spraying the van with epoxy glue. My 'over the road' neighbours don't like cutting hedges, so I can confirm it is pretty tough against scratches.

I'm no spray booth artist, just a driveway have-a-go bod. The blue I use has twice the metallic over normal. Being matt finish I get away with an awful lot and basically just 'colour' it in. I have to be a bit more careful with the lacquer, and it is pretty hard to get nice, so I do one panel at a time. (Took a week to last time, but I'm happy with it ). And lets face facts, I sprayed the whole thing last year, and I see somebody's took a piece out of the paint on a wing panel. So I hope to have another blast at it today. I need to get meself off here and go apply some wet and dry to my high-build aerosol primer now its had 2 days to dry out. Can't be many more outdoor spray days left in 2014?

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And if it reacts in a local area, which it has just done, ( because I got too much paint on one bit ), leave it for an hour and then wet sand back with some soap, so the soft paint doesn't bind up and snag the abrasive.

I sanded back a chip and had a reaction of about 1" diameter ring. Watched some ship wreck program and then sorted it. For time wasting it's worse than loading windows XP :)

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