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Dezzie

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Hi everyone.

Clutch is getting desperate now, been putting it off for ages as don't do that many miles in the Freelander. (done 20,000 in 4 and a half years).

Went to to see my usual mechanic, but he said it was too much for him (works on his own in a small garage with no lift). He told me to shop around, and be 'choosy' about the clutch kit that gets fitted.

I'd be amazed if Land Rover make their own. Does anyone know whose clutches they used on Freelander 1's? I had a quote today of £395.00. (all in supply & fit inc. VAT). I asked which clutch kit this was, and the nice chap told me he only uses good quality clutches, which were either L.U.K, VALEO or SACHS. Is one better than the other?

Thing is, I can get a SACHS clutch kit for about £100. (GSF are doing 35% off this week). So they want 300 quid to fit it ? ? ? :o Is it just me that thinks this is a bit steep? :wacko: 300 quid for not even a day's work ? ? Is this right?

Thanks for any replies. ........ Matt

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£395 to include parts for a clutch-job sounds OK to me - my local mechanic charged me £250 to replace a part on my Defender that cost £130 and needed 1.5 hours labour.

He is, however, VAT-registered so I get to claim the VAT component of the job back.

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What engine? The td4 is an absolute nightmare to do a clutch, trust me, having done a few it's not a job i enjoy. The clutch slave is a concentric slave on a td4 so must be changed at the same time (another £70). £395 to do a td4 is cheap!! The 1.8 is a bit easier but still a fairly involved job.

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395 is an absolute bargain if the parts are good.

As said, td4's have concentric clutch cylinders so well worth springing to replace that while it's all apart.

It cost me about 1k to get clutch, slave, and new dual mass flywheel done using good bits by a mechanic I trust. That was parts and labour.

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IIRC the freelander OEM was LUK for clutches and DMF's so they (to me) would be the safest bet, I wouldn't have a problem with Valeo at all (currently the only clutch that has lasted so far behind my engine although its a bitsa setup)

Borg and Beck at least used to be good, I haven't used them for a while though. I don't think you can go too far wrong as long as you choose wisely and ensure the manufacturer has a good reputation.

Having done a TD4 engine swap on an auto, I didn't think it was the worst job ever, although I do have a ramp and dropped the engine and box as one out the bottom.

trying to put the 2 bolts back into the EGR-manifold joint with the engine in situ however. lets just say I don't get that angry too often! :)

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Hi guys. Thanks for all the replies.

My motor is the 2.0 Di. (L Series engine).

I think I'll just have to bite the bullet and fork out the cash. Most people have said that they didn't think this was too bad. Ah well, I guess I'll be 400 quid lighter by the end of the week ! :unsure:

Cheers.

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