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Sam's 3.5 Disco MEGASQUIRT START/FINISH INSTALL THREAD! :)


Mr Noisy

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Hi guys!

Joel, yep just a collection of various toggle switches there and associated piggyback holder system. What you see there, including sticker sheet, cost £98.20 :o

Anyway!

Forum was down last night when I got in from the garage but I did get around 6 hours work in...

First job was to remove the old valley gasket and clean up the mating faces again, chasing out any mud that dropped into the valley aswell.

Got the inlet manifold and fuel rail refitted, adjusted the alternator loom, and fitted the dinky dizzy (after painting the unpolished part silver to tidy it up! :D)

Also I removed the mushroom filter thing from the rocker cover that we were talking about, wiggled it out with the grips you see in the picture, the whole thing came out including the stem.

Turns out the stem is 8mm OD. I have 6mm OD breather pipes, very nice I thought. Ordered a 8mm male to 6mm female reducing stem, will trim it down a little then push that into the hole with a little adhesive and connect my breather pipe direct. Lovely.

2F691639-D915-4518-B08B-223862E9B885-121-00000009472D265D.jpg

Also decided to order a thermal gasket from ACT Products (the TVR boys) for my plenum base. There are tufnell versions on eBay at 11mm thick but they want 70 quid, this 3mm version was 20 and will be just the ticket. This, combined with a throttle body heat delete will help to keep my plenum temps much cooler. Might see about plastic/fibre washers for the plenum base bolts to minimise heat soak there also. OR it might be a complete waste of money but I have used them before with results on other cars, I think if im at this stage anyway it's worth a try.

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I then removed my oil coil from the inner wing, quite a nostalgic monkey because despite my excitement for the MS I do feel like I'm giving the good old fashioned coil and dizzy the cold shoulder. They've required a LOT of care and attention over the years them two!! :o

Removed the radiator then proceeded to remove the crank pulley to fit the VR sensor and trigger wheel.

Here's some more pics:

This is what we start with:

CB53C575-3121-4987-B3AB-58E7FDC88EE2-16039-000007AFF6C2A583.jpg

This is the VR sensor loosely fitted:

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NB the bolts are a different size. The lower one is a long bolt that retains the timing cover. The upper one is simply for attaching accessories. Regards the lower one, I was concerned that the slot in the bracket would leave the timing case open to the elements, but upon inspection the bolt was clean (not oily) so it obviously is sealed from the timing case. Regards the upper one, the 3.5 V belt engine has a support stay from the front lower alternator belt to this upper bolt. The VR sensor has to be flat against the timing cover so this bracket had to go. I did however physically inspect the alternator bracket and there was no way it was wobbling anywhere anyway without the stay so I was happy to remove it.

Here's the trigger wheel fitted:

334203D6-CD88-49FB-8186-FBD60A57EB45-16039-000007AFE1F87EBD.jpg

What a swine that was to get lined up and the bolts, argh, was getting quite Mildly miffed off, there's not enough room around the flanges to get a socket on properly!

Now then, please take a look at these next two pics.

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Has anyone got any concerns with the VR fitment/position?

I have got it lined up as best I can on the 5th tooth. However unless I space the bracket from the block with washers I cannot get it to sit centralised on the trigger wheel, in the horizontal plane.

Also, radially, it is not quite angled enough to be in line with the 5th tooth and the centre point of the trigger wheel. If you get my meaning, it is not pouting straight at the centre of the wheel, but it is as good as I can get.

I can move it generally closer though, probably about 1.5mm air gap now.

I'm not sure how critical it is. Does it need to move away from the block?

Please advise! :)

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Assuming the crank pulley is all the way home, you could always pack the cracket out with a couple of washers. Or the more correct method - doesn't Nige supply some spacer shims for the trigger wheel?

In fact why not use the shim that you have under the nuts to space the TW back a bit. Then use standard washers under the nuts.

As for air gap, you want it as close as possible, I aimed for 1mm. Obviously you will need to ensure the TW is perfectly concentric, otherwise you could end up clobbering the VR with it :)

Looks like you're getting of to a good start. If you feel so attached to the coil and dizzy, you could always leave them in place (unused like mine are).

It can give rise to some amusement when one day you have the bonnet up, and some less knowledgeable sort comes along and tells you your engine won't work because the dizzy has no HT leads attached, :lol:

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Hi guys!

First thing, yes the crank pulley is definitely home!

The trigger wheel is SUCH a bugger I'm not sure if I can handle taking them nuts and bolts out again :o plus, if I take the trigger wheel further back it will come off the centre pulley spigot. Needs to move about 2mm back I reckon!

Spacing the bracket would be more pleasurable, although perhaps more bodgerific? I reckon a couple of washers will be ideal, got some super thick ones I took off the other engine.

Regards the trueness of the trigger wheel/crank pulley, yes I will give it a spin later and see how it shapes up before I put the belts back on, will get it nice and close once I know I'm safe! Had to give up last night at midnight :o

Cheers :D

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Yonks back I had a muppet tell me the V8 (4.5) had a misfire (Lumpy Can)

I Asked him if he was good with V8s :blush: and hit bit ..."Oh Yeah Mate"

Lifted up bonnet, his face was a picture...

"Ows its run wiv no leads then ?"

"Bluetooth Ignition M8" I repied, held my phone up, pressed it and the engine stopped (Mate inside :D) then pressed phone again - and it started

"Kweel" said lost yoof :D

Yes I am a right s**t at times :rofl:

Nige

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The backs of pulleys can vary, but what is above I would say is OK, but if you added the shim from where the nuts are on it to the inside thats a 1.2mm shim so would miove wheel more central, maybe I need to add a few shims in to trigger wheel kist for the variances ?

Hmmm - I'll pop a couple of shims in the piost if you'll fit them to see ? - would be usefull to see

Nige

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Hello chaps :)

I've only got a couple mm max left on the bolts before I lose the nylon portion, and I'm concerned about losing the spigot.

I've got a good mind to obtain and fit Allen cap head bolts though because it's impossible to get a socket on the bolts on the pulley side, would be much easier that way!

I'd like to get it lined up proper mind so some shims would be handy Nige please. They'll take a while to get here of course but plenty to keep me busy in the meantime :D

Probably is close enough but seeing as we're experimenting then why not!

Cheers!

Oh and whilst I'm on, sorry to be a sod Nige but that plenum base you sent me is missing a plug. Normally I wouldn't question it but I'm finding it impossible to match the thread up!

Either:

Do you have the plug?

Does anyone know what thread it is?

I can drill out and tap the vacuum pipe fitting plug (now redundant) and fit an 1/8bsp plug which may come in handy in the future but just wondering if it was knocking about?

Or did you steal it for your engine a while back?! :P

Thanks!

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Nige, just so I don't have to tiddle about today taking the bolts out before I go to the suppliers, what length/size are the pulley bolts you supply please? I will try to get some cap head slightly longer and then I can cut down if necessary.

Will probably have to covert to metric but can't see that being a problem...?!

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Right lads, just downed tools for tonight, thought I'd have a sit down with a Coke and post this stuff up before packing up and going home, so here we go.

Firstly, took my radiator out last night and today noticed it has what appears to be a penis on it where the fins have got bent. Quite amusing, yet worrying!

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Proceeded tonight to fit more brackets.

Started with the pwm bracket, NB Nige one of the bolts was wrong. Not sure if its my 3.5 heads but the outer bolt is smaller. It's no problem cos I've got quite a few stainless in stock but thought I'd let you know for future!

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Fitted, lovely :) looks like it'll interfere with my breather a bit but not too much hopefully!

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Also the coil pack bracket, no problems here :)

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Worked out which way round to fit the pwm pipes after checking nige's build thread again, couldn't figure it out otherwise!! Gave the valve a brighten up with the wire brush first :)

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And without too much bother at all the pipes went on. The short one was worse than the long one, dont know if it was just me or if the stems were different sizes. Anyway, with a touch of grease and heat as instructed it wasn't too difficult :)

D1995293-F831-4860-95B5-2F9B77373EB2-1935-0000009F0F0FD1BA.jpg

Stripped my MAF and brushed up the end piece. I had previously bonded it into the air cleaner for a watertight seal (I will be doing again) so had to get all the sealant off first (screwdriver followed by wire brush) and then gave it a coat of silver paint for neatness. Couldn't find any suitable bolts in my pots so will have to get some tomorrow to assemble this. Could have used the original machine screws from the MAF but need nuts for the new adaptor. Think they are M5. Maybe include these in future Nige? (Sorry not trying to patronise just you asked me to make the thread so you could find any niggles! I feel a bit rude! :o)

Anyway, when I get the nuts and bolts tomorrow ill assemble this. It has a gasket but it is the grand old age of 20.5 years so it has gone a little hard, so ill smear a little hermatite around the gasket where it meets the adaptor to improve the seal :)

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Also (here I go again!) I noticed the pwm mount looks like it was designed for some kind of rubber mounting ring. Have seen this setup a few times on similar idle valves on other cars. An '89 635csi I was working on springs to mind actually, that would have had Bosch fitted and a very similar if not same idle valve. The car had been sat for 10 years and I was recommissioning it, in fact I think I had to clean the idle valve out because it was gummed.

That sounds like waffle, here's a pic. I added a couple of snug fit O-rings from stock, then when I fix the pwm with the jubilee clip (fairly loosely by the way) it will have a nice soft rubbery footing :)

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Then I took my Y pipe off. Swine as ever. But 'oh my' you must be thinking, is that a 2.5" dia Y pipe?! Yes it is, well chuffed with that exhaust. Thanks JP Exhausts of Macclesfield :D

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There's a hole in the exhaust, 24mm. I cut mine with a step drill, pretty easy. The sensor fits near the transfer case, just behind the near side mount, pointing upwards out if harms way.

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Ready to go, perfect fit:

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And now welded. Now I am BY NO MEANS a master welder, more of a bodger at best, but with a few coats managed to get a smooth, even weld around it. Had both the pipe and bush glowing so it must have been a good weld. A lovely bush (so to speak) Nige by the way, wonderfully easy to drop in and weld, so thanks for that! :)

0104EDC0-7139-4110-BC7D-899C9637D7AB-1935-0000009ED22D4837.jpg

And that concludes today's fun!

I wonder what the post will bring tomorrow?!

Today I received my fuse board and a few terminals etc to help get the dash wired up.

Cheers, Sam! :D

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Do you have the plug?

Thanks!

You can pick up the plugs (see http://forums.lr4x4....topic=77493&hl=) easily from your local land rover dealer (that's where I got mine from)

PS must get around to doing my megasquirt write up thread, I recorded lots of detailed instructions on what I did and lots of pictures (I did not record time for each task though)

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Also, what's the old pwm method??

The old method was DIY (no bracket supplied from Nige)

I made an L shape out of flat bar with holes to mount on engine (same place a Nige's by the looks of it) and hole for the cleat bolt (I would upload some pics but that seems impossible at the moment due to forum issue, but you can see the bottom half in my post about breathers)

The cable cleat I used was a size 20 http://quickbit.co.uk/electrical_cable/swa-cable/cable_cleats/swa_cable_cleats_CC20 also used for my main rad water pipes to the rear rad.

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Right I'm with ya.

Need to hear from Nige on this but I'd say the new bracket is designed for a rubber mount that perhaps has not made it to production yet!?' :D

Just that if it is what I think it is, it would work nicely as it holds the pwm loosely.

Only 1 man can tell us :P

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As there is no give in all the parts it is attached to - throttle body, plenum, cylinder head

but as the whole engine moves and most other parts are on solid mounts (basically every ancillary on the engine is a solid mount)

then I would go with a solid mount

Also the hose goes very near the throttle spring and armatures and I would not want it to move about and then rub a hole is the pipe.

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Afternoon all :)

I think tonight I will replace my exhaust, and then it's probably time to get on with running some MS wiring!! :D

Waiting on the post for other things: parcel from Nige to try to improve trigger wheel position, plenum base thermal gasket from ACT Products and the breather thingy off eBay.

Will most likely get the loom run and zip tied into position fairly quickly this evening, and then see how I feel from thereon regards what to do next!! :D

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I used a Magneti Marelli sensor because I couldn't get the Ford sensor to face the centre line of the trigger wheel (and still use those two convenient bolts) no matter how I tried to jigger around with bracketry. I've always wondered how Nigel's bracket seemed to manage it until now.

Obviously isn't terribly important with MS and EDIS

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