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Oil sump sealing...


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Right,

it's about time for my Cube to receive the 90'000 Km. service.

This time,for no particular reason (other than the nice weather)

I'm planning to pull the oil sump down while changing the oil,

give it a good cleaning,and replace the sealing.

The guy at the garage suggested to use the black paste (sealer?)

instead of the paper gasket.

Any particular care has to be taken when applying the paste?

I noticed some draw a "zig-zag" path.

Any advice?

TIA!

:)

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Nige B swears by the official Land Rover black goop - I think you can buy it from the motor factors for similar money but in a normal (EG bigger) sized mastic gun cartridge. Very handy stuff it is too!

Not built my engine yet so couldn't say how well it works on the sump :unsure:

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Hi Michele,

Make sure you degrease all surfaces really well with a proper degreaser, cellulose thinners or anything else that doesn't leave a residue. A single straight line in the middle is sufficient, with a small circle around each bolt hole too. As Tony said, you need to let it dry properly after bolting the sump back on for best results. I suggest a minimum of overnight before refilling with oil and starting the engine.

Regards, Diff

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Just done mine on the new engine, along with my trusty garage owner who lets me work with him - I do not have the facilities time or know how to do it all alone.

The main thing was getting the two surfaces clean, de-greased and dry before starting with the new sealer. We did a simple one line with a circle around each hole. The trick is getting it on in one clean sweep so as not to smudge the bead. We did it with two people - while I held the pan about 5 mm below the engine my M8 put in 4 bolts one at each corner and the we left the sump hanging on those and placed all the other bolts and then did up the opposite ones leaving the final tightening till last and then doing that bit by bit so as to get a nice even seal.

Name of the game is patience patience.

Mine, 2K later is nice and dry !!! :D:D

Adam

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had a heck of a job removing the sump pan on catflap because it's glued on by RTV sealant. I cleaned it all off and used a series paper gasket too. The better quality ones are quite thick.

Don't know about leaks yet as I haven't got round to starting the engine yet!

Les. :)

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Job done!

2 times...

(DOH!)

:rolleyes:

Sump off,lot of thinner,went almost as new.

Sealer out,but-guess what?-more than a half had dried out.

I tried to apply it as best as I could,then re-fitted the sump.

Fresh oil in.

New filter.

Off for the weekend,checked the pan out the day before and it leaked (damn).

Oil out again,sump down,brand new paste and here we go again.

Now perfect,everything is clean and dry.

B)

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Is a paper gasket available fo rthe TDi?

Not sure about the TDi but my money is on the paper gasket...we smeer them with something called

Permatex II, black and sticky but sets up rubbery............. can you Lads get it over there....?

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Permatex II, black and sticky but sets up rubbery............. can you Lads get it over there....?

Sounds the same as RTV sealant to me. Very similar to silicone, but it seems to me to be more runny and sets quicker too. If I'm fitting a new gasket to a pitted surface I put an additional thin layer of RTV sealant on it as well, just to be sure.

Les. :)

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