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Hi guys after some help again from all you lot with the knowledge please.........Ok 1990 110 was originally a TD ....spent ages doing her all up and lots £ as some of you know and have some of the dreaded corrosion back ....

First on the windscreen frame .....so what screen frames will fit my landy 200tdi, 300tdi, td5 one ?????

Second just what people would choose for a new door (had all new genuine ones 7 years ago and yes believe it or not have some corrosion we are on about tiny pin pricks just one or two but its on its way isn't it)

Steel frame that's been galvanized and the alli skin then marine bonded onto it (Ash tree land rovers have one of these all ready from where the gate hit a door and didn't want filler in my landy so new door)

One of the new all steel doors so steel skin steel frame

Or a steel door that's been galvanized ...the skin and frame ...but what sort of paint finish could you get on it...

The main one being what screen frame at the mo as the doors you cant even see it its so small

Thanks there

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1 - Frame assembly-windscreen
Standard / County
To (V) YA 181358
MUC2594 [ Standard / County ]
414.23 € /each - (MUC2594)
From (V) YA 181359
AUH710010 [ Standard / County ]
647.01 € /each - (LR055317)
90 SV

ALR5705 [ 90 SV ]

Yours will probably take the earlier variety

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Yes,

Hay Hi Western you come to my rescure loads over the last six years with the Landy so they all fit ....are the....Screen glass,seal, roof fixings and hinges all interchangeable ?

All interchangeable :i-m_so_happy: headliner fixings might be slightly different locations & 300tdi on front interior light is above the rear view mirror whereas on earlier vehicles it's behind the front seats.

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The latest puma doors are the best especially with the very latest lower door seal.

I've had all sorts over the years and now have three sets of puma doors. The water drains actually work and they are not made of channel which just traps water. One of mine got knocked on the edge down to bare metal two years ago and there is no rust, and I live next to the sea.

They sound solid when they are shut unlike the older type which always rattled even from new.

Downside is they are expensive, I've generally paid £250 - £300 per door for just bare doors.

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Thanks there that sounds very good and again that's cheaper than Ash tree which was £550 odd per door....again is every thing interchangeable ???.......

( got a new windscreen frame today £80 with P&P immaculate clean corrosion wise they recon will see when it arrives)

OK just phoned LR and the puma door number is LRO29310 and the seal LRO29309 ...so there is deff a different door seal to the old standard door any one know why ??? Don't tell me I finally not going to have that force 9 gale throw my doors. seals......and as mentioned will all my door internals channels etc change over ?????

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The £250 - £300 per door has been second hand prices for bare doors from breakers from Equicar or the like, a couple have had minor dents etc that can be eased out easily as they are steel not alloy skins. I did buy one for £80 which was really bashed in but purchased a new steel skin from SP Landrovers and reskinned it.

The older door parts do all fit, although you have to make a bracket up to hold the inner plate which houses the winder mechanism etc, and drill one M6 hole in the inner door frame fro the bracket (not noticable) I made up a batch of brackets with spot welded reinforcement as I had six to do! If they aren't reinforced with a decent bracket the top rail where the door lock is can break so it is worth doing properly.

The lower seal on the door bottom has changed in the past year or two, the first two sets of Puma doors I bought had the rivetted seal which runs along the lower edge. The latest pair have a different seal which is much larger and is profiled to fit around the curve of the inner door frame.

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Great thanks for that

On the brand new gen LR doors I fitted 8 years ago (the dealership done me new doors for £200 each with VAT) On that inner plate only 3 bolts not the 4 would fit using my old plates from my TD........That lower seal isn't a problem for me to change as when it was re built last time (what a joke having to do it again ) That metal lip the seal sits against had rusted/rotted ....so using a sharp chisel I cut threw the spot welds and had stainless steel ones made ...the seal and lip are riveted on together........

So all sounding good so far apart from the fact I'm having to or will do in the next five years ...get new doors yet again......Lucky I love the dam thing

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