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wibbly wobbly speedo


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Ralph, you only use the top socket, the lower connects to the fuel gauge as the damping circuitry for it is in the speedo. I have a wiring diagram, pm me your email and I'll mail them to you when I get up :)

Mo

Cheers, PM with e.mail address heading your way :D

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All the e.mail info has been saved/printed out, when I actually come to fit this speedo & transducer, I'll add some photo's & info about wiring runs/lengths/connection. :D should be a good thread for the tech archive then.

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You need the Td5 speedo & the transducer that fits onto the speedo drive at the transfer box [replaces the existing cable to your existing speedo] & make up a wiring harness to connect it to earth/power/signal from transducer.

hopefully I'll be doing this very soon [within the next 2 to 3 weeks].

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Guest diesel_jim

I'll be doing mine sometime in the future too, but i'm now going to build a 110 station wagon (out of parts of my 90....) so will incorporate the speedo and other Td5 mods into it (it's going to be a 2.8 Tdi eventually.. :rolleyes: )

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

I Read the RAVE and make a pin-out for the speedo, here it's:

C1060.jpg

Attention that in speedo connectios are mirrored! :blink:

Speedometer-back.jpg

Hope this help

I do mine when I find the transducer.

Does the TD5 TRansducer fit's the 200tdi (DEF) LT380 transfer box? do I need anithing else?

Imperadeiro

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Yes, the transducer will fit the existing speedo drive gear end at the transfer box, I need to get one as well then I can fit my new speedo, just remove the existing drive cable & fit the transducer YBE100530, bolt FS106201M, washer WA106041L & 'O' ring seal 571665.

I've left a reply in the other thread too :D

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Guest diesel_jim

OK, just been playing for an hour making myself look busy at work, and got my Td5 dash all set up and working on the workbench! :lol:

If you just want to use the td5 electronic speedo, the wire colours are: (for non-electronic literate folk, using traced wires there will be two colours, eg blue/brown... this means a Blue wire, with a brown trace. or yellow/white... yellow wire with white trace... the trace is just a second colour in the plastic covering so you can see which one is which)

Large Brown/blue and purple/brown. these need a permanent 12v supply, each with it's own 5amp fuse (the fuse ratings are what Td5 defenders have). these supply the clock and the speedo head (the speedo head has 2 12v permanent supplies)

a largish white/green is the switched (ignition) feed. this comes off of position 2 of the key switch, and needs a 10 amp fuse. this supplies the speedo head to turn it "on", and also the guages (water temp and fuel level, if you're using those)

the speedo transducer (the bit that bolts to the transfer box) has 3 connections...

pin 1,2, & 3

pin 1 this needs to go to the white/green ignition switched live

pin 2 goes to a suitable earth point

pin 3 connects to the black/red wire that comes out of the back of the speedo head.

for this plug, i used one of the 3 pin plugs off of the post 300Tdi tail ights (the neat moulded ones) and just soldered on a loom all taped up, ready to feed up to the dash area.

If you've got a complete Td5 dash pod,(leave the original Td5 loom in place!!) with the temp warning guage and fuel level, then you can use the following wires also:

light green/blue goes to the engine coolant sensor, then (through the casing of the engine block) to earth, this looks like a linear gauge, so i think it'll work fine with a Tdi type sender unit (as opposed to being controlled by the ECU)

there are 2 wires for the fuel level guage. grey/black and green/black. amazingly, these are the same colours that LR have used on the fuel level senders for years! these both need to be connected to two of the terminals on the fuel tank level sender unit, the grey/black one is earth, the green/black has positive feed on it.

the fuel guage itself it damped by some of the electronics in the speedo head. this means that when you go around a bend, the needle on the guage doesn't wave around like a wavey thing in the wind. the speedo head also controls the "low fuel" warning light, which is pretty handy, and this light is fed from a white/orange wire out of the speedo head. so if you take this wire to a suitable bulb or 12v LED, then to earth, whenever the fuel level drops (to about the orange section on the Td5 fuel guage) the light will illuminate. tidy eh?

there are two other wires from the speedo head, a pink and yellow/pink.

the pink is connected to the alarm warning LED in the middle of the face of the speedo. if you take this wire to earth, it'll illuminate (as long as the permanant 12v is connected). the yellow/pink goes off to the alarm ECU (the Td5 alarm) but i discovered that if you connect this yellow/pink to the solid pink, the alarm LED will light up, so you might be able to utilise an output of your existing alarm module to switch these two cables together when the alarm is "armed" to light (or as most alarms have a N/O switched immobiliser circuit, you could use either a double pole relay to allow the LED to have an earth supply when the alarm is armed, or build a NOT gate to reverse the feed to the LED... anyway, thats a bit heavy going for just a speedo change thread!)

Oh... the orange/red lead is for the panel light illumination.

Now.... to crack on with the Td5 warning lamp module... :ph34r::unsure::unsure:

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Jamie, question - Does the alarm module do the flashing for the alarm led or is the flashing bit in the speedo already or does the led just illuminate without flashing ?

Secondly, I suspect that the seond permanent live (9 on Imperadeiro's picture, 3rd row down) may be the one that saves the trip mileage and the decimal place on the main mileage as neither get saved in either of my speedos (when I switch off the ignition) and I'm only using the permanent live in the second row. We'll see on Saturday :)

Mo

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Guest diesel_jim
Jamie, question - Does the alarm module do the flashing for the alarm led or is the flashing bit in the speedo already or does the led just illuminate without flashing ?

The LED in the speedo head is just a plain standard non flashing LED. the alarm ECU does th flashy thing, as when i had my Td5 (and other will testify), when you open a door, the LED illuminates, when you arm the alarm it stays solid for a period of time, then starts flashing when the alarm is fully armed, and if the alarm has been activated, when you get back in, it's flashing in double quick time.

(From Western) & can the led be made to flash, when no alarm/immobilser is fitted

Yes, you just need a little 555 type timer circuit, i made one a while ago for a forum member, i'll knock you one up if you want Ralph. i've got to work on the design of it though... because the last one i made needed 12v to make it flash. but when you turn the ignition "off" you really want a 12v supply to be there to make it work... so either a NOT gate or use a two pole spotlight relay... it's just that the relay will be energised all the time your ignition is "on"... not a bad thing i suppose, as the SPIDER relays are always energised, as are some of the other ignition relays.

Secondly, I suspect that the seond permanent live (9 on Imperadeiro's picture, 3rd row down) may be the one that saves the trip mileage and the decimal place on the main mileage as neither get saved in either of my speedos (when I switch off the ignition) and I'm only using the permanent live in the second row. We'll see on Saturday :)

Mo

Yes, i think you'll need both to keep the battery charged up. when i got my speedo it had 0 miles on it. i played with it on the workbench for a bit, put about 200 miles on it, then when i unplugged it overnight, it reset back to 0. i tried it in my Td5 for a while (plugged into the proper loom) and it seemed to charge the battery properly, as it now keeps the last milage for ages (i've not powered the speedo up for about 3 months and it still had the last milage on it) so i suspect once you wire it up properly, the in built battery will charge and keep the milage on... otherwise they're be cr&p for clocking the milage!! :lol::lol:

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Yes, you just need a little 555 type timer circuit, i made one a while ago for a forum member, i'll knock you one up if you want Ralph. i've got to work on the design of it though... because the last one i made needed 12v to make it flash. but when you turn the ignition "off" you really want a 12v supply to be there to make it work... so either a NOT gate or use a two pole spotlight relay... it's just that the relay will be energised all the time your ignition is "on"... not a bad thing i suppose, as the SPIDER relays are always energised, as are some of the other ignition relays.

Cheers Jamie, I'll leave the led flash for a bit until the speedo is in & fully working

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curses, missed a speedo on ebay on sunday because i forgot about it. went for £30 which doesn't seem so bad and the housing for £7.70. (not sure how much the warning lights went for)

aaaanyway further little question. what is the makeup of the illuminated heater controls? is it just a hole with a translucent cover and the bulb mounted behind? i like the idea, but i wonder if its worth the bother of having to update the warning lights at the same time and if it might be possible just to cut the approriate holes and get the covers. Of course that then raises the question of do land rover just sell it as a complete unit.

thanks

callum

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I got the warning lights Callum, for the plugs :) If you need a warning light unit I have a couple of spares.

The illuminated controls are just that, a bulb each side shining through translucent panels.

Another forum member got the speedo.

Mo

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  • 2 weeks later...
Update :- I have the TD5 warning lamp module wired up in the vehicle and working :) Piece of cake in the end, providing you have the plugs :)

Mo

31-07-07_1903.jpg

nice work, but come on, let us see the business end of those warning lights.

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There's nothing to see Callum, 2 wired plugs going to the old harness and a soldered joint on each wire. Which wire goes to where is no mystery, some are still the same colour and the others are easily worked out using a wiring diagram for your current landy and the TD5 wiring diagram :)

Make sure that you get the plugs for the warning lamp module with it, it will be a nightmare without them.

I've finished wiring up the rest of the TD5 dash now and it all works except that the temp gauge reads very low. I'll try a TD5 sender and see what happens.

Pics tomorrow.

Mo

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There's nothing to see Callum, 2 wired plugs going to the old harness and a soldered joint on each wire. Which wire goes to where is no mystery, some are still the same colour and the others are easily worked out using a wiring diagram for your current landy and the TD5 wiring diagram :)

Make sure that you get the plugs for the warning lamp module with it, it will be a nightmare without them.

I've finished wiring up the rest of the TD5 dash now and it all works except that the temp gauge reads very low. I'll try a TD5 sender and see what happens.

Pics tomorrow.

Mo

ahh, so you used the loom, there was talk earlier of hooking straight up to the bulbs themselves.

i think your dodgy temp gauge means its time for you to get youself a vdo gauge so you can get some real real and accurate readings. you'll also now be able to buy from the 'vision' range which are lit through like the td5 stuff rather than lit round the edge.

look forward to seeing it done, although i'd like to hazard a guess it wont be too dissimilar from taking a glance in to a normal td5.

oh, have you got the fuel gauge working ok?

callum

(i'll keep searching for an instrument pod, someday ishall find it, but for now i am still undersealing, what a horrible job. i look forward to some clean electrical work)

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