rrr47 Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Just did a deal for some new jump leads with an Anderson connector. Their brilliant. Half a metre of cable, connector, then 15 foot of jump leads!!! Thought my 31 year old jump leads at 8 foot were long, with these I won't have to worry about parking the Rangie as close as possible for a jump. Looking to ask fellow members for ideas on how to mount them. Should I use the rust hole in the bonnet for access? Is it wise to have the connector visible? Any ideas or suggestions much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 I had one mounted on the front of the seat box on my 110 and the tomcat it was mounted under the rear roof. I would mount it under the bonnet on the slam panel on a rangie and it would be worth getting the proper rubber cover for it. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 I've mounted on the front of the seat box before now and currently have an Anderson connector on my front cross member. (Isolator in the front of the passenger seatbox) I also have one behind the passenger seat, on the lower section of the dog guard that I use for my aux battery when touring. Again isolated when not in use but accessible from inside the truck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I have done this too. Bought a cheap set of 5 metre long 1200amp jump cables and 3 anderson plugs, one mount, 3 rubber boots and a handle. Came to £35 ish all in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 You must have series door as I'm sure you can't put it there on mine. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I mounted mine under the bonnet, on the left hand inner wing, and near the front. This was on a Defender though. The logic was a straight run from the battery, and close to the front to maximise usable jump lead length. I find I am more likely to nose up to the other vehicle than come alongside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I have one at the front and one at the back, on my old truck it was at the side and a right pain to get alongside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 My 88 has one inside the seatbpx just poking out the side, and I've also wired in one bolted to the top of the wheelbox just inside the back door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Mine is just inside the back door on the left on the side of the inner wheel arch. Due to the 'tolerance' under the door I can use it to power my electric tipping trailer from there even with the door closed People do look at you oddly when you reverse up to them to do a jump start though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 You must have series door as I'm sure you can't put it there on mine. Mike Yeah its a series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 I had one on the rear crossmember of my old truck - never used it though ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrr47 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 I have managed in-between the rain to fit the Anderson connector to the Rangie today. I have taken the suggestions to mount it on the slam panel, and in such a way that the bonnet needs only to be popped, not fully open. (Had a couple of bad experiences when jump starting someone in windy weather and bonnets fully up). Plus the battery terminal wires dictated where the said connector could be. Just need a cover now to keep the rain and dirt out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 I had one on the rear crossmember of my old truck - never used it though ! Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it as they say.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 I have managed in-between the rain to fit the Anderson connector to the Rangie today. I have taken the suggestions to mount it on the slam panel, and in such a way that the bonnet needs only to be popped, not fully open. (Had a couple of bad experiences when jump starting someone in windy weather and bonnets fully up). Plus the battery terminal wires dictated where the said connector could be. Just need a cover now to keep the rain and dirt out. Im clearly missing something here, but wheres the advantage of having an anderson on the slam panel? The bloody battery is just behind it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrr47 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 I have to agree, but I did a deal for a watch I had been trying to sell for years, these leads were offered with money and so the set was what it is. The terminal leads are only half a metre, something I would of not ordered, but the jump leads are 15 foot, so no trying to get as close as possible any more as with my old jump leads. I don't have to raise the bonnet, just release the latch and access the connector. But the most important reason why, is because I had something new and wanted to fit them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Fair enough guvnor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 When planning all this *please* think about what can happen in a crash. If you run the unfused +ve through a metal panel at the very least have an isolator switch so its disconnected when not in use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 When planning all this *please* think about what can happen in a crash. If you run the unfused +ve through a metal panel at the very least have an isolator switch so its disconnected when not in use. Must admit, that thought had never actually crossed my mind Now off to re-arrange my winch cables and fit the bloody isolator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 When planning all this *please* think about what can happen in a crash. If you run the unfused +ve through a metal panel at the very least have an isolator switch so its disconnected when not in use. With the best will in the world whilst what your saying is good practice land rover never worried about it. ? Though I'm planning to put a mega fuse (400 amp) in my winch wiring.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrr47 Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Good advice GW8IZR, will mount isolator somewhere near the expansion tank. Any suggestions always welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heath robinson Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Where did you get these? I've been looking at doing this recently, but for that money I'll just buy the kit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrr47 Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 I did a deal for mine on a watch, but here is the same thing. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5m-Jump-Leads-Durite-Anderson-Connector-Battery-Booster-/360959137440?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item540ad756a0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Just get these.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jump-Leads-Starter-Battery-Booster-Cables-1200amp-6m-20ft-Long-Heavy-Duty-/251856241803?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3aa3cd448b Some of these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=anderson+plug&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xanderson+plug+175.TRS0&_nkw=anderson+plug+175&ghostText=&_sacat=0 And do what I did saves you loads, and gives you a super long set of standard jump leads, and a set of Anderson jump leads. With enough cabling to make a run to your battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 That's what I did . I actually cut the ends off about a foot from the end, and then fitted the remains with a connector as well. I can use them as normal jump leads then, should the need ever arise...though it hasn't ever yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heath robinson Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Does there not seem to be a slight disparity between the 1200A cable and the 175A connector? I know that you shouldn't be actually starting the other vehicle off yours, rather charging their battery for them to start from, but am I over-thinking it? Would I want a bigger anderson to be sure? I suppose that the croc clips are the weak link, I don't recall seeing any that are rated much over 150A, and even then you'd struggle to get them to grip onto a terminal well enough to flow much above that current anyway, so maybe 175A would suffice. Certainly a damn sight cheaper than the 350 ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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