Jump to content

series 3 engine conversion


IHenson

Recommended Posts

I think in fairness the OP has decided on a diesel as he is fed up with the fuel economy of the 2.25 petrol already in it. So I guess it's a TDI of some description for the economy if he wants to stick with a Land Rover engine.....

Would be easier to fit a 200tdi than a 300tdi, DiscoMikey has beed running one for a while now..... and has just fitted it in a new chassis as well so would be a good man to pick brains of about it :)

EDIT: this was posted at the same time as Tuko's post so is a bit out of step

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For real haulage its got to be diesel.

mm yes. and EJparrot. its just a bit harder to fit a standard cooler with the series rad, thats why most poeple i know do it the disco rad way. i have managed to fit a series rad with a intercooler in a similar fashion to how i do it with the disco radiator, but it had to go in at a bit of an angle and we hat to trm one of the outlets a bit.

and you do back up my previous comment about not many poeple being stupid enough to want the extra power that intercooler and tuning to the gullets like i did.

edit: my excuse for the need for power is that i very regularly tow close to my weight limit. i am a farmer and a building labourer as well as a mechanic and student haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also fitted a 200 with a Series rad and 300 intercooler, without majorly butchering the front panel. My 109 SW has the disco rad fitted in the Series position, with a 300 intercooler slipped in front on the n/s, my project 109 SW when I get moving on it has a full width TD5 intercooler going in in front of the disco rad, mounted series style.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The TD4, I think will make an exceptional engine in a series, I am just a little unsure on the wiring side, but it can't be that complex?

Through the years I've found the best engine (it's had two turbodiesels and two petrols) for my Series is the 2ltr petrol. With the compression up to something sensible, SU carb and a few other trick bits set up properly with a bit of time and I am enjoying the vehicle more than ever. Personnal opinion of course but don't write off a few cheap and simple modifications, that are easier than swapping the entire engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not forgetting that the TD4 engine was used in the BMW x18d and x20d models in inline format.... = bellhousing and gearbox sorted.

Available in different stages of tune, from 114BHP right up to 160BHP -these are pretty quick in a 120d ;)

Would be an interesting project for sure, and bound to reap a lot of fuel savings in the long run.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

edit: my excuse for the need for power is that i very regularly tow close to my weight limit. i am a farmer and a building labourer as well as a mechanic and student haha.

While I normally hold the view that standard Series III brakes are perfectly adequate for vehicles with V8 or Tdi transplants, in your case I'd recommend having something more powerful, preferably discs - your speed and weight combination will give you much greater inertia than most of us have to deal with, and while standard drums are amply capable of stopping a half-laden Series from 70mph or a heavily laden Series from a lower speed, I think they might struggle at max weight with a heavy trailer behind at the raised speeds a Tdi will allow at that weight. While, in theory, the standard brakes should have been designed for this weight at 70mph on downhill sections of motorway, in practice you'll be at 60mph+much more often than the original engineers anticipated.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a thread on here. working on a disk brake conversion using standard coiler hubs and cut and shut shafts. its all worked out im just awaiting funds to get the 2 parts i need proffesionally machined, or i might be able to do it at uni. then its just telling the insurance and seeing what they do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd check with the insurers before modifying it as some insurers will just void the policy, other may give huge premium increases. If you can't get a sensible response from your insurers, try Flux - they seem very pragmatic about modifications. If they're not happy, then Stage 1/ 1-Ton brakes would be a good alternative as they would still constitute "standard" 109 brakes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy