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My series 3 200TDI


rjblank

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Hi rjblank,

I am just about to weld in my engines chassis mounts and need abit of advice/assurance.

I am have roughly setup my angle iron brackets and am a little concerned about the different height of chassis mounts. (The drivers side being higher than the passengers).

As i have both gearbox and engine swinging i have no real alignment so am going in blind!

Just wondering if you had your engine mounts at different heights? I cant really tell from your pics.

I would have thought they would be made level? Maybe they should be be and due to the weight offset of the gearbox/transferbox would then make the engine swing straight. Just trying to come up with some explanation.

(I have my engine aligned with the engine on blocks taking most of the weight).

I dont want to weld in mounts and then find that when i swing gearbox/tranferbox the engine sits unlevel due to me putting engine mounts in unleveled.

I have included pics. (The engine rubber bolt holes need slight adjustment due to brackets are not as wide as standard)

My crankbolt now measures 14 1/4 from the drivers side. Can you measure yours? I am unable to line up with the crankhandle hole as i dont have one! My LR is running on a designa chassis.

I look forward to your thoughts and findings.

Cheers.

Hi Monster,

My motor mounts are also not at the same level. I thought this was strange, but that's the way it works out. I measured my engine side to side as it sits in the frame. On the Left side, 11 inches from the inside of the frame rail to the center of the crank bolt. On the right side, there is 14 1/4 inches from the inside of the frame rail to the center of the crank bolt. These are the same measurements you have.

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Monster,

I've looked at your pics close up as well. Your mounts look to be at a similar level to mine. As long as the engine and gearbox/transfer box are square in the chassis you should be fine. Others have sucessfully used alternate gearbox/transfer boxes in the series trucks and relocated the engines fore and aft in the chassis, with no problems. Yours looks good so far. :)

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  • 5 weeks later...
Monster,

I've looked at your pics close up as well. Your mounts look to be at a similar level to mine. As long as the engine and gearbox/transfer box are square in the chassis you should be fine. Others have sucessfully used alternate gearbox/transfer boxes in the series trucks and relocated the engines fore and aft in the chassis, with no problems. Yours looks good so far. :)

Hi RJ,

Work continuing on my conversion! Just thinking of a few things.

I see you are using the standard radiator. Is this fine for service? Are you not planning to fit some sort of expansion bottle?

If i do decide to go to the series radiator route i would like to include some sort of expansion bottle. Any ideas?

Also how are you monitoring engine water temperature? I would have thought the the discovery sensor is not compatible with the series clocks.(AFAIK).

My 3 in 1 clock also has a oil temperature gauge that i dont use but hope to wire up. Do you know what sensor goes with this?

Havent really found much on the web.

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Hi RJ,

Work continuing on my conversion! Just thinking of a few things.

I see you are using the standard radiator. Is this fine for service? Are you not planning to fit some sort of expansion bottle?

If i do decide to go to the series radiator route i would like to include some sort of expansion bottle. Any ideas?

Also how are you monitoring engine water temperature? I would have thought the the discovery sensor is not compatible with the series clocks.(AFAIK).

My 3 in 1 clock also has a oil temperature gauge that i dont use but hope to wire up. Do you know what sensor goes with this?

Havent really found much on the web.

Hi Monster,

The series radiator works very well. I have mounted the factory series expansion bottle to the other side of the radiator. I have included a pic. you can see it mounted to the right side of the pic. I used an adapter for the series temp sending unit and the series temp guage.

On your oil temp guage, you would be best using a sender that is matched for that guage. Where did the cluster come from? Disco or aftermarket?

post-6141-1219938392_thumb.jpg

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I have also read that the TD5 flange is the same bolt pattern.

Yes, but that is where the similarities end, Ray.

The flange is not movable (welded on) plus the holes are set in a different location compared to the bolt placement on the 200/300Tdi exhaust manifolds, if you were going to try to use the entire pipe without cutting it. Also the OD of the down pipe is 63.6mm (2½"), it's an ½" too big.

I have a Td5 down pipe that I tried to use for my new exhaust and it's simply too big and won't work.

Todd.

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Yes, but that is where the similarities end, Ray.

The flange is not movable (welded on) plus the holes are set in a different location compared to the bolt placement on the 200/300Tdi exhaust manifolds, if you were going to try to use the entire pipe without cutting it. Also the OD of the down pipe is 63.6mm (2½"), it's an ½" too big.

I have a Td5 down pipe that I tried to use for my new exhaust and it's simply too big and won't work.

Todd.

Todd,

Sorry, I didn't intend to mislead that the TD5 pipe would work, but the flange is the proper shape and hole pattern. The 300TDI pipe is also a different shape, but the flange bolts on to the 200TDI Turbo. The 200TDi comes with a cast downpipe that is simply a pain to try to weld to.

I cut the flange from the pipe and welded my own pipe to it. It worked out for me since I used 2 1/2 inch pipe for the exhaust. Since you used the 300TDI in your truck, I would have thought that the Defender 300TDI pipe would have worked for your application. Also, the bigger pipe will help keep the exhaust temeratures down and help the longevity of the turbo.

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Nice work.

Im gonna start a similar project this winter with a 200TDi into a 109" and im gonna try to fit the 380 gearbox aswell as the axles and PAS unit

That should be a great install. I'll be looking forward to seeing pictures.

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  • 1 year later...

I'm up to convert my seires 3 coiled 88" already with power steering and also currently fitted with a bloody toyota.. I'm thinking of putting a 200tdi from a disco and an lt77 from a defender. Now I know it's quite long maybe to explain but can anyone tell me like how to locate the position for the engine to be mounted like the steps because I read that the the prop shafts come shorter with the lt77 then on the engine side the 200tdi turbo ends up in the chassis and if you don't take care the front diff can easily end up in your crank pulley.. If anyone could explain to me how to fix those 3 things I would really appriciate :D

thanks,

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Turbo only fouls chassis rail on a 109 - Ive got an TDi 88" so I know...

Theres a discussion running on here somewhere, where a member has moved the engine forward to accomodate an LT, and still had to shorten the rear prop - In all honesty I'd go for shorter props, I have experience of an 88 on coils with an LT and the engine in the normal place - it has a very short prop yes but its great offroad.

My front diff comes nowhere near my crank pulley, theres a good 3" clearance when my axle goes to full height - Im on the standard Series chassis mounts.

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  • 2 weeks later...

hi guys it's now a year that my lightweight is fitted with a disco tdi200 and an lt77 from a defender

i used standard prop shaft from defender and series to avoid fitting and for the engine i used disco mounts like monster to fit the engine higher and for the gearbox i fabricate 2 brackets to reove the crossmember

here are some pics of when i was fitting the engine

Picture007.jpg

Picture002.jpg

james

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it comes very high and i had to make a tunnel to fit but i'm happy with the set up

i have seat from a hyundai exel or accent and from oppinion it's better than landy seats because they give you more view

i have to take some pics of the finished job to show you

james

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Well I am still 'slooowly' tackling the 200tdi install in my ex-mili 109 1 tonne along with a full chassis up rebuild. 200tdi with 300tdi manifold and turbo; no intercooler (at mo); Series rad; Non Disco oil cooler; Series box; 3.5 diffs; heated windscreen; handbag storage.....

P1010092.JPG

So for pics and the bog see --> http://pjboomer/blogspot.com

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  • 1 year later...

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