ajh Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 I just replaced both rotors (vented) and the right hand front caliper, and a new set of pads. Yesterday the left front clamped down on the rotor after it warmed and dragged until it stopped the vehicle. I found a set of channel locks, pulled the pads back enough to limp home then removed all pistons, cleaned and re-assembled things and bled. Today, after about the same 30min of driving the new caliper on the right did the same, more gradually it seems but the rotor went red-hot. Any configuration of pads/calipers/rotors that might cause something like this? I don't see a real cause. The only strange thing was the brake pedal feel, it was soft but braked then stiff about half-way down. I was going to look into it today but this happened before I could. I need to drive in the morning; so any ideas would be very helpful. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 LR017952G SFP000260 SEB500460 Were the parts used. Is there a conflict there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Did you clamp the flexi pipe at any point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 No, let them drain and bled after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Tested both calipers, bleed open the new one pushes back totally freely and that is the one where the disc heated red. The only anomaly is that there are grooves cut into the rotor surface now and there was a fair bit of road dirt buildup on the inside of the rim (cleaned now) so there's a chance I guess that some broke off and got between the rotor and pad, then when applied they pressed unevenly and locked? The left side pushed back but takes about 2-3x the force, still within reasonable though I think (I'll replace it asap but most orders take 3-4 days to arrive here). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Did you use OEM calipers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Yes, after issues with the pattern ones leaking from the cross-tube (which I discovered was a long metal tube with long washer and installed incorrectly at manufacture, so not even repairable). My current theory is somehow crud got between the pad and the rotor prior to bleeding so the pad was offset.... really a strange coincidence though considering the difficulties on the other side the day before but not unheard of I suspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Once had a very slight kink in a brake pipe (copper/cunifer can't remember which) which caused exactly the same symptoms, was hardly noticeable to the eye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 So far no problems today; however the pedal feel is still not right. Ordered a new LH caliper to get the two balanced and another set of pads (will keep the overheated ones as emergency backups). I'll replace both direct hardlines on the swivel when I change them over (hopefully tomorrow depending on FedEx). I'll bleed the rears as well as I haven't done that and it may be contributing to the very odd pedal feel. I think I need to add a manual proportioning valve asap as well, the rears don't seem to get as much clamping power as you'd expect post drum to disc conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 I've done a rear disc to drum conversion on my 110, not had any braking problems, front has the same calipers/discs [rotors] as you noted above, 110 hardtop not station wagon has a brake proportioning valve anyway to stop the rear brakes locking before the fronts, your website link is not working either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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