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ECU location and MS install in RRC


Cheesy

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OK, a slightly less technical post than most in this section but I need to decide on where to put MS, relays and fuses in a 89 RRC so I can start building a loom. I dont particularly like the standard location, where have other people mounted theirs?

A bit of background on it, I bought it not going with a dead ignitor which was an easy fix with a Jaycar kit I had leftover from my Landrover, the hidden rust was a bit harder.... but all done now. Aparently it has been stroked from 3.5 to something and is still running a compromised flapper system, ie the afm has been played with and various resistors added to the coolant sender.

Any way I also have a MS2 I built for the landy (4.1l Falcon l6) which is still unfinished in the drive way. The plan for the install is roughly as follows:

Hyundai coolant sensor

Hyundai air temp sensor (plastic cage and is pushed into a rubber grommet)

Hyundai coils, 2 sets which now look just like a GEMs coil pack, these are also the same as many Mitsubishi ones so very common here (NZ), these will probably be driven by 4 BIP373s

Bosch 3 wire idle control valve (also off a Hyundai... under rated cars these)

235cc 4 hole injectors

For the crank sensor I will either use a 3.8 v6 hall sensor or a more standard VR setup.

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I think if it was me, i'd have he ecu, relays and the majority of the wiring run to under the insert of the cubby box. I think the insert is held in by two little screws and i'm sure under that is enough room for the ecu and relays. I'm pretty confident there is power, ignition etc in there. I would leave the edis module under the bonnet.

but its a very personal choice where you want it all i guess :)

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Mine's a Vogue SE, so has the vent to the right of the steering wheel, I managed to mount mine in there upside down, easy access for plugging the serial lead in by removing the vent -I taped off the ventilation tube as hardly important there :)

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ecu and relay board mounted inside a waterproof box under the dash on the passenger side

basially where the pedals would be if you like

just fine and nice and easy to remove the bungee cord, drop the box onto the footwell floor and open it up for service

i chopped a serial cable in half, fed it through one of the glands and soldered it all back up again, so that i can plug the ecu in without needing to be inside the box, just in case i want to do some tuning in a river etc :P

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I ended up pulling out the dash and mounting it under the little cover in the middle, I had to cut and weld a plate into the bit out of the dash, the ECU clips into place.

IMG_3153_zpsf80d35d3.jpg

IMG_3154_zps1a1a0c4d.jpg

I also got a bit done on a proper fuel rail so I can replace those crappy old cracked hoses

IMG_3155_zps8d9532a7.jpg

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Very neat - although you can just use the later Hotwire fuel rail & injectors.

there was also another reason for making one, the injectors I have are shorter than the older metal body style so I wasnt sure if the 3.9 rail would seal properly with the top of the injectors being further apart

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Probably very sensible, and also explains why you can now afford to by another Rover and MS it :)

Well I have had one just not done anything with it, the black 88 has been in storage for a few years, it even had to give up a few bits to get the range rover up and going

IMG_2750_zps760e7a35.jpg

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I had mine installed in a standard Hotwire ECU case - nice and tidy as it slotted onto the standard clip* and used the standard connector on the loom. That did mean it was still in the standard under seat location, though, which I was never that happy about even though I never got it wet.

What about top centre of the dash? About the least vulnerable place available, and easy enough to arrange access hidden by the rubber mat in the tray (if my memory serves me correctly...). It's all a bit academic if you don't move everything else (relays, fuses, ABS ECU, etc) as well, though.

Soft dash has the ECU behind a panel in the outer side of one of the foot wells, so that's a possibility too.

* - well, it would have done if I'd ever trimmed the clip to make room for the extra cable that exited at the rear of the case (think it was for the EDIS).

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there was also another reason for making one, the injectors I have are shorter than the older metal body style so I wasnt sure if the 3.9 rail would seal properly with the top of the injectors being further apart

Then you could've used the fuel rail from a Bosch P38.

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A bit more done, wiring loom mostly complete just need VR plug (and sensor) and plug for TPS as well as a few more metres of split sleeve. I have run a battery cable from the battery to one of the clutch master bolts on the firewall, all of my grounds terminate there except the sensor grounds that terminate at the DB37. The main power is taken from the positive thru bulkhead post near the negative one, these run to 5 relays that will be mounted in the centre console box. 1 for the fuel pump, 1 double pole for the two injector banks, 1 double pole for the ignition, 1 for the idle valve and 1 for the O2 heater. These all run through the fuse box which will go between the shifter and high-low lever, up to the megasquirt and down to the left and through the hole the AC hoses used to go through. The ignition power will run from the fuses to the right and through the hole where the RR loom goes through.

IMG_3171_zpse0d2fe21.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Slight change of plan, BIP373s are not the easiest to get here so another trip to the wreckers, either: a pair of Subaru Hitachi igniters, a pair of Misubishi VR4 igniters or a Nissan CA18 4 channel igniter. I think Ill go with the Mitsubishi ones, they are from a V6 so each one will have a spare channel which I dont think will be a problem, the coils are the same as the Mistsi ones and apparently they are both pretty indestructible. I also got a Ford VR sensor so when My trigger wheel gets done I can start on a bracket.

I also came across another coil pack that may be useful to others, it is a 4 post wasted spark setup with a built in igniter, some Subarus have them

IMG_3218_zps84fa7872.jpg

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Following this as a pal is trying to set up a 2 cylinder setup for a jet ski and is looking at various coil packs...

Im guessing the jet ski is a two stroke so it would probably need a CDI set up. If not though the coils I have pictured here are also packaged individually on the V6 Mitsubishis, maybe the 4s as well but I cant remember. The ones I have here have a common core lamination for a pair of coils (4 spark plugs)

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Two stokes are a bit different to get going well. If I had a bit more spare money I would have a play with a Suzuki GP100 I have. Now if you were to use a megasquirt I would actually go microsquirt as there is a code that supports timed sequential injection. The reason for this is that it allows the injectors to be placed in the transfer ducts instead of the inlet manifold giving the possibility of improved fuel economy due to not loosing fuel out the exhaust port. From what I have read on line throttle body type injection is not all that easy to setup and really gives no advantage over a good carb

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This jet ski is already Efi but the system has gone crazy and cannot be economically repaired, and micro squirt is being looked at as a sensible, simplified and tuneable replacement.

As far as i know it currently injects fuel only into the crankcase via 2 injectors and oils itself separately, although it would have the oil system removed and be premix which is a common mod.

We were working on the basis it might not be too tough to convert an already Efi motor...

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Anything's possible, I'd read through the MS forums / MSRuns success stories to see if someone's done it before - odds on someone has.

That said, if you got into writing your own firmware for the MS you could have it automatically inject the correct mixture of oil as well as petrol.

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