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Wiring through new chassis


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When my new chassis eventually gets fitted I was wondering what to do about the wiring that goes through it.

Should I replace it with 12 core caravan cable then I can run work lamp etc as well

Was thinking 7 core caravan cable to rear lamps from a junction box

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I ran mine in split convoluted tubing along the top/outside/top faces securely cable tird to various chassis locations,

you can get a new chassis loom from autosparks which will have the correct wiring colour coding 7 terminals fitted. rather than bodge it with 7 core trailer wiring.

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I rewired my Isuzu truck cab from the front to the rear with caravan cable and it was very robust, no more lighting problems. Not worried about the cable colours because it will be wired the same as trailer lamps,

Not worried about keeping it standard either, just want it reliable :)

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I had an early 110 that we hauled the loom out of when we replaced the rear crossmember and the loom has started to chafe but hadn't gone through any of the wires. It stayed outside the chassis after that.

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Is this to prevent any chance of it rubbing through whilst out of sight in the chassis ?

Looked at loom prices and caravan cable is way way cheaper

When I replaced mine I did run it through the chassis (I used traffic light cable) and it's had no problems with rubbing, over 10 years now but for ease of running additional cables for accessories etc. I wish I had run some trunking along the outside of the chassis instead, you never know what you might want to add / take away in the future.

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I took advice from Ralph when the rear crossmember was changed and ran it along the chassis

For those people that use 7 core cable. Wow what a nasty way of doing things. Pity the poor electrician that has to follow the non colour coded wiring.

I used proper Lucar connectors and Lucar connector blocks inside the body at the rear.

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I ran the rear loom along the top of the chassis in conduit as per Western. The reasons that swung it for me was that it can be opened up easily to trace faults/add wires and there is no chance of it chaffing on sharp bits of galvanising inside the chassis.

The rear loom was a mess and 7 core was my original plan but after an evening with an old sidelight, a wiring diagram and a couple of drams, it works perfectly and can be understood by anyone that works on the 90 at a later date. I then ran a length of 3 core household wire inside the conduit also, just to provide some additional wires for use at a later date with things like worklights.

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Just a thought.

What are you doing about the two ? three ? plugs at the front of the loom ?

Not 12 core. You can buy 13 core trailer cable.

Actually considering the age of my loom, it was in vry good condition. Only the bullit connectors were the problem.

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Only got one plug to unplug in the engine bay now, pulled the loom out of the chassis today, gearbox wires not connected since 200 tdi conversion cause I knew it was coming out again

12 core cables

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-CORE-12AMP-CABLE-Towbar-Caravan-Trailer-Wiring-lighting-wire-13-PIN-towbar-/300688441060?pt=UK_Trailers_Transporters_Parts&hash=item46026d7ee4

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/cable/multicorecable.php#trailer

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Minor point of order here, any auto electrician worth his salt will recognise 7 core trailer cable for what it is, and know the colours off the top of his head. I used to wire up breakdown trucks for a living, and it would've been impossible to match the wiring colours from all the different truck manufacturers (if they even used colours - Some, such as MAN just numbered the cables!), so trailer cable was the norm. Just make sure it's not the cheap stuff, i.e 7 x 0.75mm2 !

Not 12 core. You can buy 13 core trailer cable.

As Landowner pointed out, it's actually not 13 core normally, as one of the pins is unused.

Matt

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Minor point of order here, any auto electrician worth his salt will recognise 7 core trailer cable for what it is, and know the colours off the top of his head. I used to wire up breakdown trucks for a living, and it would've been impossible to match the wiring colours from all the different truck manufacturers (if they even used colours - Some, such as MAN just numbered the cables!), so trailer cable was the norm. Just make sure it's not the cheap stuff, i.e 7 x 0.75mm2 !

As Landowner pointed out, it's actually not 13 core normally, as one of the pins is unused.

Matt

I will bow to your superior knowledge and much longer experience. However if you ever get the opportunity to look at both my truck or trailer you will see I only use the colour codes for that vehicle.

Anybody can follow my wiring.

Trailer wiring is for TRAILERS.

As you have pointed out on the SOCKET one pimn isn't used.

I mentioned CABLE. Something entirely different.

Vehicle Wiring Products cable from their page

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/cable/multicorecable.php#trailer

PLEASE shew me where the TWELVE core is listed.

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I will bow to your superior knowledge and much longer experience. However if you ever get the opportunity to look at both my truck or trailer you will see I only use the colour codes for that vehicle.

Anybody can follow my wiring.

Trailer wiring is for TRAILERS.

As you have pointed out on the SOCKET one pimn isn't used.

I mentioned CABLE. Something entirely different.

Vehicle Wiring Products cable from their page

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/cable/multicorecable.php#trailer

PLEASE shew me where the TWELVE core is listed.

Cheeky, I'm nowhere near as old as you :hysterical:

Anyway, have a look at this listing on Ebay, which is 12-core.

Automarine (one of the big wholesale suppliers that supply both my local Auto Electrical trade counters) sell 12-core, whereas Durite do 13 core. Whatever takes your fancy. I'm sure if the OP was to use it to replace his chassis loom an extra core wouldn't hurt.

The words 'concours' and 'Land Rover' shouldn't be in the same sentence ihmo, but that might just be me!

Matt

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I'm going for some 12/13 core from Vehicle Wiring Products, I have some 7 core to run to the rear lights and some two core depending on what looks neater behind the panels.

Tempted to run a heavy wire with it for worklamp to save running it along the roof.

I'll use a waterproof trailer junction box to protect the connections, this worked on my car transporter trailer and has been reliable for over five years.

Just have to measure it now :)

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I ran my original loom through the new galv chassis as it was in remarkably good nick, however a change of tack and a full td5 loom install and with some advice from those on here I have run the td5 chassis loom on the top rail. As mentioned previously it makes adding or future fault finding a lot easier.

I did remove the tdi loom and although I had meticulously wrapped it up in loom tape it was torn to shreds by the innards of the chassis, I can only speculate that the galv inside was to blame. I'm pretty glad I changed as I reckon it would've shorted out given time.

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