dantastic Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 I have an Eberspacher D2 sitting around. I think (hope) it works! Anyway, I want to build a tent heater. Something like this: But I also want to be able to use it in the cab of my Defender (truck cab). Doing one or the other is simple enough but coming up with a design which will work as both is a bit more tricky. Essentially, any ideas how I can route the diesel intake and exhaust from the red box above? It needs to be easy to plug in and out of the truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Try a hydraulic place, you can get some very clean hydraulic push fit fittings that hardly leak, they would be way overkill pressure wise but are relatively clean. Or just stick with the little diesel tank on the back and don't connect it to the cars tank. Then you can run it on red or heating oil or whatever it will accept. Why not have a look at vacuum hose fittings for the exhaust? You can get some twist lock ones with a replaceable seal and blanking plugs that would be neat enough so long as the gas wasn't too hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Boat tanks & motorbikes sometimes have small dry-break fuel line connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 The plan was to have a small integrated fuel tank so I'm not looking for fuel fittings. It's mainly the exhaust I'm worried about. I don't know how hot it gets either. I'll google some vacuum hose fittings, hopefully they are suitable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 Actually, am I better off mounting the box in the tub and just route the hot air into the cab. Then I wouldn't be too worried about the diesel smell either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 The exhaust used metal tubing as it is quite hot.... You would need some tube to a bulkhead flange to port it outside. Even some holes on the floor would be fine. Just make a panel to cover them up when the heater is not there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Whatever you do, be real careful theres no chance the exhaust fumes can get into where you're sleeping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Ignoring the possibilities of death due to CO poisoning - this is a great idea! The exhaust is about 1" OD tube and doesn't get all that hot. After all, you don't want much heat escaping through the exhaust! Personally, I'd probably go with a metal bayonet or screw hose connector which uses fibre washers to seal. These can be had in big sizes and are likely to give a positive seal. This kind of thing: http://www.pump.co.uk/hose-accessories-c279/brass-plastic-fittings-c1/swift-bayonet-couplings-c21/swift-hose-barb-12-15mm-p67 Or http://www.pump.co.uk/hose-accessories-c279/brass-plastic-fittings-c1/cam-couplings-c24 These ones have rubber seals - but may adapt to fibre or high temperature polymer equivalents. I guess if you wanted to be extra safe, you could make the exhaust double walled then use a small computer fan on the outside to suck air through the outer tube. Any leakage of exhaust would be vented to the outside by the fan. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Thanks for that Si, I think the fittings in the first link will be useful. I have been thinking more about it and I don't want the box itself in the cab. It doesn't make sense if I can keep it outside where I don't have to worry about diesel and exhaust. The rear sliding window on a truck cab can be locked open in fixed positions. The plan is to cut a piece of plexi glass and use as an insert that can be locked into place. I can fit the hot air vent and also the control panel to the plexi. This means I won't have to do any mad refabrication to my bulkhead and I also have a handy panel to slide inside the tent. A much more usable system. I might still use a connector like the above to have a permanently fitted exhaust system in the back tub. I would prefer to lead the exhaust fumes out away from the stuff back there. Next stop, army surplus to check what size ammo boxes they have ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 The eberspachers work more effectively if recirculating air rather than bringing in fresh air the whole time, so you may also want to route the air intake (heating air not combustion air) into the cab as well. That said the cab is quite a small space so you probably don't need maximum efficiency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 The eberspachers work more effectively if recirculating air rather than bringing in fresh air the whole time, so you may also want to route the air intake (heating air not combustion air) into the cab as well. That said the cab is quite a small space so you probably don't need maximum efficiency. Yes, I thought about that but both the cab and tent would be small enough so should not require a huge amount to enegrgy to heat. I would prefer fresh air but it won't be a bad idea to leave the fresh air intake exposed so I could plug in a duct to recirculate air as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 One last thought, if I remember correctly the intake air is pulled across the ECU circuit board (I could be wrong as it's a while since I looked at mine) so it would be an idea to protect the intake from rain and snow. Take a look inside your heater as I may be talking out of my backside. EDIT: mine is an older heater so yours could be totally different inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 The control unit is sitting over the air intake, under the cover. That having been said, will probably want to weather protect the thing anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 I'm interested in this as I want to do the same, I've got a heater and control unit etc and need it for the 90 and the caravan and the office as well when it gets really cold. thought it might take the chill off the workshop as well so need to move it around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 I'm still busy trying to find a suitable metal box for this build. Not just a box to fit the heater but something I can get a matching fuel tank for. My initial plan was to have the exhaust silencer inside the box for that nice and compact 'feel' but I don't think that's possible (or a good idea) I'm afraid I will overheat the eberspacher if I keep those bits in the box as well. This is definately happening, just a bit slowly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 I'm still busy trying to find a suitable metal box for this build. Not just a box to fit the heater but something I can get a matching fuel tank for. My initial plan was to have the exhaust silencer inside the box for that nice and compact 'feel' but I don't think that's possible (or a good idea) I'm afraid I will overheat the eberspacher if I keep those bits in the box as well. This is definately happening, just a bit slowly Was going to mount mine on a board and have the thermostat/timer thing on a long lead so it could be put in the cab or the caravan Is the thermostat sensor thingy in the timer control or is it separate? Not taken mine out of the box yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 I had a similar idea. I'm going ti mount the control panel and the hot air vent on a piece of plexi I can slot in to the back sliding window. That should be fine then for moving around etc. There are thermostats in some of the control panels, not sure if not all. Check what applies to your controller here http://www.eberspacher.com/download-centre/technical-documents/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Here is a similar product. You can see a bit better how they are dealing with the exhaust. They have a clear separation into 2 compartments as well. The red box on top is nice but this is probably a more realistic solution. http://www.dieselheat.com.au/products/rv-heaters/webasto-portable-heater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 I have been unable to find a handy box with the dimensions I was initially looking for so I've had to do with something a bit smaller. An old ammo box I had sitting around. As you can see here I had to take off the outlet cowl in order to make it fit. All that is is a funnel and it's not particularly well sealed anyway so not a big loss considering the box is so small anyway. First of all do some measuring! Then some drilling perfect fit! It is pretty snug and a bit tricky to get in and out but it's all good And here's the result of today's work The plan now is to get a 100mm ducting connector in metal and then use 100mm aluminum ducting. The standard stuff used is part made of paper so not a good idea for what I will be using it for. I also like the idea of 100mm as I had to take the cowl off and having a pretty large opening means less restriction. I have been around to all local shops that are open on a Sunday but I was only able to find 100mm connectors in plastic so I will keep trying during the week or maybe have a look online. This is all I've time for right now. Hopefully I will get a chance to do a bit more soon enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Hows the project going ? Same heater as mine, I need some wiring advice when you connect it up if you don't mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantastic Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Still looking for bits. I haven't been able to find a ducting connector in galvanize locally. Same with good looking power cable. Was able to get trailer core to use for the control panel. The wiring is pretty well detailed in the manual. This one here, p34 http://www.eberspacher.com/download-centre/technical-documents/air-heaters.html?&eID=download&file=fileadmin/data/countrysites/EB_UK/pdf_files/info_pdf_ebuk/technical_docs_pdf_ebuk/air_heaters_pdf_ebuk/hg_252069050000_tech_EN_14389.pdf I use the 801 controller, mainly because it has diagnostics if it would ever be needed. I'll take some piccies when I wire it up anyway but let me know if you have any questions. I think the only thing the docs really stress is to make sure the unit is fused as otherwise you fry the electrics if you accidentally reverse the polarity. 20A for the Eberspacher 5A for the controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Still looking for bits. I haven't been able to find a ducting connector in galvanize locally. Same with good looking power cable. Was able to get trailer core to use for the control panel. The wiring is pretty well detailed in the manual. This one here, p34 http://www.eberspacher.com/download-centre/technical-documents/air-heaters.html?&eID=download&file=fileadmin/data/countrysites/EB_UK/pdf_files/info_pdf_ebuk/technical_docs_pdf_ebuk/air_heaters_pdf_ebuk/hg_252069050000_tech_EN_14389.pdf I use the 801 controller, mainly because it has diagnostics if it would ever be needed. I'll take some piccies when I wire it up anyway but let me know if you have any questions. I think the only thing the docs really stress is to make sure the unit is fused as otherwise you fry the electrics if you accidentally reverse the polarity. 20A for the Eberspacher 5A for the controller. Thanks for that Wiring seems straight forward enough, I read that fuel line and pump has to be just so as well, having mine on a raised piece of ally with old metal fuel can supplying the diesel, exhaust underneath facing one way and burner inlet facing the other, have to extend the exhaust depending on where I use it. Limited to 2 metres exhaust length I think. Probably end up fitting it in cubby box later on after I've finished using it in the caravan, need two really, if only I had the money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alland Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 hi i fitted a d2 eberspacher to my old t4 transporter i was going to use an old clarke welding machine carcuss for the same thing it would be perfect as you could mount fuel storage as well ,it also has wheels and there is the right diameter out the back for hose and at the front for exhaust and mount fuel pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolarBlair Posted December 28, 2022 Share Posted December 28, 2022 Time to revive this thread! I've been looking around for something like this for a while. I know Nakatanenga make a mobile parking heater but depending on spec it's between £1.4-1.8k! Seems a bit excessive. Does look nice though. https://www.4x4overlander.com/product/mobile-parking-heater/ I came across this video which looks helpful: https://youtu.be/lKwzue3poDA I like the mobile parking heater for a few reasons: 1. It's more versatile and can be used to heat a roof top tent as well as act like a parking heater. 2. It doesn't rely on messing with the vehicle. No more extra holes. 3. If something goes wrong or the heater needs to be serviced, it's already in a box and easily accessible. 4. As it's easier to access I'm much happier taking a punt on a cheap planar heater kit from Amazon £150-200. An external 12V connector on the truck negates the need for onboard batteries simplifying the build. All the necessary bulkhead fittings for the exhaust can be had on Amazon for cheap. I especially like the YouTube video and the onboard fan idea to keep the box internals cool. Wrapping the exhaust is still a good idea and an aluminium waterproof case can also be had for reasonable money. Given the size of the box, the fuel tank that comes in the kit has to be replaced as it's too tall. Not too difficult to install two 2.5L universal tanks instead. Of course this only works if the box is build in such a way that the exhaust is insulated from things like the fuel tanks but this seems achievable. I had planned on using a cement board to create a box withing a box to house the wrapped exhaust and possibly add some glass wool insulation as an additional barrier around essential components and then rely on the fan and vents to cool the heater. You could still use it like a parking heater by making a modified version of one of these vents: I was all set to hit the ground running with this idea but I splurged on a winch instead. But for my next project... 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 28, 2022 Share Posted December 28, 2022 These are all over ebay for ~£150, the 8kw claim is BS (they're nearer the 3-5 of the standard Eberspacher) but can't argue with the price & simplicity: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404064192269 Obviously the usual caveats about fire & carbon monoxide etc. apply as well as Chinese wiring but they seem to have a huge following now so all the common problems have been solved. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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