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Portable Eberspacher


dantastic

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I have an Eberspacher D2 sitting around. I think (hope) it works!

Anyway, I want to build a tent heater. Something like this:

Kimberley-Camp4Ever-Portable-Air-Heater.

But I also want to be able to use it in the cab of my Defender (truck cab).

Doing one or the other is simple enough but coming up with a design which will work as both is a bit more tricky. Essentially, any ideas how I can route the diesel intake and exhaust from the red box above? It needs to be easy to plug in and out of the truck.

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Try a hydraulic place, you can get some very clean hydraulic push fit fittings that hardly leak, they would be way overkill pressure wise but are relatively clean. Or just stick with the little diesel tank on the back and don't connect it to the cars tank. Then you can run it on red or heating oil or whatever it will accept.

Why not have a look at vacuum hose fittings for the exhaust? You can get some twist lock ones with a replaceable seal and blanking plugs that would be neat enough so long as the gas wasn't too hot.

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Ignoring the possibilities of death due to CO poisoning - this is a great idea!

The exhaust is about 1" OD tube and doesn't get all that hot. After all, you don't want much heat escaping through the exhaust!

Personally, I'd probably go with a metal bayonet or screw hose connector which uses fibre washers to seal. These can be had in big sizes and are likely to give a positive seal.

This kind of thing:

http://www.pump.co.uk/hose-accessories-c279/brass-plastic-fittings-c1/swift-bayonet-couplings-c21/swift-hose-barb-12-15mm-p67

Or

http://www.pump.co.uk/hose-accessories-c279/brass-plastic-fittings-c1/cam-couplings-c24

These ones have rubber seals - but may adapt to fibre or high temperature polymer equivalents.

I guess if you wanted to be extra safe, you could make the exhaust double walled then use a small computer fan on the outside to suck air through the outer tube. Any leakage of exhaust would be vented to the outside by the fan.

Si

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Thanks for that Si, I think the fittings in the first link will be useful.

I have been thinking more about it and I don't want the box itself in the cab. It doesn't make sense if I can keep it outside where I don't have to worry about diesel and exhaust.

The rear sliding window on a truck cab can be locked open in fixed positions. The plan is to cut a piece of plexi glass and use as an insert that can be locked into place. I can fit the hot air vent and also the control panel to the plexi. This means I won't have to do any mad refabrication to my bulkhead and I also have a handy panel to slide inside the tent. A much more usable system.

I might still use a connector like the above to have a permanently fitted exhaust system in the back tub. I would prefer to lead the exhaust fumes out away from the stuff back there.

Next stop, army surplus to check what size ammo boxes they have :))

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The eberspachers work more effectively if recirculating air rather than bringing in fresh air the whole time, so you may also want to route the air intake (heating air not combustion air) into the cab as well. That said the cab is quite a small space so you probably don't need maximum efficiency.

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The eberspachers work more effectively if recirculating air rather than bringing in fresh air the whole time, so you may also want to route the air intake (heating air not combustion air) into the cab as well. That said the cab is quite a small space so you probably don't need maximum efficiency.

Yes, I thought about that but both the cab and tent would be small enough so should not require a huge amount to enegrgy to heat. I would prefer fresh air but it won't be a bad idea to leave the fresh air intake exposed so I could plug in a duct to recirculate air as well.

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One last thought, if I remember correctly the intake air is pulled across the ECU circuit board (I could be wrong as it's a while since I looked at mine) so it would be an idea to protect the intake from rain and snow. Take a look inside your heater as I may be talking out of my backside.

EDIT: mine is an older heater so yours could be totally different inside.

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I'm interested in this as I want to do the same, I've got a heater and control unit etc and need it for the 90 and the caravan and the office as well when it gets really cold. thought it might take the chill off the workshop as well so need to move it around

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I'm still busy trying to find a suitable metal box for this build. Not just a box to fit the heater but something I can get a matching fuel tank for.

My initial plan was to have the exhaust silencer inside the box for that nice and compact 'feel' but I don't think that's possible (or a good idea) I'm afraid I will overheat the eberspacher if I keep those bits in the box as well.

This is definately happening, just a bit slowly :)

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I'm still busy trying to find a suitable metal box for this build. Not just a box to fit the heater but something I can get a matching fuel tank for.

My initial plan was to have the exhaust silencer inside the box for that nice and compact 'feel' but I don't think that's possible (or a good idea) I'm afraid I will overheat the eberspacher if I keep those bits in the box as well.

This is definately happening, just a bit slowly :)

Was going to mount mine on a board and have the thermostat/timer thing on a long lead so it could be put in the cab or the caravan

Is the thermostat sensor thingy in the timer control or is it separate?

Not taken mine out of the box yet

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I had a similar idea. I'm going ti mount the control panel and the hot air vent on a piece of plexi I can slot in to the back sliding window. That should be fine then for moving around etc.

There are thermostats in some of the control panels, not sure if not all. Check what applies to your controller here http://www.eberspacher.com/download-centre/technical-documents/

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I have been unable to find a handy box with the dimensions I was initially looking for so I've had to do with something a bit smaller. An old ammo box I had sitting around. As you can see here I had to take off the outlet cowl in order to make it fit. All that is is a funnel and it's not particularly well sealed anyway so not a big loss considering the box is so small anyway.

114E76D1-A02C-47BF-9735-ADF8115E1E93_zps

First of all do some measuring!

4179250C-E06F-4CFC-9D75-0A7D1A02A083_zps

Then some drilling

DDA351A3-B824-4F0B-9856-C5CCEA8FBB8F_zps

perfect fit!

5E947B3E-5C3E-4D1F-81A8-C9FC56821013_zps

It is pretty snug and a bit tricky to get in and out but it's all good

6E1AAACA-490B-4A44-814F-9C42E57E25D3_zps

And here's the result of today's work

0D4E0FDB-95F4-41CA-93D7-314285AFA4AC_zps

The plan now is to get a 100mm ducting connector in metal and then use 100mm aluminum ducting. The standard stuff used is part made of paper so not a good idea for what I will be using it for. I also like the idea of 100mm as I had to take the cowl off and having a pretty large opening means less restriction. I have been around to all local shops that are open on a Sunday but I was only able to find 100mm connectors in plastic so I will keep trying during the week or maybe have a look online.

This is all I've time for right now. Hopefully I will get a chance to do a bit more soon enough.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still looking for bits. I haven't been able to find a ducting connector in galvanize locally. Same with good looking power cable. Was able to get trailer core to use for the control panel.

The wiring is pretty well detailed in the manual. This one here, p34

http://www.eberspacher.com/download-centre/technical-documents/air-heaters.html?&eID=download&file=fileadmin/data/countrysites/EB_UK/pdf_files/info_pdf_ebuk/technical_docs_pdf_ebuk/air_heaters_pdf_ebuk/hg_252069050000_tech_EN_14389.pdf

I use the 801 controller, mainly because it has diagnostics if it would ever be needed.

I'll take some piccies when I wire it up anyway but let me know if you have any questions. I think the only thing the docs really stress is to make sure the unit is fused as otherwise you fry the electrics if you accidentally reverse the polarity. 20A for the Eberspacher 5A for the controller.

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Still looking for bits. I haven't been able to find a ducting connector in galvanize locally. Same with good looking power cable. Was able to get trailer core to use for the control panel.

The wiring is pretty well detailed in the manual. This one here, p34

http://www.eberspacher.com/download-centre/technical-documents/air-heaters.html?&eID=download&file=fileadmin/data/countrysites/EB_UK/pdf_files/info_pdf_ebuk/technical_docs_pdf_ebuk/air_heaters_pdf_ebuk/hg_252069050000_tech_EN_14389.pdf

I use the 801 controller, mainly because it has diagnostics if it would ever be needed.

I'll take some piccies when I wire it up anyway but let me know if you have any questions. I think the only thing the docs really stress is to make sure the unit is fused as otherwise you fry the electrics if you accidentally reverse the polarity. 20A for the Eberspacher 5A for the controller.

Thanks for that

Wiring seems straight forward enough, I read that fuel line and pump has to be just so as well, having mine on a raised piece of ally with old metal fuel can supplying the diesel, exhaust underneath facing one way and burner inlet facing the other, have to extend the exhaust depending on where I use it. Limited to 2 metres exhaust length I think.

Probably end up fitting it in cubby box later on after I've finished using it in the caravan, need two really, if only I had the money

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  • 1 month later...

hi i fitted a d2 eberspacher to my old t4 transporter i was going to use an old clarke welding machine carcuss for the same thing it would be perfect as you could mount fuel storage as well ,it also has wheels and there is the right diameter out the back for hose and at the front for exhaust and mount fuel pump

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  • 8 years later...

Time to revive this thread! I've been looking around for something like this for a while.

I know Nakatanenga make a mobile parking heater but depending on spec it's between £1.4-1.8k! Seems a bit excessive. Does look nice though.

HEIZBOX3-2BATT-1TANK-08.thumb.jpg.c0e8d34eb2e661df03d8171270fe60ec.jpgHEIZBOX3-2BATT-1TANK-10-InnenlebenTxt5fdb0afa20475.thumb.jpg.1293d589c406cb6b4287ccaf8ede2f4f.jpg

https://www.4x4overlander.com/product/mobile-parking-heater/

I came across this video which looks helpful:

https://youtu.be/lKwzue3poDA

I like the mobile parking heater for a few reasons:

 1. It's more versatile and can be used to heat a roof top tent as well as act like a parking heater.

2. It doesn't rely on messing with the vehicle. No more extra holes.

3. If something goes wrong or the heater needs to be serviced, it's already in a box and easily accessible.

4. As it's easier to access I'm much happier taking a punt on a cheap planar heater kit from Amazon £150-200.

An external 12V connector on the truck negates the need for onboard batteries simplifying the build.

All the necessary bulkhead fittings for the exhaust can be had on Amazon for cheap. I especially like the YouTube video and the onboard fan idea to keep the box internals cool.

Wrapping the exhaust is still a good idea and an aluminium waterproof case can also be had for reasonable money.

Screenshot_20221228_210137_com.amazon.mShop.android.shopping.thumb.jpg.502545c2e034a95695bffb317074f48d.jpgScreenshot_20221228_210151_com.amazon.mShop.android.shopping.thumb.jpg.8a9af46e38930bcea878d25570e4a1fe.jpg

 

Given the size of the box, the fuel tank that comes in the kit has to be replaced as it's too tall. Not too difficult to install two 2.5L universal tanks instead.

Of course this only works if the box is build in such a way that the exhaust is insulated from things like the fuel tanks but this seems achievable. I had planned on using a cement board to create a box withing a box to house the wrapped exhaust and possibly add some glass wool insulation as an additional barrier around essential components and then rely on the fan and vents to cool the heater.

You could still use it like a parking heater by making a modified version of one of these vents:

window_vent.png.4e2188f3b7cc8b4099ec44671c0e9d21.png

I was all set to hit the ground running with this idea but I splurged on a winch instead. But for my next project... 🤔

 

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These are all over ebay for ~£150, the 8kw claim is BS (they're nearer the 3-5 of the standard Eberspacher) but can't argue with the price & simplicity:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404064192269

Obviously the usual caveats about fire & carbon monoxide etc. apply as well as Chinese wiring :ph34r: but they seem to have a huge following now so all the common problems have been solved.

heater.thumb.jpg.26ff63c2c39e38ce032e84a2eb6e5d45.jpg

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