bodumatau Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 It has begun, finally, today..... after coaxing my flapper along for almost 2 years while Nigels Megasquirt kit sat on the shelf..... the flapper just kept running just well enough not to warrant the change.... UNTIL this morning when I tried to fix a little problem I had yesterday evening and suddenly nothing worked anymore.....my temperature rose and I suddenly found myself ripping bits out..... so the build has begun!!! since this is the first time to do something like this I might need some help and direction from those of you who have done it before. so far I have put the dumpy dizzy in, easy and satisfying...... got my radiator out, engine wiring harness out, flapper plenum and bits off, ready to put on the hotwire top end Nigel sent me.... now I need some help: 1. can someone give me the proper part number for a composite valley gasket (LKJ500020?) and the seals for it? I thought I ordered the right one but a tin one came. are the clamps for the composite the same as for the tin one? 2. can someone tell me if the O-rings for the injectors (they have a green stripe around them) are the ERR7309? 3. I can't seem to get the allen key bolts out of the top of the plenum, can I put a rattle gun on these? will they break? I have tried a little impact screwdriver with a 6mm bit but all I did was break the bit.... 4. following question 3, can you get the injectors out to change the o-rings without taking the plenum off? it looks to me like the fuel pipe ring will obstruct? or am I wrong. 5. routing of the injector wires, the factory puts the wires UNDER the fuel rail, but then you almost can't get the plugs out past the injectors? would you recommend the same? I would rather put them on the outside so it is easier to get the loom out and off if I need to work on it. 6. front crank oil seal on the 3.5 V8? ERR1632? is this the correct part? (24D serial number engine) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheesy Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 You might have better luck in the MS section. #3 mine were very tight, tried an allen key with a pipe over it and twisted the allen key 60 degrees and it still didnt move. Had to use a breaker bar and socket, impact driver would be worth a try, failing that you might have to drill the heads off the cap screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 #1 Go on ebay and buy a valley gasket for the latest RV8, the P38/Disco II, search for composite alongside it and it will turn up. Clamps and seals are the same. #2 I think the injectors seals are pretty standard things, an ebay search will turn them up, I can't confirm the part number without looking elsewhere. Yep, #3 very tight, I *think* they are actually quarter inch? 6mm will round in them, so take it easy. #4 take the plenum off, it will make life a LOT easier, and allow you to repair the injector loom and place it better. #5 the injector connectors will be tight to get in/out on the throttle body side, whatever you do. You'd do well to get a set of hotwire injectors, saves a load of wiring, as you can them remove the resistors from the loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 thanks Bowie and cheesy. @Bowie, yep I got a whole hotwire top end from Nigel with my kit, so all the hotwire injectors, fuel pressure controllers, start pwm thingy etc. I have taken my Flapper manifold completely off and putting this one on. can I just copy and move this post to the MS section? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 I have asked a friendly admin to do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 I have asked a friendly admin to do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Thanks HoG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 thanks guys, progress report, .. got those 6mm allen bolts off the plenum using the highly sophisticated Land Rover method, hit it with a hammer smartly!!! this worked for 5 of the 6, then I had to use the other good old method, make it hot..... all off now, cleaned up (getting there). still worried about the o-rings and valley seal gaskets if anyone has a part numbers book who could help. ... also found Nigels thread of his rebuild in this section of the forum so will be studying that closely tonight while resting my sore fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 The internet says: LKJ500020 - Valley gasket ERR7309 - injector o-rings Did Nige not put the seals in the kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 composite valley gasket LKJ500020 injector orings RTC5679 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 ok thanks gents, nope Nige thought about almost everything else but not the seals. I did ask him but think he is a tad busy. I have found the right crank main seal, so can tick that off. found the o-rings locally, tick that off now just trying to find the valley gasket and the seals for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 So I have a question, the Hotwire fuel rail I am putting on has a plug for (I assume) a fuel pressure sensor, but I don't see any connection for this in the megasquirt setup? Have I missed something? Is this plug used at all ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 It's a fuel temperature sensor (the hole is blind) and no you don't need it / use it with MS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 Thanks FF, one less thing to worry about. slowly the waters are becoming less muddy and the build is making more and more sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 making progress, almost all the wires for the looms ready, just one question.... maybe someone can help. is there a reason why I cannot connect the PWM orange wire to the Fuel pump relay or the Main relay? both are also fused and ignition reliant to switch on, will the PWM cause interference or draw too much power? getting there, once I know what to do with the PWM wire it all comes out and becomes a loom!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 The issue with connecting the PWM valve to the fuel pump etc. is they're fused for 10A+, the PWM valve only draws about an amp and you really want the fuse to blow if it goes much over that or it can damage the ECU. Likewise the ECU itself (Blue/Yellow) only needs an amp or so to run as all the injector current ec. goes out via the ground wires, likewise the EDIS. I don't know if the diagram is the best ever but really the ECU / PWM / EDIS could be run from a single 3A fuse and the "heavy" stuff (fuel pump, injectors, coils) fused separately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 Fridge Freezer your help is invaluable, thanks for taking the time ok so then I could run the ECU feed (blue/yellow), the PWM (Orange) and the EDIS feed (blue yellow to pin 6) ALL off the white switched 12V BEFORE it gets to the relay and fuse the switched 12v with a 3A fuse. make sense? does it then also make sense to run 2 wires for each injector loom to the ECU for the trigger/earth? will this help spread the load thru the pins? or doesn't it matter? I am definitely running at least 4x1mm from the ECU to a nice fat earth that is directly connected to the battery. also my EDIS and Lambda are connecting to this common earth (looks like a 16mm wire so plenty of earth there) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 on another note, I am getting my new o-rings for my injectors tomorrow so then I can put my fuel rail and injectors in, is there something with which it is best to lubricate the injector o-rings? so I don't have to fight with the fuel rail like I did taking it off? can I use silicon spray? WD40 I would think is oil based so might make the o-rings swell and perish? spose I could use fuel but that evaporates too quickly **edit - after some searching on the net it seems the best is PTFE grease (white grease) and second best seems to be Vaseline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Vaseline Petroleum jelly, so it just dissolves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Vaseline is a handy workshop substance, great for electrical connectors too.This is how I did my wiring on t'ambulance (if the forum software allows the image link): ...Same thing attached as the link doesn't seem to be working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 Vaseline Petroleum jelly, so it just dissolves Bowie the internets argument is that the PTFE grease stays on the O-rings and therefore makes it easier to take apart in future whereas the vaseline just dissolves and disappears and then you fight to get them apart. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 Vaseline is a handy workshop substance, great for electrical connectors too. This is how I did my wiring on t'ambulance (if the forum software allows the image link): thanks Fridge Freezer, looks like I need to start figuring out how to send a case of ice cold beer to the UK as thanks your sketch is exactly what I had in mind except that I have a main relay feeding the coil and injectors so that the ignition only has to drive the main relay trigger. (as per nigels diagram, modified with your advice) I hear you about the main FUSE, have bought myself a FAT HUGE MONSTER fuse holder which I am going to put onto my live bus bar (I have one of those scary live points on the firewall fed by a 16mm wire from the battery and starter.... all unfused..... yay..... I just imagine something touching that and my engine compartment getting free welding lessons..... so will be much happier once that fuse is in...... I bough a 40A and a 50A, hoping the 40 will be enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Bowie the internets argument is that the PTFE grease stays on the O-rings and therefore makes it easier to take apart in future whereas the vaseline just dissolves and disappears and then you fight to get them apart. That may be, but vaseline is the one always recommended. If you struggle to get an injector rail out then you need to grow a few muscles, frankly. Never had one stick on me, nothing that a quick yank wouldn't sort out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 That may be, but vaseline is the one always recommended. If you struggle to get an injector rail out then you need to grow a few muscles, frankly. Never had one stick on me, nothing that a quick yank wouldn't sort out. haha loving it, not often people tell me to grow a few muscles usually they telling me to stop breaking things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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