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Storage Drawer Build


Mark

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Martin, what would you like pics of ?

I haven't done any today as I had to accompany SWMBO to the Tate Modern and I shall be helping WKW90 with his rebuild tomorrow so I won't be resuming the battle until Friday.

You have a design ! Bravo sir, I just had a rough idea and made it up as I went along, and it's not turned out too badly so far. the fun will start when I try to make the front of the drawer flush with everything else

Mo

Thats my problem too Mo.....making the front bit flush. I dont want any SPECIFIC pics, just anything showing close-ups/joints etc.

I didn't get to start today too :( started raining a bit after finishing my rear speaker enclosure design, and couldn't be bothered anymore. Might crack on tomorrow weather permitting.

Mart

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Hi, nice job.

I made a very similar set up a couple of years ago.

My RRC has its LPG tank where the spare wheel should be. I didn't think the previous owner's idea of a Holts tyre re-inflator/sealer would be much use on a Rangie wheel so I got another spare wheel/tyre which then need somewhere to live.

I made my storage system wide enough to accommodate a spare wheel lying flat with a drawer alongside.

I used 15mm ERW box section welded frame with a 8mm ply top pop-rivetted on.

The spare tyre section has a removable front flap of 8mm ply.

The drawer was assembled from 8mm ply with 20mm angle strengthening.

I simply cut oval holes approx 100mm X 30mm as hand holds for the drawer and spare wheel flap.

The fronts were covered in grey carpet cut to go inside the hand holds.

The lower tailgate butts hard against the front of the drawer/flap so security wasn't an issue, although I did buy a couple of cabinet locks from screwfix which I've yet to fit.

The top also has grey carpet glued on so it looks a bit less agricultural.

It wouldn't win any design awards but it was cheap to make (about £40) and it does the job.

At the moment it's sitting behind the garden shed wrapped in a tarpaulin as I took it out last year so I could replace the rotten boot floor.

Oh the joys of Rangie ownership!

Bob

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Chaps, I'm planning to build a drawer similar to this for the back of my 110 SW. I've got no problems with building the thing but, ideally, I'd like it to be the full length of the load bay, which is about a metre. Does anybody know where I could get some decently strong drawer runners of that length?

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Chaps, I'm planning to build a drawer similar to this for the back of my 110 SW. I've got no problems with building the thing but, ideally, I'd like it to be the full length of the load bay, which is about a metre. Does anybody know where I could get some decently strong drawer runners of that length?

I think you will struggle with runners that length.

How about making your own?

A simple way would be to fix a 25mm angle to the bottom of the wheel boxes so that it forms a channel with the floor. Then make your drawer to fit between the flange of the angle that sticks out and then bolt little roller bearing to the sides of the drawer frame to run between the floor and the angle. Cheap bearings can be found on Ebay if you search for skate board bearings, about £2 for a set of 8 at 20mm diameter and 8mm wide with an 8mm bore.

It will mean that you can't pull out the full length but if you wanted to do that then you could slide in a shelf under the drawer that is held in place with angle on the wheel boxes. You can then pull out the shelf half way and then the drawer above it almost all the way with the shelf taking a lot of the weight.

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The slide-out rails used on almost all rack-mount servers and networking equipment are made by - Accuride

Accuride also supply rails for general use, they're available up to 1.5m long, with load ratings of up to 225kg per pair.

They're stocked by RS and Farnell and, if you don't have an account with either of them, can be bought online from - Components Direct

When I disposed of some old Compaq servers at work, I kept some of the heavier-duty rails, a pair of which, my mate used to make a plywood drawer in the back of his 110 CSW -

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Paul.

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I think you will struggle with runners that length.

How about making your own?

Thanks for the idea. It's an interesting approach but really too complicated for what I want.

The slide-out rails used on almost all rack-mount servers and networking equipment are made by - Accuride

Accuride also supply rails for general use, they're available up to 1.5m long, with load ratings of up to 225kg per pair.

They're stocked by RS and Farnell and, if you don't have an account with either of them, can be bought online from - Components Direct

Excellent - just what I was after. I'll probably compromise on some 800mm long ones though, as the price effectively doubles for the lengths above that :blink: Thanks very much :)

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Made some progress on the drawers over the easter weekend, in between the snow showers....

First job was to finish dressing all the welds back to ensure there was enough clearance inside for the drawers to run, and all the panels to fit properly. Once that was done, all the framework got a coat of red primer, and then a coat of black satin. Spraying during random snow and rain storms is not fun...

Having painted, the slides got bolted to the outer frame. I also added some draught excluder to the surface where the drawer closes. This should take up any slack in the fit, and stop the whole thing rattling:

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Once that was done, I got the sides of the drawers attached to the drawer frames, and the front/bottom piece attached. This was all due to be done using countersunk rivets, but it turned out that the countersink on a pop rivet is a 120 degree whereas all the countersinks I had were for 90 degrees (normal screws, etc). So given that it was Saturday night on a bank holiday weekend, I got on and used normal pop rivets for the sides, and Large headed pop rivets for the front:

Inside the Drawer:

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The front:

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However, I still couldn't use normal rivets for the bottom, as the clearance wasn't there... so I got enthusiastic in the machine shop and made a nice 120 degree countersink:

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which whilst not exactly elegant, worked to get the bottoms riveted up:

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Once everything was attached, I installed the handles in the front, you can see that in the pictures above...

Next the drawers got attached to the runners:

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These runners have quite a nice feature in that the drawers are not attached to the runner directly, but attached to a bracket that locates on the runner, and means the drawer can be removed from the runner easily, just by lifting a couple of clips. There is also an extra hole to allow the drawer to be bolted to the slide, which I will use once the installation is finished:

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So now we have runners attached to frame, drawers built up, and attached to the runners, the only thing left is to attach the top to the outer frame. Again, countersunk rivets were in order:

All ready to be riveted:

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So, once I had filled the holes above with rivets, and attacked it with the air rivetter, we should be all ready for the fun bit...

Take one empty Discovery:

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Add the outer framework:

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This is not fixed down to anything yet, as I haven't added the load rail to this car. I am also not sure whether to keep the carpet or mats in the boot, but it should all still fit ok.

Add the right hand drawer:

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Clears the door no problem, and should clear the pockets that are attached to the new (old?) door card:

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Then add the drawer to the other side:

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This leaves a gap at the side, which will be used to hold stuff, and give access to the load rail that will be installed at some point:

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And also a gap at the back, which will accommodate the pockets on the door:

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So, whilst there are one or two 'fit' issues (due to my inability to make anything square :angry: ) and it dosn't exactly look bling, with the monster rivets, and that road sign chic, I am generally pleased with what came out:

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It has probably cost in the region of £100, possibly less. This is mainly due to acquiring materials from the scrapyard, rather than buying virgin aluminum sheeting and runners.

I haven't weighed it yet, but just to echo someone's sentiment above, it ain't light.... <_<

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Guys............I am 100% definitely starting mine tomorrow!!

Got my runners all sorted out.....ended up with B&Q 600mm runners, rated at 45kg......but cant remember where the paddle latch suppliers were.

Mark, you got yours from over the pond, right? Where from please!

Or, what UK suppliers are there where I can order online??

Martin

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As Chris says, I think that would be far less hassle. There are a couple of people in the UK who would sell me the handles I wanted, none of which did online ordering, and all of which wanted upwards of £40 each for those specific handles. Having seen the ones Chris got, that would seem to be far easier.

Chris, Have you got any further with the drawers on the trailer?

Cheers

Mark.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been thinking of doing something like this in the back of my 90 too , but i also would like to replace my 4 inward facing seats with 2 forward facing on top of a storage box if possible have any one ever done this ?

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Chris, Have you got any further with the drawers on the trailer?

Sorry Mark, I missed this...

Yes, though mine are no more than simple sliding trays. I will do an update some time - I am working on the kitchen fittings at the moment... and I need some alternative to the current door rubbers as it is plain impossible to shut the doors without a super-human effort. Once closed the catches are being over stressed. :(

Chris

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  • 7 months later...
Mark, I've just hijacked your thread to show my drawer build too :) Since I'm making mine from wood it should make a nice contrast to yours whilst staying on topic :)

As far as design goes, I'm just making it up as I go along !

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Mo

could i get a picture of the finished drawer unit.

cheers

Big john

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Hello folks,

It's been a while since I put my head above the parapet here and I'd forgotten all about this thread until I got a couple of notifications this evening. Anyway, earlier in the year I was using it as inspiration for building a store drawer to fit in my wifes' DII, so I thought it only fair to show the finished (well nearly) results:

Our DII is a very nice ES and one of the prime considerations was that anything I added had to be totally reversible. To that end, I removed the two fold away seats and then cut a ply panel to fit between the wheel arches that extended from the rear door threshold trim forwards underneath the rear seats. To this I fixed the main structure of two sides, a central divider and a cross panel. The latter divides the drawer area from the slightly awkward space formed by the rake of the seats and the narrow full width box it forms will eventually have a hinged lid on it.

I cut holes in the ply base, partly in a vain attempt to save some weight, but mainly to avoid the seat anchors in the boot floor as they're slightly raised above the carpet level.

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This next shot shows the whole completed set-up, which included shelves for various camping equipment. This was all built for a trip to the Sierra Nevada mountains in southern Spain back in October. It's virtually all built from 9mm plywood, apart from odd battern and the main structural uprights shown above, which are 18mm softwood. I chose the latter partly for strength and also partly for convenience as they were decently thick enough to fix screws up through the base and down through the top without splitting.

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One of the drawers, which opens on the excellent heavy duty runners from B&Q. It was cunningly designed to just miss the plastic gubbins that adorns the inside on the rear door, and when the door is shut that same gubbins is a snug fit against the drawer fronts, which does away with the need for complicated catches and stops them from rattling around.

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I wanted the whole assembly to be secure when travelling off-road but didn't want to drill holes in the vehicle to fix it. Instead, I built a pair of wooden brackets that were bolted in using the now vacant fold away seat mounts and that were in turn fixed down onto the edge of the drawer base. This was designed to stop the whole thing 'bouncing' over rough terrain. The brackets were made in such a way that they also doubled up as carriers for a gas bottle on the drivers side as shown, and a 20 litre water jerry can on the passenger side. These two were secured to the brackets with small ratchet straps.

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In addition to the shelves in the picture, a three way camping fridge was mounted on top of the drawer unit, secured with ratchet straps to the tie down points that can just be seen on the front and rear edges of the top.

It all worked really well, to the extent that we're going to leave the drawer unit itself in place all of the time (we never used the rear seats anyway) although the shelves have now been removed. I do intent to finish it a bit better when I get chance, probably with some auto carpet if I can find something suitable.

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  • 1 month later...

me = cheap and cheerful. i just screwed an old ammo box to the 1" thick rubber matting in the back of my disco 1, where the passengers side rear seat should be. it is perfect and you can still fold down the boot seats, i dont have a picture but it is a very good fit, also you can store small things like c/b ariels down the small gap inbetween the arch and the box.

also i am going to use the satbelt of a boot seat to retain a 20l jerry can, this will be aswell as the seat but i have not got a jerry can yet, as i have not had he chance to buy one.

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