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landrover series 3 gearbox


eisen1968

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Hello, just joined forum and need some assistance advice regarding series 3 gearbox issue. Notably second gear. Here is the issue. When changing from first to second there is a noticeable loud rattle when second gear is engaged. It Doesn't grind. Sounds Like A bag of marbles. it drives fine in second doesn't jump out. 2) if I move off slowly in first then change to second there is no noise. If I increase speed in first and then into second, second gear engagement is accompanied by this loud rattling noise. Finally whilst driving in second gear if I push the stick back in direction of second gear and hold it there there is a little bit more backwards movement and this rattling noise occurs continuously until I release pressure on the stick. Im thinking maybe the selector needs adjustment. Any advice appreciated. Thanks folks

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Thers is no adjustment for engagement on a S3 gearbox. There is on the non-synchro 2nd boxes (S1, S2 and most 2a)

Sounds to me like a synchro problem - possibly baulk ring or engagement teeth. If you enjoy taking the things to pieces and have fairly deep pockets then dismantle it and replace the necessary parts and other worn bits like bearings - but otherwise - why not lean to double declutch - and avoid using the synchromesh.

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  • 2 weeks later...

With my S3 (now sold) I had a similar issue. It turned out to be a warn selector fork. The actual semi-circular bit of the fork that sits over the selector ring was (worn thinner) and didn't move the selector as far as it should. The gear rattled in use. I didn't notice at first - the metal was much brighter where it was worn!

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As the forks sit at the top of the gbox and are one of the first things to be dismantled once on the bench I recon you should be able to check this in place?? I admit that my knowledge comes from a Series 1 gearbox which is mostly similar to later Series ones.

Working on the forks is fiddly but you will have to anyway if you decide to take it apart so if it is a possible fault cure then it could be a quick cheap cure. You will need to follow the book on how to remove and replace as you can end up with missing or jamed gears so try the lever for movement before starting the engine and remove and refit again if needed (it took me atleast two attempts to get it right and one fork was a pig).

I Would canvas on here to see if it is likely to be the fault and fix or if a full rebuild or replacement is required?

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As Les said, removing and refitting the selector shafts and forks can be done without removing the box. It can be a bit of a fiddle, but it's not that bad. 3rd/4th comes out first, followed by 1t/2nd, then reverse. Refit in the opposite order. Make sure the reverse fork engages in the reverse gear slot, not behind its lip. It's simple enough.

The position of the 1st/2nd fork on its shaft is critical, at least on later boxes. I think I included the measurement in my blog articles, but it is included in the LR manual and, if I remember correctly, the Haynes manual supplemental section at the back.

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I can't find a picture of my warn selector but I have found one showing them in place but with the cover off.

Actually the detent springs are also removed but not the two little locating dowels that you can see in the groove towards the rear of the rods. The detent springs, ball bearings and those dowels all need to be carefully removed before you disturb the selectors. Otherwise you'll be searching in the most awkward places for them, including inside the 'box.

post-105237-0-16006600-1443812394_thumb.jpg

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Those are not locating dowels but interlocks - they prevent the simultaneous selection of two gears by acting on a cross-pin in the middle shaft; there is only enough room for one shaft to clear an interlock at a time, the other having an interlock engaged in the neutral (middle) groove.

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