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engine decarbonising ( wheeler dealers )


carl4953

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After watching the genius that is edd china on wheeler dealers i was interested in the process of engine decarbonizing ( he did it on a jag with massive improvements to the emissions ) from a company called terraclean.

Just wondering if any of you guys have come across it or used it ?

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The general consensus looking at a number of other forums where this has been discussed (one thread has been going on for 6 years now!) is that FridgeFreezer is correct in his assumption.

It may have a small effect but it is mostly clever marketing and a percieved improvement (in one of their videos they even state 'the customer percieves an improvement') you'd do as well to stick a tank of premium/supreme/whatever fuel through your car.

Also as FridgeFreezer states the science is just psuedo science with fancy made up words .... quote from another forum 'Columbic fractionation is more b*****ks than the L - casei immunitas in my yoghurt.'

Save your money :)

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What was that stuff we spoke about on here once (in the defender forum i think) that you spray into the air intake and it helps clear muck out form the head/chambers. A few people on the thread i am thinking of rated it (but i dont beleive it was that expensive either)

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I'm also with Mr Fridge, in the past I have issues with dirty fuel whilst overseas and as well as changing the filter I stuck some slick 50 injector cleaner in the tank.

Again it may have been a placebo effect and time may have had the same results but it seemed to do the job and the truck ran a lot better afterwards.

What issues do you have?

Jason.

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EPA's website has tonnes of them:

http://www.epa.gov/o...mer/reports.htm

Worth noting that Terraclean have *hired* Ed China to be their mouthpiece - they say "He was so impressed he's now promoting Terraclean...", presumably impressed by being handed a load of cash to lend dubious "credibility" to their product. However you slice it, he's on their payroll.

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Here's my two-pence-worth:

I have done many "de-cokes" on my Mini and MG engines over the years by removing the cylinder head. What I've found is that, whilst some of the carbon deposits on the combustion chambers might be quite soft, the majority of it is extremely hard - and in the case of the deposits that form up the stem of the exhaust valves, more like cement than carbon. I have to use wire brushes, metal scrapers, and all sorts. There is no way that a simple chemical will remove those sorts of deposits, apart from concentrated battery acid, and you wouldn't want to put that in your petrol tank!

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Interesting reading, normally i stick to regular servicing, and fuel tank treatments. As this is my first landrover ( 03 td4 kalahari )we need to ensure its running as well as it can, i have had plenty of experience with army land rovers 90 & 110 and they seemed to run for ever but in the 3 months we have had our td4 the list of problems have been unreal, thankfuly nothing mechanical so far ! but after a complete sunroof including motor, 2 window regulators, a new rear door handle and filling in rusted holes in the tail gate i want to try and minimise any further problems if at all possible

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I have found a company about 30 miles away from me, but they charge £90 for this service. I am considering having it done as the garage says they will do an emissions test before this machine goes on and after it has done its job to show the difference. But would love to hear from someone who has maybe had this done already.

I watched it being done on wheeler dealers and they showed the before and after results. But would like to hear it from someone else too.

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carl - sounds like you've had all the usual ones then. As long as the engine is serviced including the PCV filter (very important, often missed, search on here for info) and the viscous coupling isn't seized you should be fine. I'd be tempted to fit an EGR blanking kit and check the turbo vacuum pipe & intercooler hoses for splits (common) too.

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i have fitted a new cabin filter, air filter, turbo breather filter and am waiting for a set of torx sockets through the post before i can fit the crank case breather then i just need to change the oil then its job done till spring, im looking at using halfords semi synthetic oil @ £20 for 5 liters, after reading the night mares about the under tray i am considering a oil suction pump to suck the oil out, lazy i know but alot less hassle

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i have fitted a new cabin filter, air filter, turbo breather filter and am waiting for a set of torx sockets through the post before i can fit the crank case breather then i just need to change the oil then its job done till spring, im looking at using halfords semi synthetic oil @ £20 for 5 liters, after reading the night mares about the under tray i am considering a oil suction pump to suck the oil out, lazy i know but alot less hassle

Carl - under tray is dead easy, and suction pumps don't get all the crud off the bottom of the sump. You want a 36mm socket for the oil filter, there are special ones at the motor factors/halfords for the purpose. I believe the current guidance is to use FULLY synthetic oil.

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I did think that my self reference all the crud out of the bottom of the engine, in regards to the oil i have looked in the car handbook and they ( land rover ) recomend 10w-15w/40 ACEA A3-B3 which i have found to be semi synth ( in most cases ), I then rang my local Land Rover dealer to which he told me their mechanics use 5w/30 semi ( Conway land Rover ).

On the subject of oil, i was thinking ahead ref Gear/Transfer box oil and front and rear diff oil as these are the things i would change on military Land Rovers, the dealer told me they (diff) are sealed units which can only be topped up ? seems a bit stupid as the car is permanant 4x4. Can any anyone shed any light in relation to locatons of filler/drain plugs and oils needed ?

Thank you for all your help so far

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