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Jacking Points/Axle Stands


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#1 jamesledingham

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 10:00 AM

A very basic question I know.

What is safe to use as a jacking point?

Where would you put (an) axle stand(s)

Any pics would be welcome!!

#2 Lewis

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 01:43 PM

Jacking points with trolley jack or bottle jack -

1) any part of the main chassis rails
2) any chassis outrigger
3 ) any chassis crossmember
4) front bumper
5) diffs (if need to get the wheels off the ground and dont need to work on the suspension, use a bit of wood on the jack to protect the diff)
6) underneath the radius arms/trailing arms on the axles (if you need to tip the car slightly, e.g. when you are changing halfshafts and dont want all the oil to fall out)

Axle stands -

1) any part of the main chassis rails
2) any chassis outrigger
3 ) any chassis crossmember
4) on the axle tubes (front or rear)

When using axle stands use a pair and space evenly across the width of the car, check for stability by rocking the car before lowering the jack completely

Sorry no pictures, but all they would be of is a jack under a land rover and i'm sure we can all imagine/remember what that looks like :rolleyes:

Lewis :)

#3 Cal

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 09:17 PM

Nice reply Lewis - James asked this question on another forum and got some rather unhelpful replies - nice to see this forum wants to help people out rather than take the tiddle cos it's the first time they've gone to jack their landy up.

I don't always understand the techie posts on this forum, but you guys rock B)
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#4 landrover598

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 09:39 PM

I ususall jack the landy up under the diff and put an axle stand under the axle tube as close to the end as possible

Only piccie i've got, the small jack is to lift the diff into possition, i use a 4ton trolley jack for the landy

Attached File  01.jpg   65.88KB   206 downloads


Edit: found another piccie, Axle stands under the chassis rails, to allow the axle to hang free

Attached File  full_travel_side.jpg   62.5KB   186 downloads
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#5 western

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 09:46 PM

also before jacking the vehicle, even if it's just to change a wheel/tyre, the Defender owners handbook says 'apply park brake, engage 1st gear & low range & engage diff lock [fully engaged when the dash warning light is on] always chock the wheels fore & aft except for the wheel ['s] that will be lifted clear of the ground,
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#6 Gromit

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Posted 06 February 2007 - 02:16 PM

6) underneath the radius arms/trailing arms on the axles (if you need to tip the car slightly, e.g. when you are changing halfshafts and dont want all the oil to fall out)



I've always been wary of jacking under the radius arms, as I never thought that that bolt from the radius arm to the axle was designed to take 1/4 or 1/2 the weight of the truck.
But, hey if someone who knows more than me says it ok, then that'd be handy, as it's much less of a reach to the arm than it is to the axle.
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#7 Lewis

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Posted 06 February 2007 - 02:30 PM

I've always been wary of jacking under the radius arms, as I never thought that that bolt from the radius arm to the axle was designed to take 1/4 or 1/2 the weight of the truck.
But, hey if someone who knows more than me says it ok, then that'd be handy, as it's much less of a reach to the arm than it is to the axle.

Radius arm is attached to the axle by 2x 8.8grade M16 bolts, the 8.8 part tells you how many tonnes per square mm (IIRC) the bolt can withstand before shearing (IIRC, it could be tension). Anyways, the calcs will tell you that they will easily withstand the weight of the whole truck

A proper adult will be along shortly to correct me no-doubt :)

#8 AndyT

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Posted 04 April 2008 - 07:26 PM

Jacking points with trolley jack or bottle jack -

1) any part of the main chassis rails
2) any chassis outrigger
3 ) any chassis crossmember
4) front bumper
5) diffs (if need to get the wheels off the ground and dont need to work on the suspension, use a bit of wood on the jack to protect the diff)
6) underneath the radius arms/trailing arms on the axles (if you need to tip the car slightly, e.g. when you are changing halfshafts and dont want all the oil to fall out)

Lewis :)



I'm a newbie so please bear with me...

I need to change a tyre on my land rover 90, which I've only had for a fortnight (it's my first) and the things I've read make me nervous about just using the simple jack that came with it, it's bog standard. Do you think the original jack will be sufficient for a simple tyre change?
My next question is where should I jack it up using this? As it's not a bottle or trolley jack do the same places apply as per Lewis' post above?

Sorry for sounding so girlie, but I just have no idea where to start and couldn't find anything in the workshop manual about jacking points.

Any advice appreciated, thanks.
Andy

#9 western

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Posted 04 April 2008 - 07:39 PM

no probs Andy, under the front bumper you should find 2 rectangular rubber bungs & in the rear crossmember you'll see 2 more circular holes these are the standard 90/110 jack points, on the front take out these rubber bung/s for which side you want to lift. then next step is -----------

also before jacking the vehicle, even if it's just to change a wheel/tyre, the Defender owners handbook says 'apply park brake, engage 1st gear & low range & engage diff lock [fully engaged when the dash warning light is on] always chock the wheels fore & aft except for the wheel ['s] that will be lifted clear of the ground


then slide the jack round fitting into the hole & set it up to lift, just lift the tyre so it's clear of the ground & allows you to remove/fit the wheel/tyre assembly. also do not leave the vehicle unattended while the jack is holding the weight.
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#10 AndyT

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Posted 04 April 2008 - 07:49 PM

no probs Andy, under the front bumper you should find 2 rectangular rubber bungs & in the rear crossmember you'll see 2 more circular holes these are the standard 90/110 jack points, on the front take out these rubber bung/s for which side you want to lift. then next step is -----------



then slide the jack round fitting into the hole & set it up to lift, just lift the tyre so it's clear of the ground & allows you to remove/fit the wheel/tyre assembly. also do not leave the vehicle unattended while the jack is holding the weight.



Western,

Thanks so much, that's exactly the information and reassurance I needed. I now feel supremely confident in attempting my first bit of land rover maintenance, albeit a simple tyre change... one step at a time eh!

Cheers,
Andy

#11 western

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Posted 04 April 2008 - 07:57 PM

also undo the wheelnuts 1 full turn before jacking up the tyre from the ground. take your time & do not go under the vehicle while it's jacked up.
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#12 AndyT

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Posted 04 April 2008 - 08:04 PM

also undo the wheelnuts 1 full turn before jacking up the tyre from the ground. take your time & do not go under the vehicle while it's jacked up.


Will do - in fact getting the wheel nuts off is my biggest concern, being a bit of a girl... literally ;-) I shall have a can of WD40 to hand!

Andy (or Andrea to my mum)!

#13 ThreePointFive

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Posted 04 April 2008 - 08:10 PM

Radius arm is attached to the axle by 2x 8.8grade M16 bolts, the 8.8 part tells you how many tonnes per square mm (IIRC) the bolt can withstand before shearing (IIRC, it could be tension). Anyways, the calcs will tell you that they will easily withstand the weight of the whole truck

A proper adult will be along shortly to correct me no-doubt :)

I think it's measured in NM not tonnes.. I can't remember how it's worked out, but a 10mmx60mm (I think) 10.9 HT bolt can take 69 tonnes... don't quote me on that!
I only learned that after a quite embarrising conversation about bolts with a guy who knew his onions at a bolt shop.

How do you jack up both wheels on an axle at once? I have a pair of 2 tonne axle stands and on the box it says don't have the stand at one end and the jack on the other end, so how do you lift both ends simultaneously and then put a pair of stands under them? My guess is you can't, with one jack?
Since I heard a nasty cracking noise when I used the rear jacking points I'm doing all my jacking on the axle, as I only do it to change wheels over anyway... that was worrying, and while some of it has had welding attention I still don't trust it enough to be working around it while it's jacked up using the cross member holes.

1988 Land Rover 90 3.5 Carb V8 to 4.0 MS


#14 western

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Posted 04 April 2008 - 08:17 PM

When I need to lift 2 wheels clear, I lift one end place the axle stand & then lift the other end & place the 2nd axle stand as soon as possible, then lower the weight onto both, never had any problems doing it that way.
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#15 mmgemini

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Posted 05 April 2008 - 07:00 AM

Andy.
A couple of tips.

Before you start to undo the wheel nut.
Take the spare out and place it under the vehicle. Just in case it decides to drop....

Throw the Land Rover wheel brace away and buy an impact type deep socket along with a good knuclke bar. Then aquire a length of pipe that will slide along the knuckle bar to make an extension bar. You shouldn't have any difficulty.

Always torque the wheel nuts up after changing a wheel. If you have to change one at the roadside then torque up as soon as possible.

HTH

mike
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#16 western

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Posted 05 April 2008 - 09:37 AM

Will do - in fact getting the wheel nuts off is my biggest concern, being a bit of a girl... literally ;-) I shall have a can of WD40 to hand!

Andy (or Andrea to my mum)!



Hi Andy -- a even bigger welcome then, :D good to have the girls joining in too. probably won't need the WD40 for taking the wheelnuts off, & just before refitting them add a small spot of oil [something like 3 in 1] to the stud threads & as you tighten the nuts it'll spread the oil along the threads & help removal next time.

I use one of these wheel braces
http://www.johncradd....asp?prodid=193 with a suitable internal diameter extension tube to fit the handle say about 3 foot [1 meter] long, you shouldn't have any problems.
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#17 dantd5

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Posted 05 April 2008 - 08:58 PM

I must admit that I am a " noobie" in the Landy world but :huh: take extreme precautions when going underneath the "monster" of a car.. Def 110 td5 99 model.... My worst fear is to end up in a bloodpool... I have my phone next to me and support it on 3 stands. I always assume the first one will miss and the 2nd will take the weight and if that misses the 3rd can tolerate the rest... It is not that easy though.....grrrrrrr :blink: .. U should simply see me going under ,,,, It is a scary business.. I wonder if anyone has been WELL SANDWICHED under a Landy...... :o Hope I am not giving readers the creeps.. :rolleyes:
Electrickery. PRoblem was deep horn trafikator switch. I changed it and vips all was working again!!
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#18 AndyT

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 03:56 PM

Well, I did it! My first foray underneath my 90 (well almost underneath).

My jack worked really well and was so easy to fathom (as was the front bumper jacking point - thanks Western). My jack had a racheted handle which made life easier and seemed very sturdy, although I will look into getting something a bit more meaty for future jobs and a pair of axel stands I think.

I did need help to loosen the wheel nuts initially, but everything else was plain sailing. However... I did make the mistake of putting the spare wheel nuts on top of the number plate light housing as I took them off assuming they'd be easy to find when I put the punctured wheel back on the rear door. Once changed I decided to simply throw the puntured wheel in the back... and forgot to collect the wheel nuts from on top of the light housing - DOH! Amazingly only one fell off on the journey to the tyre garage!

All-in-all I feel far more confident now about attempting whatever comes next - so a very big thank you to all of you for such really useful advice.

Andy.

#19 western

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 04:35 PM

Glad it all went well & you had a successful mission. if you need a replacement wheelnut the LR part number is NTC7396 :D

when you get round to buying axle stands & trolley jack, go for items with a minimum of 2 tonnes rating.
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