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** MegaSquirting a V8 - "Basics of How to" ... The A-Z Saga


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How do I tell if my lambda sensors are knackered. ( I am currently squirted ) I have changed the current sensors over ( apparently MS only wants one ) and it doesn't seem any different. ( Air fuel dial is shaded all red in a bad way )

If they are knackered is the best thing to buy new "old" lambda sensors and plug them in ?

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Any body give me a shopping list for MS n edis'n a 4.2??? Please????

I know I'll need a couple of ford DIS coils

What do I need on the MS front?

I'd preffer to go for a ready built control unit. Auto Electrics are no problem (its what I do) but time is very short and MS is a whole new thing to me so as much plug n play as poss would be cool.

I havn't seen the 4.2 yet and its a very long time since I did anything with them, Is there anywhere to hang a C.A.S? or will I have to Fab all that?

Cheers.

Steve.

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Not sure you can do it on the later vehicles because of all the ECUs talking to each other.

So FF does not have to bear the embarrassment of waving his own flag I will tell you that he can supply all the items you will need.

Steve

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So FF does not have to bear the embarrassment of waving his own flag I will tell you that he can supply all the items you will need.

I'm not proud, I'll wave my own flag and blow my own trumpet for the right money these days - hard times and all that! :unsure:

Any body give me a shopping list for MS n edis'n a 4.2??? Please????

MegaSquirt ECU, modded for EDIS, and before Nige says it also modded for a PWM idle valve. (I supply them built like this as default these days)

An EDIS-8 unit (I supply these)

A trigger wheel (either Ford bodged on there or laser cut from Trigger-wheels.com, saves a bit of faffing)

A crank sensor from a Ford (I can supply or you can whip one from the scrappy, it's a Torx bit usually)

A lambda sensor welded into the exhaust (I can supply or you can whip one from the scrappy, LSE lump will probably have the boss in the exhaust and maybe even a sensor or two already)

A vacuum connection to the ECU (teeing into the fuel pressure reg's feed is easy, I can supply T and tube)

You can use the existing loom, or I can supply a complete new one. Easier than trying to solder a 15 year-old loom to a D connector in the footwell of a Land Rover is to have a 18" wiring tail from me and splice that to the OE loom.

You'll need a bracket for the coils (most people nick the Ford one and hack them about, trigger-wheels.com sell laser-cut ones but they're strong money for a bit of bent plate)

You need a bracket for the crank sensor (again, trigger-wheels sell them but they're spensive for a bent bit of tin, however nicely lasered they are)

Ideally you need something to tune it with and a 9-pin serial cable, I can supply serial cables but you need to find your own laptop :P

I can do the whole install if you really want but I do have a waiting list (oh what it is to be in demand, darling!) :rolleyes:

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Thanks, No need for the install, I'll do it as I build. I would like to buy a complete kit tho, so I don't have to search for stuff causing hold-ups!

I'm just about to part with some cash for the motor, I really want the V8 as I love the power delivery but must confess to being a little nervous of its ability to run submerged (not just splashing about), I know people sing the praises of MS but ive never seen it in action personally. If I had I think I'd be happier. As soon as I know I'll be in touch for the necessary bits.

Cheers.

Steve.

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Another question.. I have LPG fitted to my bobtail and im told the EDIS8 will still work even if the MS1 SnE is disconected, so in theory i can run the LPG with the EDIS8 in "default mode" ie: 10 dbtdc. But i realise that you need the MS1 SnE to advance the timing higher up the rev range. So has anyone a map to run LPG on MS1 SnE or any suggestions as to the best way to maybe stop the pulse to the injectors or just set the DC to 0... Because the LPG is not injected there is not much scope for great performance inprovements but as the bobtail is my daily driver i might get it to at least run alot better than it does on carbs and a dizzy, then i can afford to blast about on petrol from time to time (only within the legal limits). :ph34r:

Jeff

This is exactly what i do. With the MS disconnected (or broken) i can switch to LPG and run on 10deg fixed.

For my LPG map i use the petrol map with 10 deg added to all bins.

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Help..I'm confused.

On the first page of this thread there is a cct diag supplied by Mr FF.

It shows the EDIS connections as:-

MS DB37 Pin 24 to EDIS pin 3 for the SAW signal

MS DB37 Pin 30 to EDIS pin 1 for the PIP signal

But if I look in the megamanual here http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

It says SAW is connected to MS DB37 Pin 36

Elsewhere in the manual it says pin 30 is for FIdle

Steve

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I think it's possible with the table switching option to have an "empty" fuel table, the other option is that the table switching switch also shuts down the power feed to the injectors.

FF, I have duel tables in the ECU so i will try the "empty" fuel table and see how it performs. When the car starts form cold, how will the PMW idle valve add the extra fuel if the map is "empty" so to speak, will i have to play with the startup values? The engine is going in to the car on Monday and i need it to be up and running by Thursday at the latest as im sposed to be in Deal Kent on Friday to Meet SWMBO and kids at the holyday camp... no pressure then :ph34r:

This is exactly what i do. With the MS disconnected (or broken) i can switch to LPG and run on 10deg fixed.

For my LPG map i use the petrol map with 10 deg added to all bins.

Hoss, i will try this as well, thanks. :D

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When the car starts form cold, how will the PMW idle valve add the extra fuel if the map is "empty" so to speak, will i have to play with the startup values?

The PWM idle valve adds AIR not FUEL, it's just as if you've put your foot down a bit and let some air in. The MS controls this in its spare time, the fuel is corrected by the normal operation of the MS, more air in = more fuel squirted, your LPG system should do the same.

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The PWM idle valve adds AIR not FUEL, it's just as if you've put your foot down a bit and let some air in. The MS controls this in its spare time, the fuel is corrected by the normal operation of the MS, more air in = more fuel squirted, your LPG system should do the same.

Cheers for that Fridge. I will be looking at sequencial injection for the LPG in the near future so its controlled by the MS or maybe common rail injection. It will be run by the MS some how but i have got to get the LPG man in the pub and ply him with fruit based drinks and see what he thinks... :lol:

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Also on the PWM as it adds the air to raise the RPM the Point moves on the VE Table so you in effect gain the Fuel too (if you table is set properly to have the columns available) :) Also don't forget the WUE (warm up process) where there is a seperate table that adds % of fuel to the MAP point for it being cold, these 2 things then link together to have a start up from cold with a higher rpm dropping as it gets warmer to std tickover and VE Table :)

Nige

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Is there any reason other than availability people use the Ford Coils? Ive never been a fan of the ford DIS coils and have replaced so many ive lost count. I do have access to a set of disco2 V8 coils, any reason not to use them?

Never had a problem with Ford coils. Reasons to use them:

- EDIS was designed for them

- They have totally waterproof connections, on both the LT and HT sides

- They're dirt cheap and plentiful at the scrappy

Reasons not to use LR coils:

- They're less reliable

- They're not as well sealed

- They're about £eeeek to replace

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Never had a problem with Ford coils. Reasons to use them:

- EDIS was designed for them

- They have totally waterproof connections, on both the LT and HT sides

- They're dirt cheap and plentiful at the scrappy

Reasons not to use LR coils:

- They're less reliable

- They're not as well sealed

- They're about £eeeek to replace

That answers that then, Ford Coils it'll be then.

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Some people do say the gen1 Ford coils (the most waterproof ones) are less reliable, although I've not seen this born out in practice. Perhaps they fail more on actual Fords where they're mounted to the side of the block, whereas on a Rover V8 the traditional "above the water pump" mount probably gives them a bit more free air, not to mention lower revs.

Also interesting* is that the American coil pack connectors aren't sealed anywhere near as well as the UK/EU ones.

* = Actual interestingness may vary.

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* = Actual interestingness may vary.

Really, ?

I'm amazed that anyone wouldn't be truly encapsulated and in awe at this information :blink:

:rofl:

Nige

PS

Team "Fridge n Nige MS Fit n Tune it" have just completed a 4.6 90 for a forum member Jon Beagley........... :rolleyes: .

The owner commented to Nige - after near a days solid tuning (at around 5200+ rpm in top gear) how his 90 V8 had NEVER gone this fast and had this much power...

......a few seconds later the autobox let out a big bang, the 90 jumped and the back end moved sideways :blink: some ATF escaped and the 90 V8 was then fethered and limped home :rofl:

MS now sorted............... its a Autobox next weekend :)

Kin goes well tho :rofl:

Even more stunning and stupid* is owner JB mentioned he has a wetsuit and is thinking of wearing it to test out the MS waterproofness :rofl: .....

Watch this space

Nige

*Er....Maybe not to MS fans who will be entralled and fasinated at any video / pics / story :) - after all this would be classified as "Serious Research" :rofl:

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Some people do say the gen1 Ford coils (the most waterproof ones) are less reliable, although I've not seen this born out in practice. Perhaps they fail more on actual Fords where they're mounted to the side of the block, whereas on a Rover V8 the traditional "above the water pump" mount probably gives them a bit more free air, not to mention lower revs.

Also interesting* is that the American coil pack connectors aren't sealed anywhere near as well as the UK/EU ones.

* = Actual interestingness may vary.

If you mean the 3 pin feed from ECU then in my experience both UK and US ones are sealed the same way BUT the rubbery sealing bit generally sits on the loom connector for UK coil packs and in the coil pack itself on US ones.

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Fridge!!! Help!!! Had a chat with HFH this morning and it came up that my firmware in my ECU is 029y and i should speak to your good self about changing it to 029v as this is what you are all running and the MSq files that you BBC and HFH have are for this version. What do you need from me and how do i do it! :unsure:

Jeff

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Easy tiger!

  • Download compressed.gif029v.zip
  • Unzip it (preferably to a folder)
  • With your ECU connected to the PC/laptop and with a power source, double-click "download-firmware-V8.bat" and follow the instructions. (make soure you use the v8 version not just "download-firmware.bat" as the temperature sensor settings will be wrong.
  • You are not upgrading from standard code, so say "no" to that, it should then download the firmware to the ECU.
  • You'll need to put your settings back in with MegaTune afterwards, so save them before you start!

For those starting with a standard MS board (I.E not running ignition, just the stock firmware), you say "Yes" to "Upgrading from standard", you must then take the lid off the ECU and short the BOOT jumper/pins next to the CPU and switch it on before you can download the firmware. The upgraded firmware can be re-uploaded without touching the BOOT jumper.

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