Jump to content

Diff lock selector mechanism - Alternatives?


fruity

Recommended Posts

I recently had to change the LT77 (for a recon unit built into an early casing) in the 100" and my ongoing quest for an early diff lock linkage seems to be drawing a blank (yes, I know I could probably get one from CWS but I just can't bring myself to fund Colins ongoing Nascar style "habit") so......................

In the absence of the propper linkage, and not wishing to start tapping holes in the LT77 casing has anyone got any clever ideas as to how I could temporarily/permenantly rig up a mechanism to engage/disengage the difflock on the LT230 using easily found bits and bobs???

No compressor on board, but a healthy supply of vacuum, and a pair of mole grips and a hole cut in the floor has already been suggested and dismissed!

Bye for now,

Jonathan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently had to change the LT77 (for a recon unit built into an early casing) in the 100" and my ongoing quest for an early diff lock linkage seems to be drawing a blank (yes, I know I could probably get one from CWS but I just can't bring myself to fund Colins ongoing Nascar style "habit") so......................

In the absence of the propper linkage, and not wishing to start tapping holes in the LT77 casing has anyone got any clever ideas as to how I could temporarily/permenantly rig up a mechanism to engage/disengage the difflock on the LT230 using easily found bits and bobs???

No compressor on board, but a healthy supply of vacuum, and a pair of mole grips and a hole cut in the floor has already been suggested and dismissed!

Bye for now,

Jonathan.

Hmm, this could be a good thread. I've resorted to long screw driver from underneath the vehicle on my 110 but that's not a good day to day solution. Air or elec selenoid could be an option or even something slightly more upmarket than molegrips that just fits to the top of the acutator shaft that you could just twist lock/unlock. Need to take a look at the box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the absence of the propper linkage, and not wishing to start tapping holes in the LT77 casing has anyone got any clever ideas as to how I could temporarily/permenantly rig up a mechanism to engage/disengage the difflock on the LT230 using easily found bits and bobs???

I've suggested this before for something else, but worth a mention.

How about closed loop hydrailic?

Use a pair of small Pneumatic rams, filled with ATF and connected together so than when you move one ram, the other moves.

Attach one to gearbox and the other to somewhere convenient to operate. You could even put a knob on the end of the ram and have a push/pull on the knob to engage/disengage.

The rams will hold air pressure for a long time and with something as thick as ATF, they will not leak or need bleeding. You are only pressurising the system when you are changing in or out, the rest of the time the pressure is neutral - so no gradual leaks.

I've seen hydraulic steering done like this as well as linkages to rear-engine trialers.

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm still working on this one, so this should take it up to the top :D

I must confess that I was never too happy with the old arrangement as the diff lock selector always seemed a bit vague (even after adjustment) and left me wanting to hold the lever "in" diff lock on steep ascents and decents "just to be sure". If I can sort a good reliable solution now it'll be another thing not to worry about (bout now Bish will tell me to go viscous tranny box :P ).

Whilst closed circuit hydraulics sound rather swish, without someone giving me a shopping list and instructions (if you want to, simon, I'll give it a go :unsure: ) it's probably a little beyond me (the only thing I am good at doing with oil is inadvertantly wearing it :angry: ). The cost of new parts also looks prohibitive - anyone know of a source for cheap or second hand?

Anyway, I've rooted about a bit and found the Ashcroft Disco 2 manual diff lock conversion, which doesn't look a lot more than a bowden cable and a bit of jim-crackery (a very expensive bit of jim-crackery at £200, but probably beautifully made).

So this got me to thinking - anyone know where you can get heavy duty bowden cables (apart from handbrake cables - bit too heavy duty, not very flexible, and only really made to work in one direction) and any other bit's I might need?

T.I.A.

Jonathan.

P.S. in a moment of daydreaming, I got to thinking that a little switch on top of the tranny box lever to switch the lock in and out (a la GKN overdrive) would look rather spoofy, am I becoming obsessed with un-necessary toys now?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So this got me to thinking - anyone know where you can get heavy duty bowden cables (apart from handbrake cables - bit too heavy duty, not very flexible, and only really made to work in one direction) and any other bit's I might need?

Morse Cables as used a lot on boats for throttle & gear lever linkages sound like what you're after.

might be useful

or here though the specify 1m to 7.5m in 0.25m steps.

HTH

Luke

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy