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Internal bulkhead removal: halfway or the whole hog?


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#1 friday

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 01:15 AM

Being a bit on the skinny side (thanks to my lovely Crohns you could play me like a Xylophone :D ;)) I'm finding the stock seats pretty uncomfortable on long journeys (and even short ones TBH). Because of this, I've sourced a pair of more comfortable seats and, fingers crossed, they'll be going in our 90. However, although my better half will probably find the new driving position quite good (she's short), I think I'm going to find it quite cramped (I'm tall...ish ;)). So, I've been looking into removing the internal bulkhead so I can recline them to a better angle.

I've had a look at the two "off the shelf" items from MUD and Protection and Performance and, although ideal, they're a fair bit of cash. After having a chat to one of the fabricators I know, and him telling me he could make something up to do the job quite easily I thought I'd ask what people would recommend: only lose half the bulkhead or go the whole hog? Also, are there any photos around of the removal process? I'm a bit wary of taking a bloomin' great chunk out of an integral part so it would be great to see or hear how other people have gone about it before I crack on. I'm not planning on fitting a roof rack and carrying huge weights on it and I'll ask for as sturdy a bar as it's possible to get (if anyone has any ideas on the design of the bar itself feel free to share :)).

Cheers,

Leigh.

#2 NicTheOrange90

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Posted 14 November 2007 - 09:38 PM

I got a MUD bar and then got to try out my new reciprocating saw and the scroll saw blades on my jigsaw.

I can only praise the MUD bar, it leaves a nice tidy finish, and maintains strength to the B pillars.

Im almost 2m tall and have a set of Alfa Spyder seats in my 90. You can either purchase a set of MUD bars or fabricate something yourself to allow your seat to go back on its runners that bit further past the seam on the seatbox/bulkhead.

Have std but recovered seats in the 110, with a fabricated seat rail system that picked up std holes on the seat box and then moved the seat 4 inches further back.

Combined with QT steering wheel/boss (or just get the boss from QT and fit a MOMO steering wheel to it) I can get in and out of both with ease.

I do however find the location of the parking brake a pain when its down, this means there is no comfy place for my left leg.

Be warned about taking the driver seat too far back as gearchanges can become tricky as the lever is still forward, this can be turned on the spline or changed, but then if any other drivers get in, they might find it a problem!!
Respectfully,




Nic Wood

#3 friday

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Posted 15 November 2007 - 12:30 AM

I got a MUD bar and then got to try out my new reciprocating saw and the scroll saw blades on my jigsaw.

I can only praise the MUD bar, it leaves a nice tidy finish, and maintains strength to the B pillars.

Im almost 2m tall and have a set of Alfa Spyder seats in my 90. You can either purchase a set of MUD bars or fabricate something yourself to allow your seat to go back on its runners that bit further past the seam on the seatbox/bulkhead.

Have std but recovered seats in the 110, with a fabricated seat rail system that picked up std holes on the seat box and then moved the seat 4 inches further back.

Combined with QT steering wheel/boss (or just get the boss from QT and fit a MOMO steering wheel to it) I can get in and out of both with ease.

I do however find the location of the parking brake a pain when its down, this means there is no comfy place for my left leg.

Be warned about taking the driver seat too far back as gearchanges can become tricky as the lever is still forward, this can be turned on the spline or changed, but then if any other drivers get in, they might find it a problem!!

Thanks for that Nic. :) I think I might now be going for the "halfway" route to be honest! Funnily enough I've got a second hand MOMO wheel sitting across from me right now which I got off Ebay for the Landy for the very same reason (the boss should hopefully arrive by next week). Still a bit nervous at "having at" the bulkhead but, in for a penny, in for a pound and all that! :)

#4 A Twig

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Posted 15 November 2007 - 11:38 AM

It might just be me but I don't get the issues people have with fitting....
I'm 6'5" - drive a 94 Defender 90, and fit in and out, and drive as comfortably as can be expected on long motorway drivers in a Defender...

#5 Milemarker Type S

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 11:40 AM

Anyone made their own bulkhead removal bar? Any piccys/ diagrams??

Someone took to mine with a hungry rat prior to be buying and left it somewhat of a mess...

The MUD one looks good but I think too much of mine may have already been removed for it to fit properly- although I have got a new chequer bulkhead cover (another thing I still have not got round to) that could be cut to fit the new one and fill any gaps left behind...

Shrek
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#6 Meatslicer

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 05:04 AM

I have been looking at this too for my 1988 110. I am 5' 11" tall but I dont think height so much as leg/body proportion is a problem. I find the driving position in the current set up pretty cramped and getting out is a bit of a struggle with the standard LR 4 spoke steering wheel.

I have checked the rear bulkhead and have come to the conclusion that I will be making up an extension plate. This will be mounted behind the drivers side seat and will sit on the top of the side panel where the original bulk head is attached, with a shelf plate extending behind the seat sloping down to the floor pan and then sloping up again to the passenger side, giving access to the rear load area.

I intend fitting front facing rangerover seats as a second row, staggered to allow access from the rear and the front so I can use the vehicle as a camper and general off roader.

As I chop it about I'll post pictures so you can see what I mean.

Eric

#7 Orgasmic Farmer

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 09:06 AM

When i did mine I took it down to half height. I had the cappings off at the time so modified them and had then re=galvanised. The top capping from the bulkhead was reused and I fabricated a couple of intermediate cappings to join it all up together.

Pics

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The cut out on the side capping is to allow the fitting of an internal roll hoop at some stage.

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It's the job you never start that always takes the longest to finish.

 

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#8 Meatslicer

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 11:19 AM

Yup, that's what I am planning too. Looks neat

Wric




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