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cam belt change- im so glad!


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Hi all- new 90 owner here! well ive had the 95 300tdi 90 for about a month now! Loving the car- always wanted one! MIne has covered 95k, unfortunatly doesnt have any history but sounds sweet and drives spot on, i went about the cam belt change on sat followed the guide on here- very good! - boy am i glad i did- it was shredded! only about 2/3rds of the belt left and it was heavily cracked- once off i bent it back on itself and it snapped! very lucky i feel! I replaced it with a kit- so new tensioner, idler, crankshaft gear etc! so hopefully all will be well for a few more thousand miles!

If you dont know when yours was last changed- get it done pronto!

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Your timing case is most likely warped a bit. Put the cover on a sheet of glass to check. You should then change the timing case as well, but the best thing is to do your cambelt more often. We do ours at 60 000 kms because of the hot weather.

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if you have a walking timing belt and the old type of timing cover and want to sort this out without buying the STC4095L £230 kit .

this is what i have found to work very well and minimal belt walking .

first i did the pump bracket mods etc and also aligned the injector pump and pulleys with a DTI dial indicator so the pump pulley is running true .

initial finds with first belt change and no mods = lost 6mm of belt width in 10,000 miles

after mods to pump bracket and align pump and pulley = lost 3mm of belt width in 10,000 miles .

decided to look further and modify/try other parts .

fitted these parts and no belt walking in 5000 miles since last belt change , belt is full width and no step formed on edge as was found in early stages .

these are parts i used , all fit in and underneath standard 1st style of 300tdi front timing cover .

yes i know it has the lipped idler and lipped crank socket which is different to the normal routes taken but these parts are fitted in my 1995 300tdi and all work fine , all fit ok and zero belt walking .

i drive vehicle every day and have fitted 2 belts to it in this configuration in 5000miles , due to my rebuilding cylinder head and fitting new head gasket over xmas , at which time i also renewed timing belt as matter of course whilst radiator was removed , this also gave me chance to check the installed timing belt and pulleys/gears and to check that all parts fitted were working ok , which they were .

ERR1092 TIMING BELT £10.52

ERR1972 BELT TENSIONER [early stlye with lipped edge ] £20.68

ETC8560 IDLER PULLEY £23.73

LHH100660 LIPPED CRANK SPROCKET [ solid one piece style] £15.57

ERR7293 FRONT COVER GASKET £3.80

ERR4576 FRONT COVER SEAL £1.59

hope this info is of use .

ian

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i went about the cam belt change on sat followed the guide on here- very good! - boy am i glad i did- it was shredded!

Hi Tommac - how long did it take you and were there any problems? - I need to do mine too but not sure I'm confident stripping the whole thing down.... Did you also use a Haynes manual or is the LR4x4 guide complete?

Advice appreciated for us cambelt virgins!

Simon

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Bought the kit from brookwells- landy parts place in newton abbot, devon.

Simon- no problems- just take your time- i invested in a puller to remove the crank pulley- worked a treat. just make sure you check and double check everything! I used les's guide from here and it was spot on! No need for a haynes.

Good luck!

Tom

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cheers Tom, thanks for the encouragement, I've taken the plunge and ordered the kit to do myself - can't be that tricky! On Les's advice ordered the Bearmach kit, comes in at £70 +VAT + the other seals

Tom - were there any differences using Les's guide (which I think is for a Disco) on your Defender? Was it easy enough with the rad in place?

That's my Saturday lined up then!

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cheers Tom, thanks for the encouragement, I've taken the plunge and ordered the kit to do myself - can't be that tricky! On Les's advice ordered the Bearmach kit, comes in at £70 +VAT + the other seals

Tom - were there any differences using Les's guide (which I think is for a Disco) on your Defender? Was it easy enough with the rad in place?

That's my Saturday lined up then!

where did you get the Bearmach kit from?

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Good lad, you will be fine! my kit was similar money- paid £68 + vat! I did it with the rad in place- just have to look carefully at timing marks- i checked them using a ruler to line across the two. only difference in my case was no air con pulley- only affects the dissassembly of serpentine belt, once you at the cam belt all is the same!

I also scratched my head when removing the old crankshaft cog- i used 3 screws i had in the garage- screwed them into it then used the puller to remove it! It's not a hard job just have to check everything!

best of british to you!

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Couple of queries for Les, the fountain of all cambelt knowledge please....

So I can make my own puller tool in readiness, what is the distance between the two bolt holes in the bar? Presumably the pulley has threaded holes already in (can't think how this works otherwise)

I don't get the bit about the 10mm drill bit being inserted - is this to stop the fuel pump moving or something? Haynes manual says don't move the crank or camshaft once the old belt is off (for obvious reasons) but do any of the other pulley wheels need to be locked down? Where is the hole to insert the drill bit?

Is the Tippex just to make the timing marks easier to see?

Thanks

Simon

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