RustyNissanPrairie Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Take tired drooping original hinges, knock out hinge pin from underneath and seperate hinge halves. Lightly run a countersinking bit into either end of the bulkhead hinge pin holes to help centre the drill bit/tap Drill the top hole of the bulkhead half to 8mm (the top half of the hinge looking downwards), and drill the door part of the hinge also to 8mm. Drill and tap the lower hole of the bulkhead half to 8*1.25mm Drill a 5mm hole slightly off centre of the hinge pin in the door half so it just breaks into the hinge pin hole, tap to 6mm for a grease nipple. Use a 8mm *80mm cap head screw as the shoulder length is correct for this application (the hinge will swivel on the shoulder part of the bolt rather than any threads), Shorten bolt by approx 10mm before assembling the hinge. Notch the bulkhead half with a grinding disc so the grease nipple has clearance on full opening-not really required if door check straps are working correctly. Not sure how long it'll last but they're slop free and the door shuts nicely at the moment and probably have less slop than some new Britpart replacement! Crappy phone camera pics; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 hope your door check bars are in fine order or a strong gust of wind will kill the grease nipple. neat job though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howard14 Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 A nice robust workmanlike mod. It would still be good without the grease nipple, for those people that know about oil cans. These days I use waterproof trailer wheel-bearing grease for that sort of job (£7.50 a tub), it works well, or even silicone grease at three times the price even better. Thanks for the bolt sizes. Howard. 2x300TdiDef. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 hope your door check bars are in fine order or a strong gust of wind will kill the grease nipple.neat job though. if you notch the bulkhead part there's enough clearance for the grease nipple without having the door check inplace, the hinge locks itself on itself if you know what I mean without touching the grease nipple. This is why you have to offset the grease nipple hole away from the centre line of the hinge pin. I'll take some better pics tomoz now both the upper and lower hinges have been done and put back on the truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howard14 Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 if you notch the bulkhead part there's enough clearance for the grease nipple without having the door check inplace, the hinge locks itself on itself if you know what I mean without touching the grease nipple.This is why you have to offset the grease nipple hole away from the centre line of the hinge pin. I'll take some better pics tomoz now both the upper and lower hinges have been done and put back on the truck. Top man. Howard. 2x300TdiDef. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 if you notch the bulkhead part there's enough clearance for the grease nipple without having the door check inplace, the hinge locks itself on itself if you know what I mean without touching the grease nipple.This is why you have to offset the grease nipple hole away from the centre line of the hinge pin. I'll take some better pics tomoz now both the upper and lower hinges have been done and put back on the truck. good to know you've thought about it & engineered the result to prevent the grease nipple getting damage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Good job, Rusty You'll also be able to remove the doors without losing the door set by removing the pivot bolts and that nearly as big a bonus as salvaging the old hinges Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51bigG Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Would it be possible to do something similar with rear door hinges, I put my spare on the roof rack but the hinges are wrecked anyway, a must do job soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 If you don't want the grease nipples in place all the time (or are worride about them getting damaged) you could unscrew just them and replace with a grub screw or just a bolt of the correct thread- just use the grease nipples at service time to regrease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Would it be possible to do something similar with rear door hinges, I put my spare on the roof rack but the hinges are wrecked anyway, a must do job soon. You already have servicable bits in them ! A new brass ball, screw, spring, nut and tab washer are about a pound per hinge from paddocks. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howard14 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 A nice robust workmanlike mod. It would still be good without the grease nipple, for those people that know about oil cans.These days I use waterproof trailer wheel-bearing grease for that sort of job (£7.50 a tub), it works well, or even silicone grease at three times the price even better. Thanks for the bolt sizes. Howard. 2x300TdiDef. PS. A stainless skt. Hdd. Bolt would make it even better!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51bigG Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 You already have servicable bits in them ! A new brass ball, screw, spring, nut and tab washer are about a pound per hinge from paddocks. Mo Ok thanks, I will order some on monday. Went to dealer to have Disco serviced and they wanted €50 for new ones, did not offer servicable parts. They dont call it rip off Ireland for nothing. Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Ok thanks, I will order some on monday. Went to dealer to have Disco serviced and they wanted €50 for new ones, did not offer servicable parts. They dont call it rip off Ireland for nothing.Graham rear door hinge pin kit or there's usually sets of 3 on ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51bigG Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 rear door hinge pin kit or there's usually sets of 3 on ebay. I looked this morning in land rover section but did not find any. I wiil look again. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 I looked this morning in land rover section but did not find any. I wiil look again.Thanks Here you go rear door hinge pin kit ends today at 17.25, so good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Part1cle Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Excellent idea - thanks, Rusty. The Socket Head Cap Screws should last for years as they are a higher spec steel than ordinary bolts. it will probably be the hinges that wear again. Thanks for the sizes too, most helpful - now where did I put that 8mm drill.... H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51bigG Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Here you go rear door hinge pin kit ends today at 17.25, so good luck. Thanks, found b4 I read your reply, £3.00. Graham. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SacredDog Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 PS. A stainless skt. Hdd. Bolt would make it even better!! I was thinking that maybe a nice stainless mushroom socket head would look really smart Colin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Thanks, found b4 I read your reply, £3.00. Graham. top job, about what i got mine for, just need a nice sunny dry day to fit them now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howard14 Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 I was thinking that maybe a nice stainless mushroom socket head would look really smart Colin. Yeah, with red plastic inserts in the Skts, ORRRR, even L.E.D.S. Howard. 2x300TdiDef. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SacredDog Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Yeah, with red plastic inserts in the Skts, ORRRR, even L.E.D.S. Howard. 2x300TdiDef. Do I detect a hint of sarcasm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howard14 Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Do I detect a hint of sarcasm Of cause you dont, this is how ideas progress; by waves of wild imagination. I saw some lads the other week, and they had led. tyre valve caps, and led. screenwash nozzles!!! I routinly fit little red (captive) grease nipple covers on all sorts of machinery, it shows I care. Very best regards, Howard. 2x300TdiDef. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 I was thinking that maybe a nice stainless mushroom socket head would look really smart Colin. It depends if any other type of bolt has a shoulder/shank long enough, you dont want the hinge pivoting on any threads as this will wear the door part quickly, imagine if you will using a set screw (with no shoulder) instead of a bolt, the 8*80mm has a shoulder just long enough. Plus I nicked them from work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SacredDog Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 It depends if any other type of bolt has a shoulder/shank long enough, you dont want the hinge pivoting on any threads as this will wear the door part quickly, imagine if you will using a set screw (with no shoulder) instead of a bolt, the 8*80mm has a shoulder just long enough. Plus I nicked them from work! Yep, I understand that. These are the type I was thinking of: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M8-x-80-STAINLESS-BU...id=p4634.c0.m14 I know the picture doesn't a shank on the bolt but I think most true bolts over 50mm long have 30mm of thread and the rest is Shank (if memory serves me correctly). I have bought these type before, not sure it was from this seller though, so I will ask the question before I order them. I think they look a little less obtrusive in most applications, the disadvantage of them is that you have very little to get hold of when you round the Hex off. Colin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 Yep, I understand that. These are the type I was thinking of: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M8-x-80-STAINLESS-BU...id=p4634.c0.m14 I know the picture doesn't a shank on the bolt but I think most true bolts over 50mm long have 30mm of thread and the rest is Shank (if memory serves me correctly). I have bought these type before, not sure it was from this seller though, so I will ask the question before I order them. I think they look a little less obtrusive in most applications, the disadvantage of them is that you have very little to get hold of when you round the Hex off. Colin. Let us know what the seller says re shank length, they'd finish the job off nicely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.