white90 Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 The axle in this thread is off a 110, but Series, Disco are the same method. Axle is off the vehicle and already stripped, and the diff pan I am fitting is a heavy duty item. Quite a bit of cutting/grinding to do this, and some careful welding to avoid leaks. Axle casing is on the bench - wire brush or clean around the diff pan, then slice it off with a plasma blade or normal cutting disc. Because of the suspension brackets on the short side of the axle, a small amount has to be cut off from inside. Once the main bowl of the pan is off, you can clean-up and just weld the new pan in place. However, I decided to remove the rest of the pan lip and the original welding, so lots of grinding and then clean-up with a 60-grit flapwheel. There are cut-outs in the main casing that indicate the position of the crownwheel - they will only be just inside the lip of the new pan, so be careful to position the new pan correctly (and the right way up). Clamp the new pan in place (you will need a min 9-inch clamp), and check that it's seated against the housing nice and tight. Good clean earth point. I did a few practice welds to get the right setting on the MIG - the weld has to very good (or at least leak proof). It'll be very difficult to weld all the way round in one go, and if you stretch too far, then it's possible that the weld will become poor. I did this in 4-5" strips with an overlap between the end of the last weld and the start of the next one. A tidy up with an angle grinder/flap wheel will show up any pin holes. Don't grind off too much or the weld will become weak. That's it - bung it back together Les. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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