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#1 td4s

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 07:36 AM

Hi there,

New to this forum and hope your all well.

Cant seem to find issue with my 2003 td4 sport with 25k on the clock. I had 6 year service in October, changed fuel filter, crank breather as well. A month down th road, started to get smoke on 1st Started of day and when warm into 20 mins into drive, hesitant at 1250-1500rpm and smoke. Taken to garage and they said it could be egr. They did not have time and was cheesed off with them as they lied through there teeth, decided to change egr myself. I originally cleaned original one on the car and for a week or so was ok. No smoke on cold start and no hesitancy.

Changed EGR yesterday and on 1st start, no smoke, but later started to get hesitant. Today this morning, quite alot of smoke on cold start. Decided to put millers in as well. Went out and decided to trash it, plenty of black smoke on first few kick downs. Later no smoke on kick downs. Hestitancy started at 1250-1500 rpm and black smoke with it.

Checked Air filter yesterday and seemed brand new.

Any ideas to what it could be? Really getting cheesed off with it now and dont trust any garage with it!

Check hoses along the front of engine bay and no cracks or splits anywhere.

Injector issue? starts fine and ticks over lovely

Crank breather? Been told it has been changed but dont know what to think anymore.

It now has a brand new egr on it

Very upset with the garage as I had a service back in October for a 6 year service. A month later this started. Serveral calls and they said its because of the cold weather. It finally went in January and was told car was clogged up and to drive it hard and smoke would go. I did this for 2 weeks and still the same. Called them back and I was told that they saw EGR was clogged and assume it was this! The truth of the matter they did not have time to check it properly after I had a reservation for that day. With my previous experiences it now raises my alarm bells that if they did not have time to do this, how about the 6 year service! Especially when the symptoms started weeks after the service. Maybe I am reading too much into this but the experiences I have would be shocking if I told you.

YOur help will be much appreciated as I dont know really where to turn.Its now cost me 750 in total from the service to EGR and diesel cleaners!
Regards
Nick

#2 Llanigraham

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 02:05 PM

Nick, I'm sure you have had a full explanation about this on another Forum, haven't you?
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#3 td4s

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 09:25 PM

Nick, I'm sure you have had a full explanation about this on another Forum, haven't you?

hi there

Yes I have but would like to have as much information as possible.

#4 andyb

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Posted 23 February 2010 - 12:27 PM

I would have said that this is a problem with the turbo boost solenoid.

Andy

Try SCOR for the best trials and comp safari in the south of England


#5 td4s

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Posted 24 February 2010 - 10:03 PM

I would have said that this is a problem with the turbo boost solenoid.


Hi there,

Vehicle in at north ome Land Rover. Did diagnostics and only issue so far is that it needs new software!

Would this cause issue I explained? Further checks tomorrow! Just hoping they check injectors, glow plugs. Sure they will.

#6 td4s

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 09:29 PM

Hi there,

Got vehicle back and was told that they loaded new software on the vehicle as it needed the latest one loaded. They tested it but could not find any faults, no hestitations or smoke that they thought un usual.

Took it out for 30 mins and did only twice (slight hesitancy/jerk)from pulling away with little smoke. Never noticed it before but its making me crazy thinking about it. Maybe its just me! On cold start they said nothing wrong other, where I would notice quite a bit of smoke. To be honest, when they collected, and started from cold, no smoke!

Is this just the characterisics of the car then?

Regards

#7 td4s

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 12:50 PM

I would have said that this is a problem with the turbo boost solenoid.


Hi Andyb,

Is the turbo boost solenoid and easy DIY? is there anywhere I could find idiot proof step by step? Got Haynes manuel but very clear!

Would you know Part Number?

Regards
Nick

#8 andyb

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 12:28 PM

Can't remember the post name for it but the part number is STC 4188. Sits at the back right hand side of the engine, you can get to it thru the wheel arch.

Yes it is a DIY job. Also check all the hoses for leaks as well. There is one that goes along the top of the engine by the injectors (under the engine cover).

Sorry this is a bit vague, but it was a while ago I did this and only the once. :) I may have the name of the part wrong but is certainly causes hesitation and made the engine feel like it had a rev limiter at about 3k rpm. Not exactly the problem you have but you changed pretty much everything else :D

Andy

Try SCOR for the best trials and comp safari in the south of England


#9 td4s

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 07:57 AM

Can't remember the post name for it but the part number is STC 4188. Sits at the back right hand side of the engine, you can get to it thru the wheel arch.

Yes it is a DIY job. Also check all the hoses for leaks as well. There is one that goes along the top of the engine by the injectors (under the engine cover).

Sorry this is a bit vague, but it was a while ago I did this and only the once. :) I may have the name of the part wrong but is certainly causes hesitation and made the engine feel like it had a rev limiter at about 3k rpm. Not exactly the problem you have but you changed pretty much everything else :D


Thanks Andy.

In two minds what it can be. Either Turbo boost solenoid or Mass Air Flow Sensor? Been told to disconnect and see if ok but if this raises a fault, will need to take it somewhere to clear? If I purschase Air Flow Sensor, is it just as easy to plug in the new one? I.e Setting will be ok?

What u suggest?

Cheers

#10 andyb

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 09:08 AM

MAF is a possible. Changing them is just plug and play :)

With the MAF unplugged it the ECU you be in a default/limp home mode and if that is better then when it was plugged in then you know there is a problem. I wouldn't worry about a fault code, as this will be stored as an old code but won't have any affect if a new working MAF is plugged in as ECU will see correct parameters.

Andy

Try SCOR for the best trials and comp safari in the south of England


#11 td4s

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 09:10 PM

MAF is a possible. Changing them is just plug and play :)

With the MAF unplugged it the ECU you be in a default/limp home mode and if that is better then when it was plugged in then you know there is a problem. I wouldn't worry about a fault code, as this will be stored as an old code but won't have any affect if a new working MAF is plugged in as ECU will see correct parameters.

Hi there,

Thanks, is it possible to clean the sensor or test it? My brother has just purchased code reader/scanner
So would I be able to to check?

Regards

#12 td4s

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 08:19 AM

MAF is a possible. Changing them is just plug and play :)

With the MAF unplugged it the ECU you be in a default/limp home mode and if that is better then when it was plugged in then you know there is a problem. I wouldn't worry about a fault code, as this will be stored as an old code but won't have any affect if a new working MAF is plugged in as ECU will see correct parameters.


Will the Turbo Solenpoid cause the burnt fuel quick out on first start of the day?

#13 td4s

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 08:45 AM

Just spoke to LR and they say part number is stc4198 and not stc4188. Just want to make sure.

#14 andyb

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 09:00 AM

You can clean the MAF by spraying carb cleaner in there but it is often not worth the bother.

Will the Turbo Solenpoid cause the burnt fuel quick out on first start of the day?


Sorry not sure what you mean.

Andy

Try SCOR for the best trials and comp safari in the south of England


#15 td4s

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Posted 04 March 2010 - 09:33 PM

You can clean the MAF by spraying carb cleaner in there but it is often not worth the bother.



Sorry not sure what you mean.


Sorry was working from Blackberry! lol

Would the Turbo Boost Solenoid cause the burnt fuel to kick out on fire up? this is on first start of the day only?

Can I also clarify part number? STC4188 or STC 4198 which was advised to me by LR.

Cheers AndyB!

#16 andyb

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 12:45 PM

Would the Turbo Boost Solenoid cause the burnt fuel to kick out on fire up? this is on first start of the day only?


No, that is normal operation.

Sorry 4198 is the solenoid :)

Andy

Try SCOR for the best trials and comp safari in the south of England


#17 td4s

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 11:56 PM

No, that is normal operation.

Sorry 4198 is the solenoid :)


Hi there,

PLugged the freelander into my brothers new toy! A code reader/scanner. Did a test on the vehicle and no error codes or pending codes. Drove it and did a live data and was fine also. Idle was 797rpm and steady. When I drove it and warmed up well it started to hesitate on pull away. Looking at the live data it seems to pause at 1500 rpm. It was like me letting go of the gas then pressing it. Still no faults found. COuld it be something with throttle? or a still symtpom of maf? or Turbo boost solenoid?

Cheers
Nick

#18 Mr Bean

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 08:25 PM

It does give the thought of a throttle position sensor, or 1500rpm is when the turbo kicks in does it hold the boost ok when it is up to speed?
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#19 td4s

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Posted 21 March 2010 - 07:58 PM

It does give the thought of a throttle position sensor, or 1500rpm is when the turbo kicks in does it hold the boost ok when it is up to speed?


Hi there,

Its like it hold revs at 1500 or pauses at that point then it boosts up fine. Been driving it for the last week and seems fine. This is really doing my head in! lol

Regards

#20 td4s

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Posted 24 March 2010 - 06:51 AM

First time in a week started to lose/hold revs at 1250-1500 rpm from pulling away. When in park an rev no problem! Does not make sense!




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