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110 van ply lining.


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#1 Redcard

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 10:48 PM

Hi all

Im new on here and to my 110 defender. I'm looking for some ideas for boxing out the back of the van and making a bulkhead with a perspex hatch. I will also add a few LED strip lights and hopefully put something on the roof to stop the drips.

If some has any pic's it would be very helpful

Thanks
Red

#2 Frax

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 11:32 PM

Hi and welcome.
Well I did the back of my 90 with ply and then covered in carpet just so it looked better, also fitted foil covered camping mats to the roof with spray glue, this cut down on condensation and helped keep it a bit warmer.
Have a look at his just for ideas

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item1c184e508e

As for the Perspex it would give you a lot of reflections from your dash and also oncoming cars in the dark.

Regards
Frax
;)

#3 Redcard

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 11:59 AM

Thanks

Good thinking regarding the reflection

#4 brighouse shed

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 09:01 AM

Posted ImagePosted Image Posted Imagedug out some piccies of my interior,

one sheet of ply cut 15, 4m of cheap cord carpet from some carpet warehouse 16, one roll loft insulation from wickes 9, two aerosols of carpet glue 8 some heavy smooth rubber underlay had lying around and then a couple of hours measuring cutting and fiddling. Just be warned that glue bonds instantly you get maybe thirty seconds before it really grabs.
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#5 Steve King

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 09:20 AM

THESE are very easy to fit - not cheap though!

#6 brighouse shed

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 02:29 PM

as you say not cheap
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#7 need4speed

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 04:15 PM

Those side panels from TGE do look good. However looking at the photos on their website, it appears as if there are 2 different styles of panel yet there is no mention of this?
Also, are they trying to say that NOTHING fixes the panels apart from the seatbelt bracket?

Edit: Just noticed that one of the pics shows the utility panel which is a different style.

#8 Steve King

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 04:33 PM

Also, are they trying to say that NOTHING fixes the panels apart from the seatbelt bracket?



That is what they claim, but that leaves the other end flapping unless you have a full length headlining!

They supply some flat headed screws to fix the panel to the top and waist. They also supply the correct size drill bit (however in my case the poxy thing wasn't properly hardened and it twisted and broke as soon as it touched metal! :lol: :unsure: )

#9 need4speed

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 05:00 PM

Hmmm Dont suppose you have any pics of the where the panels fixed?

#10 Steve King

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 05:09 PM

Hmmm Dont suppose you have any pics of the where the panels fixed?


I'll see if I can take a pic or two tonight.

#11 brighouse shed

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 07:03 PM

All the sites i looked at implied that you take off seatbelt mount slide in panel and job's a good 'un.

i think if you have a headlining it may work but not in mine. I cut the seat belt hole about 5mm too far forward so the panel is rammed up against the rear. then put in two self tappers on top rail and one at the bottom of central spine. That way i kept the horizontal beam (tub top?) untouched, partly cos i like the band of blue and also it was looking too complicated to sort out the levels between top rail, vertical spars and the 'tub beam' .

I did run for a while with it held in place but it rattled constantly spoiling my normal near silent truck, a couple of self tappers and no problem since.
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#12 Steve King

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 08:47 PM

Had to work a bit late tonight and it was too dark to take any pics tonight- I'll try tomorrow morning.

The TGE panels have the seat belt bracket hole pre-drilled. Once I had put the screws in the rear of the panel it was much quieter than without the panels.

#13 jcwcooper

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 09:56 PM

Had to work a bit late tonight and it was too dark to take any pics tonight- I'll try tomorrow morning.

The TGE panels have the seat belt bracket hole pre-drilled. Once I had put the screws in the rear of the panel it was much quieter than without the panels.


Vambo how sturdy are the panels?

Dave.

#14 Steve King

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 10:38 PM

Vambo how sturdy are the panels?

Dave.


They are IMHO sturdy.

Basically they are {at a guess) decent quality 3/8" ply with a fuzzy kind of fabric covering. As I said before they are expensive, but they do work in (a) quietening the drumming in the rear of my 110 hardtop and (b)cutting down the condensation - just got to sort out the roof now!

#15 Steve King

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 10:23 AM

If I've done it right there should be a couple of pics attached. The one with the speaker shows one of the mounting screws at the top.

Attached Files



#16 need4speed

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:23 AM

Thanks for the pics vambo. Looks tidy.

#17 JJB Serenity

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 09:25 PM

Vambo, those panels look great, exactly the kind of thing I'm after.
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#18 cornishlandrover

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 08:53 AM

Hi all im new to the website, thought i would just share a pic of the rear tub of my 90. Im currently insulating the sides, for warmth and sound proofing. Im useing thick fibre 1nch floor underlay. I will ply line the the sides and deck. Sides in 6mm ply and deck in 12mm ply. Anyway ive uploaded a pic of it ready to go and will add more pics as i go.

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#19 cornishlandrover

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 10:41 PM

Some pics of my landrover defender 90 ply lining

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#20 Boris113

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 01:09 PM

Hi all

Im new on here and to my 110 defender. I'm looking for some ideas for boxing out the back of the van and making a bulkhead with a perspex hatch. I will also add a few LED strip lights and hopefully put something on the roof to stop the drips.

If some has any pic's it would be very helpful

Thanks
Red


I have a mate with an ex-utilities 110. His has a wooden bulkhead built behind the seats (with prespex window) and lockers built on top of the seatboxes. I can dig out the camera and take some pictures if you are still after some?




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