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What mileage out of a TD4?


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#1 reb78

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 09:39 PM

Hi All,
I'm trying to get rid of anything on my driveway without the green oval! I have been looking at freelanders and i want to trade my BMW in for one. I was looking at HSE spec TD4 Freelanders and was trying to find one with the lowest possible mileage. However, is mileage a big issue for these? I am looking at a rather nice one that has 69K on the clock - is this just run it? What sort of maximum mileage would you reckon to get out of these engines if well maintained?
Richard
1989 110 - Defender 200tdi (ex 19J), LT77s, LT230 (from a TD5) & GKN overdrive
2004 D2 TD5 Landmark

#2 Dorsetfreelander

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 11:12 PM

I have had two TD4s a 52 reg GS manual which did 82K miles (bought at 7K) with no probs (even had original back tyres when I sold it), now on a 04 reg SE auto with 64K miles (bought at 18K) and no probs yet. Had both serviced regularly. They are chain drive so no cambelt to worry about and I get about 35mpg on a long run. Watch out for the fuel burning heater on SE and HSE models I am trying to find a way to switch mine off, it's supposed to come on at start up if temp is below 5C but mine stays on until about 10C.

I suppose you know it has the BMW engine

#3 gary1968

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 12:06 AM

The engine should be fine, just make sure the VCU is good, at around 70k miles it will probably need replaced or you will end up with IRD and/or diff problems as well.

HTH,
Gaz

#4 Blippie

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 08:47 AM

On just approaching 110k on our 2002 TD4 and there are people on www.landyzone.co.UK with TD4s well over 150k.

Replaced a rear diff bush at 60k (15), windscreen wiper linkage at 70k (two cable ties or replacenent part at 70) and fuel pumps last year.

Most reliable car we've ever had.

Cheers

Blippie

#5 nickcc

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 08:49 AM

Bought a Oct 2005 TD4 auto freestyle with 102,000 miles on the clock a few weeks ago, full dealer service. Over the moon so far after fitting new drums and shoes, EGR bypass, crankcase filter, new discs and pads and full service. Suppose the next job will be replacing the VCU even though both the advised checks showed working OK (tippex on props and weight on front wheel).

#6 reb78

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 09:40 AM

Thanks. Useful info. So 69K is not that high really! The one i have seen is a 2004 HSE, 69K and is up for 7500 at a car dealer. The price seemed a little high for the age, but it does seem in good condition in HSE spec with a FSH (whatever that means these days!). BUT, there are other TD4s going for ~10K with about 40K on the clock.

Is there a quick way to check the VCU on a test drive?
Richard
1989 110 - Defender 200tdi (ex 19J), LT77s, LT230 (from a TD5) & GKN overdrive
2004 D2 TD5 Landmark

#7 FridgeFreezer

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 10:48 AM

Reverse round a corner, dip the clutch half way - if it grinds to a stop instantly, it's seized. You should feel a little resistance but not like someone's put the brakes on.

Also - are you talking FL1 or the FL2 here? My 2001 TD4 owes me less than 2k, seems quite a jump to the prices you're talking :unsure:
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#8 reb78

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 11:29 AM

Reverse round a corner, dip the clutch half way - if it grinds to a stop instantly, it's seized. You should feel a little resistance but not like someone's put the brakes on.

Also - are you talking FL1 or the FL2 here? My 2001 TD4 owes me less than £2k, seems quite a jump to the prices you're talking :unsure:


Thanks. Thats useful to know.

I am talking about the FL1 facelift model. The prices i mention are what seem to be the going rate on autotrader if i do a search. 10K seems to get a 2005 with 30-45K on the clock - model seems less important. I want to do a px, so was looking at traders rather than private ads. This is the example i was looking at (it is older and a higher mileage than the 10K examples, but also less money):

http://www.autotrade...rProfileSection
Richard
1989 110 - Defender 200tdi (ex 19J), LT77s, LT230 (from a TD5) & GKN overdrive
2004 D2 TD5 Landmark

#9 LR NUT

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 10:55 PM

[quote name='FridgeFreezer' timestamp='1300099682' post='571037']
Reverse round a corner, dip the clutch half way - if it grinds to a stop instantly, it's seized. You should feel a little resistance but not like someone's put the brakes on.

Is there any maintenance required for the VCU such as greece to preserve the unit?

many thanks
Disco 2, V8 RIP Rolled & Ditched
Disco 2, Td5
Freelander 1, Td4

#10 FridgeFreezer

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Posted 17 March 2011 - 01:12 AM

Is there any maintenance required for the VCU such as greece to preserve the unit?

No, it's a sealed unit and the bearings are also of the sealed type - a couple of companies will recondition the VCU if it seizes, Bell Engineering did mine and it seems to work well, there's another company who put a less viscous fluid in to make the unit "drag" less but there was a thread on here about one of theirs not working at all :unsure: however a friend has had one of their units for some time and seems pleased with it.
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#11 nickcc

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Posted 17 March 2011 - 08:58 AM

Thanks. Thats useful to know.

I am talking about the FL1 facelift model. The prices i mention are what seem to be the going rate on autotrader if i do a search. 10K seems to get a 2005 with 30-45K on the clock - model seems less important. I want to do a px, so was looking at traders rather than private ads. This is the example i was looking at (it is older and a higher mileage than the 10K examples, but also less money):

http://www.autotrade...rProfileSection

I paid 7795 for a high mileage, 102k, October 2005 FL1 freestyle TD4 auto from a dealer. I also got a far higher part ex price than I could selling privately (MB 2 litre auto estate that no one wanted due to the usual MB rust issues and same road tax cost as my Freelander).

#12 reb78

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Posted 17 March 2011 - 12:46 PM

I paid 7795 for a high mileage, 102k, October 2005 FL1 freestyle TD4 auto from a dealer. I also got a far higher part ex price than I could selling privately (MB 2 litre auto estate that no one wanted due to the usual MB rust issues and same road tax cost as my Freelander).


Thanks. I would say that 7-7500 isnt a bad price for the one in the link given the spec and mileage? I will have a look around the dealers as well, but havent found any in the right price and mileage range there yet.
Richard
1989 110 - Defender 200tdi (ex 19J), LT77s, LT230 (from a TD5) & GKN overdrive
2004 D2 TD5 Landmark

#13 Dorsetfreelander

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Posted 18 March 2011 - 11:23 AM

Just put my 04 reg TD4 auto in for MOT with 64K miles and passed with no probs or advisories. Can't complain at that. Just get it serviced every 12K by someone who knows Freelanders.

#14 reb78

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Posted 18 March 2011 - 01:02 PM

Just put my 04 reg TD4 auto in for MOT with 64K miles and passed with no probs or advisories. Can't complain at that. Just get it serviced every 12K by someone who knows Freelanders.


Jolly good!

Part of the reason i want another land rover is because i'll do all the work on it myself. Technical enough to be a decent vehicle, but not so much that the home mechanic cant touch it (unlike the BMW engine in my 5 series!) so servicing and maintenance will be nice and regular.
Richard
1989 110 - Defender 200tdi (ex 19J), LT77s, LT230 (from a TD5) & GKN overdrive
2004 D2 TD5 Landmark

#15 reb78

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Posted 21 March 2011 - 08:44 PM

Well. Looked at a few and just put a deposit down on the one i linked to above. All seemed ok on the test drive. VGC outside, a few scrapes on the door handle inside, but generally good condition. So, as of friday, i guess i'll be asking questions on this bit of the fourm as well!
Richard
1989 110 - Defender 200tdi (ex 19J), LT77s, LT230 (from a TD5) & GKN overdrive
2004 D2 TD5 Landmark

#16 nickcc

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Posted 22 March 2011 - 08:54 AM

You can sometimes get the silver interior door handle off ebay, about 20, the one on mine is badly scratched but I may take it off and try plastic bumper spray first. Before you pick the car up check the rear cubby hole box for water, my jack was rusted solid, this is usually due to a leaking rear door seal and a modified replacement fitted will cost you about 250 at a LR dealer. I had a new one fitted, before I picked the car up, as part of the deal.

#17 reb78

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Posted 22 March 2011 - 09:21 AM

You can sometimes get the silver interior door handle off ebay, about 20, the one on mine is badly scratched but I may take it off and try plastic bumper spray first. Before you pick the car up check the rear cubby hole box for water, my jack was rusted solid, this is usually due to a leaking rear door seal and a modified replacement fitted will cost you about 250 at a LR dealer. I had a new one fitted, before I picked the car up, as part of the deal.


Thanks. I was thinking of taking them off and spraying them (if i can get them off without breaking the clips!).

I checked the cubby hole box when i looked over it and it all seemed dry in there.
Richard
1989 110 - Defender 200tdi (ex 19J), LT77s, LT230 (from a TD5) & GKN overdrive
2004 D2 TD5 Landmark

#18 reb78

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 10:46 AM

Well.....picking it up this evening and am sufficiently nervous about spending my hard earned!! Its always the way that the car you are trading in also runs sweet just before you get rid of it making you think 'is this really the right decision??! - this is such a nice car and i'm getting so little for it!'. I hate buying new vehicles!
Richard
1989 110 - Defender 200tdi (ex 19J), LT77s, LT230 (from a TD5) & GKN overdrive
2004 D2 TD5 Landmark

#19 Chris Sargent

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 07:59 AM

How you getting on with it then?

#20 reb78

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 10:39 PM

Ha! Not ecstatic at the mo! Started a new thread here:

http://forums.lr4x4....=0
Richard
1989 110 - Defender 200tdi (ex 19J), LT77s, LT230 (from a TD5) & GKN overdrive
2004 D2 TD5 Landmark




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