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Factory alarm on a Td5


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#1 Andrew Chua

Andrew Chua

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Posted 11 July 2011 - 01:54 AM

Hi all,

After studying lots of diagrams and reading up, I've finally come to this conclusion and bite the bullet and do the 10AS alarm project. There's plenty of info scattered around various websites and also here on the forum.

As some may have known, i've immobilised my Td5 once and had no idea what to do after than, but that's fixed.

So what you need to get the thing working. I assume your interior lights do come on when you open the doors (so your door switches are in place already). The driver door is 1 input and the rest of the other doors are connected together onto another input. It does make a slight difference to the 10AS, but if they are wired all to the driver door, it's still ok.

Let's get started....

1. Nanocom
2. Key fob (Lucas 17TN) they come in the 315 or 433Mhz variant. You need to know your 10AS frequency.
3. CDL options*
4. Bonnet switch AMR2022 (optional) and bracket ALR9158 (optional)
5. Transponder coil AMR 4897 (optional)
6. Ultrasonic sensor YWC102900LNF (optional)
7. Back up battery sounder (optional)

1. This is pretty much a programming exercise, so using a nanocom you just need to query the 10AS. ALWAYS do a read and save of the existing settings so that if anything goes wrong, you can revert the settings. Load one of the regions settings and write that to the 10AS. This pretty much enables the alarm. BUT before you do this, make sure you already have a key fob. you need to get the 10AS to learn this key fob first. this will save you a lot of headache later, so do this first. For any reason, when you want to disconnect your 10AS, you should disable the alarm or at least disarm it before you pull the cables connectors out. It will NOT want to unlock or disarm when you disconnect it while the system is armed (immobilised) and then re connect it back.

2. Key fobs come in many part numbers (when you pull up microcat or numcat), but my experience is that there's only 2 variants and that's the frequency. You need the right one. Make sure it's the model is the Lucas 17TN fob.

3. CDL has been covered extensively on this forum. There are many ways to get this working. So, if you already have CDL on your doors, this is a lot easier (or some may think). However, you will need to also understand how your CDL unit works and how it can (or cannot) be interfaced easily with the 10AS. If you visit Fitting Central Door Locks to a Defender, you will easily see that there's a missing relay in most of the 10AS that ship from the factory without alarm. So there are a few options you can take :

a) buy the relay and solder it in (should be less than 6 bucks)
b) tap the wires out (as shown in the documentation) and interface it to your existing CDL or some additional circuits to the CDL
c) follow the factory way and buy a single 4 wire CDL master for your driver door and do option a) as well

I 'cheated' by having a CDL controller and doing option a). connected the output directly to the lock / unlock wires of the motors. the 10AS will not be able to sense key unlock via the driver sill input wire in this way, but i still get to lock / unlock my doors via a single key turn if needed.

4 to 6) These are the optional extras. You will find the connectors already on the loom (well, i did on my based speced 90) so it's just connecting them on.

5. is the transponder coil, this stops the truck from being immobilsed automatically when you turn off the engine and open the driver door (with the key still in the ignition). Without this coil, the 10AS would not be able to sense the proximity of the key fob and assume it has been removed and sets the engine immobilize in 30 seconds. if the driver door is not opened, it sets immobilised in 5 minutes (still).

6. this is the most expensive piece of the puzzle. this is the volumetric sensor for the interior. it's mounted at the B post on the right side of the vehicle for HT and ©SW. Slightly different on a truck cab.

7. I skipped this option, so I can't really comment much. Most have said it's not worth it.

To sum it all up, it depends on how close do you want to get it to the factory wiring specs. Once you understand how it works, you can then decide if you want to omit a certain 'function' of the alarm if you don't need it.

I believe that there are many more out there whom have tried and succeeded. Do feel free to share. These are just what i've experimented with and discovered.

Andrew
Land Rovers do not leak, it's their owners that fail to fix them.

#2 Andrew Chua

Andrew Chua

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Posted 19 October 2012 - 03:32 AM

Just to update this post :

I've bought the CDL relay which fits in the 10AS at http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649

Soldered the relay and tapped out pin 2 and 3 to the lock motors. This will now use the relay on the PCB to drive the motors.

Now i have a proper 10AS without the need for an external CDL controller box as stated above. It works like a treat. Land Rover saved $2 by not soldering this relay on the non-alarm models.

I've added the transponder coil so that it can 'sense' the plip and mobilise itself (when it passively immobilised) at a turn of the key.

I've also added the volumetric sensor on the B-post to complete the puzzle.
Land Rovers do not leak, it's their owners that fail to fix them.




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