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Alas, poor old brian is still sat there in the shed gathering (corn) dust (by the half ton) its going to be a pig to wash off if i ever manage to get him out to play/back on the road haha.

did go back home this weekend but with the missus (valentines day) a very very stubborn nut on a fiesta rear shock (no spare bolts so not cutting :() and a break in to our garage where the quad and strimmer was, i didnt really get chance to even so much as look at any of my green oval prizes.

i 24 splined the inner sides of the rear shafts ('80 onwards standard shafts flipped) on the rear for my LSD, havent got any shafts up front yet but for now its going to be standard CV's (3 piece as although its the weakest type its what i have) and some either shortened or fresh shafts to join diff to CV.

i did however go through my full workshop and picture and log everything i have that is worth anything just incase mr (unsuccessful so far) burgular decides to return i can prove to the insurance what i actually have.

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HoSS,

it has been on the road, done a fair few miles,motorway, country road, city and heavy towing. its had an engineers report sign off and is notified with the insurance.

the reason its off the road at the minute is because i broke the back diff and needed to get back to work at coventry the next day, so swapped my insurance over to mums laccetti now cant afford to insure both and also brian wants a bit of TLC ideally

performance and reliability wise, its top notch, being basically a standard coiler brake setup, its tried and tested too

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I ask the question because i want to do something similar - convert Volvo portals to disc, and keep it road legal.

What kind of engineer did you use and what was involved in signing off? And what did your insurance company say?

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engineers report was done by an agricultural dealer/land rover specialist/MOT testing station/engineering shop, so the engineer (owner) has lots of experience from all walks of the trade and this was backed up with a fresh MOT and a brake test.

signing it off was just a matter of him writing down a summary of his views on my work, along with a copy of the brake test results, and MOT certificate then signed, and adressed.

my insurance company only asked to see an engineers report (some insurers will actually provide a fill out form style engineers report) and after that my premium didnt change at all. they seemed happy with the work. Being the NFU i guess probably helped as they can understand this is not a performance upgrade, and a series is very unlikely to be raced about. they see it as a safety upgrade i think which i was both surprised and pleased about.

:)

i think that as long as you can get a second opinion from an engineer who "knows their stuff" and test results to prove the performance of the brakes, you shouldnt have much of an issue with it.

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  • 6 years later...
On 7/15/2011 at 10:55 AM, Gazzar said:

There must be a smarter way around the steering track issue, too. I'd hate to lose the ground clearance the parabolics have gained.

The shaped disco track rod is an option - I don't quite like the idea of applying heat sufficient to allow a bend on a steering component, but could be persuaded otherwise.

I suppose that it would have to be curved up over the spring, long enough lock-to-lock clearance, and then curved under the diff. Would the bending of it make it less rigid? Or would one of the heavy duty steering bar manufacturers be able to make them up?

An alternative is to hang both the track rod and the drag link out of the front arm, suzuki style:

http://bulletproofsteering.com/steeringsystems.html

Not entirely convinced by this approach, the loss of the taper concerns me, but I don't know why. It should work, and the change to the hole and bolt style tie rod is probably an upgrade.

You'd have to use a LHD drivers side swivel, but as you'd be buying new anyway there is no additional hassle.

G.

Steve Parker has a drag link and track control arm adapter kit that allows the steering linkage to remain at the front of the axle in a similar way to the Suzuki kit. This looks like it could avoid the clearance issues at the rear of the axle for the TCA, diff and springs.

B4362E0F-4ACB-489C-8720-D9D04393DEEB.jpeg.9847798f5d46c4a5ae3439991aa5e981.jpeg

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That's a neat solution but I hate the execution, adding a little bit to the end of the already weedy stock steering bars like that makes me nervous, especially as the drag link is now acting on it off-centre.

The Volvo steering does similar using a double-ball TRE, Dan re-made my steering bars to use 3/4" heims and it works nicely so far;

20170903_224512.jpg

Mind you, that's 30mm solid EN32 for the bars which is a tad beefier than the stock Series ones.

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