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Eberspacher D1LC into a 1995 Defender 90


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#21 4b4

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 11:57 AM

Really liking the look of that fitting option, I'm looking at sourcing and fitting one of these since the conversion from petrol to diesel as the heat from the existing heater has diminished considerably.

Keep us updated when you get back!

#22 JasonG4110

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 06:46 PM

I started to fit my D2 today, it is going under the drivers seat box where the ECU used to live, I am putting some insulated pipe between the two under seat boxes so it will work as a positive air system taking its air intake from the front of the drivers foot well to help remove the cold spot on the floor.

I will fit closing vents in the lids of both seat boxes so the air will come out of there and dissipate to the front and back, I will also fit some small closing vents to the seat box fronts to put warm air into the footwells.

Well that's the plan anyway, I have a 7 day timer with mine so the idea will be to have it come on in the mornings and make the truck warm for Mrs S on the School run.


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#23 Frax

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 07:05 PM

Like the idea of being able to direct where your hot air is going and your use of camping mats. I hope that I wont need to use my one on the move but you never know - just want it to heat up and defrost in the winter months. I only got a room style stat with a on/off switch on my one and did think about buying a timer but have decided to go for a remote instead. bought one of these http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c6956f688 which was only £17 and switches on a 12v+ supply. the plan is to use this to switch a relay and wire it across the stat on off switch - if I have worked this out right I should be able to turn it on by remote or from the stat on/off switch.

Keep the updates coming Jason :unsure:

As you can tell I am still at home flight delays - 6am check in for me in the morning.

#24 JasonG4110

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 07:10 PM

The insulation is not camping mats Frax it's this stuff, I have insulated the hell out of the truck in prep for Norway, I don't intend to use my heater on the move either unless it gets really cold, I also have a D4 to heat the engine, but will be sleeping in the truck on our trip so want it to be warm!!

The updates are on my truck page.

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If brute force, tie wraps or duck tape won't solve your problems, then you aren't using enough!!

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#25 Frax

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 07:40 PM

Sorry Jason it sure is not camping mat - that stuff looks really good quality. I did the same job last year and used stuff called fatmat which was and still is good but a bit costly - will have to have a good read of your truck page. My roof is covered in foil covered camping mat and from the foil side looks the same but not near as good, to compensate I covered the roof with car carpet, all glued on and is holding up well so far.

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#26 q-rover

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 07:05 AM

Just curious as to why these type of heaters have been choosen.
The type of heaters normally fitted in Scandinavia are the engine (water) preheaters.
If extra cab warmth is needed, then a simple extra blower, plumbed into the coolant
circuit is sufficient.
This type is fitted as standard to all LR delivered in Scandinavia, as well as most other
diseasel vehicles. http://www.parkinghe...ing-heater.html
No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

#27 JST

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 10:40 PM

it depends if you want to be hot without having to heat the coolant if your not running the vehicle for a while. the air heaters do work much quicker than the coolant heaters for interior heat. - as you would expect.

#28 JasonG4110

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 10:48 PM

Just curious as to why these type of heaters have been choosen.
The type of heaters normally fitted in Scandinavia are the engine (water) preheaters.
If extra cab warmth is needed, then a simple extra blower, plumbed into the coolant
circuit is sufficient.
This type is fitted as standard to all LR delivered in Scandinavia, as well as most other
diseasel vehicles. http://www.parkinghe...ing-heater.html


As James said really, I will be sleeping in my truck so will require heating in the cab at night when I don't want to run the engine up, I am also going to fit an engine heater (Eberspacher D2) to pre-heat the engine before starting off in the mornings. We also use our truck when camping and something that will be good is to have somewhere to warm the wife and kids.

Jason.
If brute force, tie wraps or duck tape won't solve your problems, then you aren't using enough!!

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#29 q-rover

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Posted 02 November 2012 - 06:59 AM

Fair enough.
But you shouldn't need to heat the truck when sleeping in it during the night.
I've slept outside in tents in -35 and it's no problem, it's your kit that you use that makes the difference.
but understand if enfants and SWMBO are there aswell. Just make sure your batteries are tip top, as
they will take a hammering in the cold temperatures. A lot of people here struggle to get Webastos and
Ebers to work when it starts getting really cold.
No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

#30 JasonG4110

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Posted 02 November 2012 - 09:44 AM

Fair enough.
But you shouldn't need to heat the truck when sleeping in it during the night.
I've slept outside in tents in -35 and it's no problem, it's your kit that you use that makes the difference.
but understand if enfants and SWMBO are there aswell. Just make sure your batteries are tip top, as
they will take a hammering in the cold temperatures. A lot of people here struggle to get Webastos and
Ebers to work when it starts getting really cold.


No fear with my kit, my bag is good down to -30 comfort rating and will be supplemented with a thermolite liner.

For the batteries I have three 110 amp ones these are new this year so should be good, two of these are under the seats and one in the rear storage unit, these will be heated by the air heater as I will be running a pipe to the battery box in addition to this I have fitted a 12v heating pad under the battery tray to help to pre-heat the batteries prior to starting the truck. I have also replaced my glow plugs to assist the starting process.

I have also fitted a 240v system with two c-tek charges so if 240v is available we will be able to connect the truck recharge the batteries and heat the cab via a small electric fan heater.

Jason.
If brute force, tie wraps or duck tape won't solve your problems, then you aren't using enough!!

2010 Freelander 2, 2003 110 G4 LE, Overland Trailer http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=49598

#31 q-rover

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Posted 02 November 2012 - 10:07 AM

:i-m_so_happy:
Shame your not coming via Stavanger...
No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

#32 Frax

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 06:00 PM

All my bits turned up so thought I would start with the remote module, the module switches 12v & I required it to open and close a volt free contact.
This was easy to do with a relay. Removed the cover on the eber room stat and got the printed circuit board out, soldered two wires onto the two point for the on/off switch and run the wires to the volt free contacts on the relay. rebuilt and tested and all worked so now I can turn the eber on from the stat on/off switch or the remote.
Run my power cables with 4mm2 wire and an inline fuse. Not a hard job as the battery box is close to the unit. Eber fuel pump mounted but not wired up yet. Remote unit mounted on rear bulkhead behind drivers seat.
Hope to pipe up tonight and test ------ will see how I get on.

Frax

#33 Frax

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 09:24 PM

Up and running at last and remote works - will add pictures when I can ;) :D

#34 Frax

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 06:30 PM

Well bit of frost in Scotland this morning so went to the back door about 1/2 hour before I was leaving and switched on the eber with the remote. Great I thought...1/2 later went out and nice warm Defender and all frost gone from the windows. Then the disappointing bit - went to start the Land Rover and she needed some turning over before she eventual fired up. Usually starts on first turn of the key. Thinking about it I am just wondering if the eber had taken the easy route for the fuel supply and sucked fuel back down from my fuel filter instead of taking it from the tank.
I took the supply from the fuel tank feed about 8" from the tank by fitting a tee.
I now think that the eber is taking the fuel from the highest point and wonder if it would be possible and feasible to fit a none return valve in the fuel line after the tee so stop any fuel being able to be sucked back by the eber.

Any thoughts on fitting an NRV to the fuel line...........

#35 JasonG4110

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 06:37 PM

Fitting a NRV in the fuel line would be the simple answer, if you think it is taking Diesel from the line, there are loads around and they are pretty cheap. The other consideration is what is your battery/batteries like, could it by that it sapped the power from these if they were not well charged.

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#36 Frax

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 07:02 PM

Hi Jason I did think it may be the battery as they also suffer from cold but I still had a good 13v according to my gauge, I do only have one though.
As there is no way of knowing where the metering pump is taking it fuel from as with most things I would think it will take the easy route.
There is no point in sucking when there is a head of fuel sitting there waiting to be used.
Now all I need to do is remember if I ordered a 6mm or 8mm reducing tee - brain, I wish I had one that could remember things.
If it kicks into gear I will order an NRV - I have a 6mm so chances are I will need the 8mm.

#37 CwazyWabbit

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 07:05 PM

Do you not still have the confirmation email? Assuming you ordered online ;) There are benefits to storing loads of pointless emails for years :P

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#38 Frax

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Posted 12 November 2012 - 07:11 PM

Wish it was that easy, bought on ebay and it was one of them with the pull down menu to select the size you require.
Confirmation email just said two tee's - just had a look. Will need to see what one I have left.
Will have to leave it till the weekend and ha a look.

#39 q-rover

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 08:35 AM

Battery may be showing 13V, but what does it show when you try to turn the engine over?
No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

#40 Mo Murphy

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 11:12 AM

Interesting write up Frax, thanks for sharing that :)
Mo
Let him that hath understanding count the number of the beast: for it is the number of a man; and his number is one hundred and ten

The Land Rover 90: Many are called, few are chosen ...




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