Landowner Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Taking the body off the 90 and cant find any threads on how to do it. Most just say that they undid all the bolts and lifted body off, I have four nuts under the tub which are puzzling me, though after looking at the pic I took I may be worrying without cause. All the others are off so just these and we are away, any advice on removal appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 (edited) photo added Edited April 22, 2014 by western Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 If they don't undo, chop 'em off with the grinder. Resist the temptation to refit stainless ones as they worsen corrosion in aluminium (creating a better battery!), just use BZP with coppaslip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Looking at it , I cant get grinder in there unless the ones on the tub can be sliced off, I'll have a look tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibex94 Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 If you can't grind them consider drilling them out, tedious but delivers the result. You may also find you can get a Dremel in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Be easier to cut the cross member and chisel them off when chassis is out of the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Those bits are the brackets for the seat belt buckle mounts I think. There's a bolt facing forward into the front edge of the tub flange on each of them. And two bolts down onto the chassis mount for each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Thanks, I'll have a proper look today, just those and the body is ready to lift of at weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie64 Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Hi I Have been looking at replacing my chassis so need to lift the body off and was struggling to find the info of which bolts need undoing/removing do you have a list of the bolts you undid or photos maybe? also what else did you have to undo to lift off? E.G- brake lines any wires and the likes thanks tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 I will put photo's of nuts and bolts up prob tomorrow. 90 by the way. Disregarding the rear cross member there are only the two large bolts at the base of the bulkhead and a further six small ones. Two each side just in front of the rear wheels that bolt the tubular outriggers to the body and a further two just below the seat belt mounts that couple a bracket to the chassis. I took wings and bonnet off, unbolted heater from bulkhead and heater cables / wires. All I need to do now is disconnect two brake pipes and the steering and the loom plug but I want it mobile till weekend so I can shunt it about. I'm going to start a thread with pictures of taking body off including which nuts and bolts to undo and how hard/easy it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Found two more bolts holding the seat box to the chassis. So there are all the ones at the back that hold body to cross member Two each side holding rear tubular outriggers to body Two under seat belt mounts remove one of a pair each side (picture) Two holding seat box to chassis brackets (picture) Two large bolts holding bottom of bulkhead to chassis Two each side holding foot well to chassis brackets (picture) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Well, got it ready for lift off, just got earth lead from transfer box, engine loom plug and steering to disconnect. Plan is to use engine crane at back and jack at front to raise the chassis while the ramps and chocks are removed and then lower the chassis down from the body. I'm on my own so will have to take it slow but I'm sure it will work out ok, I've left enough room for the transfer box lever to clear the bulkhead tunnel so should be able to roll the chassis out. I am going to take some pictures and start a new thread beginning with pics of all the bolts that have to come off and what to undo so as the body can be lifted off, then what goes wrong when you come to do it Wish me luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted April 26, 2014 Author Share Posted April 26, 2014 :)Well its off Easy peasy, had to let the rear tyres down to give clearance, measured wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 Interesting method for removing the body, not seen that method before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 different to the way we lifted my 110CSW body off the old chassis.& on to the new galv chassis ------------------- one hi-lift each side with the lift pad facing inwards just in rear of bulkhead bottom mount, 45 gallon barrel placed each side with a beam ready to slide in, we removed the front grille panel so no need to lift it over the engine, rear end was left sat on chassis [all body mount bolts removed] front end raised enough to get the beam & barrels in place but just clear so wheels/tyres could pass without touching, rear end of body lifted just enough to clear chassis, rear beam & barrels placed in to support & chassis rolled out, & parked out of the way, body was then lifted enough to move the barrels further in under the body to give more support, front end done first then rear, as in the body photo's above. the forward beam sits under bulkhead & rear beam sits under the rear sets cross member, all nicely supported, just waiting for the new chassis to be rolled under & body refitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted April 26, 2014 Author Share Posted April 26, 2014 My problem was that I couldn't rely on any help so I had to do it as a one man operation without any lifting gear apart from a jack. I am disabled and cant work for more than an hour or two at a time and if I do any lifting then I have to rest for an hour to get my strength back. As luck would have it, two of my friends called round after all the brain work had been done and operated the jack for me 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 It is surprising what you can do by yourself, with a little thought and nobody trying to make decisions for you Well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 top marks for giving it a go, & your mates arriving just at the right time, good luck with swapping the running gear to the new chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted April 26, 2014 Author Share Posted April 26, 2014 Thanks, got a little tractor with front loader for lifting chassis up, it will just about lift engine on its own but handy and saves a lot of jacking. I'm going to start taking engine out on Monday, new chassis not due for two weeks so plenty of time to get ready Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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