reb78 Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Last year, I had to take the timing case off completely on the 200tdi to fix the leaking water gallery seal between the case and the block. I did the timing belt and all seals at the same time (they were Allmakes seals - I know, why didn't i go genuine/corteco??! - and I'm pretty sure I did the little o ring behind the cam pulley bolt). I now have a weep from the timing case drain hole that has been there a while and that i ought to fix before I travel to the Lakes at the end of September. I have the seals (Corteco ones this time from Bearmach) and a new timing belt & tensioner to do all of this, but before I start, I wanted to ask how do you fit the seals? Its easy with the case off the car, but what techniques and tips do you have for fitting them? How do you keep them square and straight and how deep into the case do you fit them. I don't want to have to do this again next year!! (its a defender 200tdi in case that matters..) TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Tap them in gently with a suitable sized socket or bit of tube as a drift. Depth I think was fairly obvious when I did mine a couple of years ago, I suspect I just put them in at the same depth that the originals came out at - which may not be much help I know! There is also a small circular gasket behind the timing case in line with the tensioner bolt hole, this can cause a leak if forgotten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Thanks James. I definitely did the circular gasket as I remember doing it and double checking it was in place as I put everything back. I hope the source of the leak will be obvious once the case cover is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 I do similar to James, tap the seals in so they are fully seated against the timing case recess, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 Well, all dismantled (and after managing to break the crank pulley in the process), i cant tell where the leak was from. I will change Cam and Crank seals (plus the two o rings on the crank as well) anyway. Good news is that it doesn't look like the leak is from the bolt through the casing with the little circular seal behind it. One odd thing is that the tensioner seemed to have a lot of grease around it, but i cant imagine that was causing the leak as it was definitely oil coming out of the drain hole. Sorry if the focus is a bit out when blown up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 grease would be from the tensioner bearings, best to fit a new tensioner. oil looks like the crank seal has been weeping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 From the pics it would appear that your 200Tdi isnt fitted with the upgraded belt drive kit that has flanges on the crank cog to prevent the belt from running off, it would be best to fit one unless in my ignorance of things Land Rover this is only a 300Tdi upgrade, and I agree with Western, the grease is from the "sealed for life" bearings. While the cover is off, and this is just a tip from my limited 4 years experience with my Disco, remove the plastic bearing cover from the fan drive bearing, make up a new one (22mm dia ) out of 2mm thick alloy plate and drill and tap a grease nipple into it opposite the roller bearing, press in the new disc and grease it with high temp moly grease - just a couple of shots as you dont want to over grease it but the existing set-up is a "non-replaceable" unit and if the bearing goes it means a new engine cover unless you take the alternative route (as I did ) of machining a new shaft and fitting off-the-shelf bearings and seal which, while costing me around AUD$480.00 was still less than the cost of a new cover at AUD$800.00. The main advantage being two new taper roller bearings and seal cost around AUD$30.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Being a total luddite I hope this will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 Hi Boydie, I think the belt drive kit upgrade was just for the 300tdi. Are we talking 300 or 200 with the fan drive bearing? I'm not sure i recognise the part you are referring to on my 200? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Boydie that's all for 300tdi, the 200tdi didn't suffer with that fault, fan bolts to water pump hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 As I said Western as far as variance goes with things Land Rover 200 /300Tdi I'd be the first to confess a degree of ignorance. I've only had the 300Tdi and confess I've only ever seen one 200Tdi close up and it was being scrapped due to lack of spare parts availability with a replacement 300tdi ready to replace it, I never really paid it that much attension apart from looking at the turbo location & set-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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