How about a drain channel for the internal gutter???

[reb78]

I'm chasing leaks a bit at the moment. I've a good idea of where the water is getting in at the rear of my 110 but it got me thinking.... A lot of the reports on the web are of water somehow getting into that internal roof gutter and then ending up elsewhere in the car. In the rear corners, it might be possible to put in some drain tubes that run down the corner and out of the bottom of the wheel box - at least letting any water out might stop it gathering and then pouring onto passengers, seats or luggage. You could put another one in a 110 that comes down the B and or C pillars.

Anyone done this or do you think it is just a bodge?

[FridgeFreezer]

Letting the water out in a planned fashion seems a better idea than the futile endeavour that is trying to stop the water getting there in the 1st place.

[reb78]

The hard bit in my head is figuring out the attachment to the gutter... they tube itself is easy.

I suppose a bolt drilled down the centre with the head removed and a washer welded in place of the head might work (you could put the nut on underneath then to hold it tight against the gutter)? Or maybe a rivnut inserted from the top of the drain channel? The drain tubing could then be squeezed over the end of the bolt or rivnut? Can you buy plastic/rubber inserts that would work for this?

[Guest wunntenn]

I thought about that at the front and dismissed it as I was not sure about the ability of the pipe to shed the water - my experience of (making) aluminium windows (in the early days of that window technology) and trying to keep water out was that pipes often sucked water UP by capillary action depending on wind direction and ambient temp. causing more problems.

In my 110 I ended up with a bit of j-cloth on either side in the front, tucked tightly into the gutter, with the tail stuck out the window! The j-cloth wicked the water down and out the window and vehicle movement or the wind dries the wet end allowing a steady stream to wick out.

PS I know I know - it was like driving around in a tea trolley. What other vehicle gives you so much fun....er.....misery....er... entertainment....oh never mind....

[cackshifter]

Perhaps a nylon top hat washer dropped throough a hole amd tigersealed from underneath, then attach a tube to the stub, seal with heat shrink.

[reb78]

That's the sort of thing. I'll take a look later for something the correct size.

Re water wicking back up the tube, I would have thought it would be so long that it would prevent this if the tube ran from the roof gutter right down the rear corner to the wheel arch.

[cackshifter]

I'd be very interested to hear how it goes. I had this same idea, but hadn't followed it up. If there's one thing worse than getting a load of cold water dumped in your lap, it's having a load of cold water dumped in your stroppy daughter's lap while she's thundering along with you as passenger. Sunroofs etc have drains so I don't see why it can't work. I think the end of the tubes will have to face backwards rather than down, and be able to be reached easily so you can give a quick blow with an airline to remove anything living in it.

[V8 Freak]

Rich,

I was thinking similar with the 110.... It seemed impodssible to seal the roof and gutters so I was considering ways to let the water our formally....

You will need to created a block / end to the gutter at the front as it is open there... (Or use this design feature to let water down the A-pillar in a controlled fashion)

Rivnuts sit proud of the surface so would never drain fully, and I would suggest that if your truck leaks as much as mine used to, several drain points will be required

[reb78]

Something like this in various places might do with a long tube attached...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111941187-Headlight-Drain-Tube-VW-Beetle-1960-on-/281128775943?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item417494b107

It seems expensive - anyone know of a cheaper source?

For some reason, it seems like my 110 roof was put together with expanding foam so the channels are already blocked at the front. I don't know if it was an attempt to seal it at some point from the inside.

[FridgeFreezer]

You could always make the drain connector on a plate that is attached underneath the gutter with fasteners (eg rivets) either side of the hole, a smear of sealant on the join and you've got a flush fit.

TBH if you secure the downpipe so the connection isn't under stress you could just use silicone sealant / sikaflex / sugru to bond a washer or fitting on the underside.

[reb78]

You could always make the drain connector on a plate that is attached underneath the gutter with fasteners (eg rivets) either side of the hole, a smear of sealant on the join and you've got a flush fit.

TBH if you secure the downpipe so the connection isn't under stress you could just use silicone sealant / sikaflex / sugru to bond a washer or fitting on the underside.

Good point. Do you think that water would seep between the layers of metal - i.e. roof and top edge of the side panel that are sandwiched together? To combat this, i could raise the roof a little and seal between the layers at the point of the drain, or, i suppose i could smear some sealant inside the hole and avoid lifting the roof again (its all bolted down again now).

[Happyoldgit]

I think that the drain tubes need to be of a fairly decent bore size as anything on the small side won't drain freely and will quickly block up. Some of the old cars I've restored have had drain tubes set into the corners of the sliding head apertures [pre war terminology for a sun roof] with tubes of a good 1/2 inch or more running down the A & C pillars and exiting under the car - where they sometimes blocked up with road muck.

You have tried cleaning out the internal gutter and all the roof nooks and crannies and applying a good seam of Sikaflex or Tiger Seal haven't you - generally worked for me on vehicles with the same issue