Jump to content

Tdi Injection Pump Breather Leak


Recommended Posts

Evening all. My 200Tdi has developed a leak of diesel out of the breather at the back of the boost compensator housing on top of the injection pump. It runs out of the rubber 'wotsit' which covers the breather hole itself and then proceeds to make a mess of the chassis rail etc. below.

I've recently had the top of the boost compensator to free up the diaphragm and shaft as both were seized solid and I did use quite a lot of diesel & other lubricants to achieve this, so I wondered if this was just some more of this stuff which had been hiding in the pump somewhere making it's way out somehow. I took the top off again on Friday and cleaned it out so it was all dry. I then stuck a rubber glove over the breather to catch any further spilt diesel. After doing 120 odd miles today there is a small amount in the glove, so it would seem that there is diesel finding it's way out to this point somehow.

Clearly this is not meant to be. Anyone got any tips on where it might be coming from, why, or how to stop it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It will be coming past the o ring that seals the boost enrichment pin into the top housing.

(img)

Part no 67/16 on the drawing above.

Thanks Dan. That sounds like a fairly involved operation to get to it to replace the o ring. I'm guessing I must have buggered it when I freed off the stuck pin, maybe the pin has some corrosion on it and now it's sliding back and forth again it has damaged the o ring that way.

The glove will keep things dry for now, I have a spare pump which I can swap on at some point - unfortunately it'll need to go for a strip and rebuild first as all the settings have been played with and no references made to allow for putting it back to standard. Once that is done I can put it on and have a go stripping down the current pump myself to change that o ring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just swap the top housing over off your spare pump,

The spare pump has had everything fiddled with it would seem, which I'm not keen on and would rather have it standard.

Can I use the 'settings' of my standard pump to set up the other one then - i.e. set the max. fuel screw, smoke screw, star wheel, cone position etc. etc. by copying the settings off the standard pump top? For example measuring the max. fuel screw protrusion in threads on the 'old' top and setting the 'new' one to this position.

Or are the settings unique to each pump?

I suppose I've nothing to lose, I can always put the original top back on should it fail to work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The settings will be slightly different between pumps, but if you measure yours accurately it will get you 95+% of the way there

It would probably be worthwhile ordering a spindle kit and seal it before you start on it.

If you renewed the spindle bushing on your spare top housing ahead of time, the swap shouldn't really even take an hour end to end.

Ps. Steam clean your pump/engine thoroughly before taking your pump to bits, and take lots of pics with your phone as you go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The VE pump is very easy to fiddle with, if it black smokes off idle, main fuel screw needs winding out. If it poofs black smoke on boost it needs the star wheel winding adjusting. I wouldn't hesitate to play with it, they are very forgiving.

That pump you have, off memory has the starwheel maxed out and the main fuel screw wound in. Nothing else was adjusted on it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rather than start a new thread.... My mate just rang and tells me his 200 tdi FIP is leaking from the main join in the middle of it (guessing it is the O-ring 810 above). Now to change that O-ring is probably more than I want to attempt but he does have a known working pump on his old 200 tdi under the hedge! I plan to simply swap the pumps over for the time being.

Is there anything I should be wary off and steps I should take to make the swap easier to complete?

Any special tools I might need to obtain/make?

Cheers

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the pump under the bench has been sat empty for a while the govenor on it is most likely stuck so it'll idle the engine fine but as soon as you rev the engine it'll run away with you.

You can use special tools to save dismembering the timing case, there available from many places. You'll want a gasket for between the pump and timing case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well job done. Really rather simple in the end. 9mm drill bit to locate pump on donor truck and then remove spacer on side and locked it shut. Pump removed and taken back to my place. Working on the leaking truck I made a drivebelt pulley locking tool using the lock plate off the old truck, a couple of bolts and washers and a piece of flat bar with 2 holes drilled in it. Set to TDC, drill bit in the hole, lock the pulley and then simply removed pump. Other pump fitted straight back on, all plumbing and bits reattached, locking tool removed and spacer replaced, pump primed till fuel at injectors, and Bang. First turn of the key and runs like a swiss watch. I even managed to drain the cooling system down without losing a drop and then refill the system afterwards with it (having only serviced the truck about 4 weeks ago!)

I noted this morning that they want £120 for that special tool on Ebay :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To me it looks like it only has one setting. I.e. Flat Out. With the standard pin you have an infinitely variable adjustment between 2 defined end points. The most "extreme" setting on the standard pin will be more than a home tuner will need and I would imagine it will smoke so much at that setting it will need backing off a bit. The Ebay one does not give you that option. However. It will allow an even more extreme setting, which might be needed if running a VVT turbo, massive valves, water cooled intercooler, uprated pistons, etc. So basically, forget the Ebay pin unless you want to build an out and out competition truck to use offroad or a dragster to run at Santa Pod. There is more than enough adjustment in the standard pin and the rest of the pump to give you enough HP to destroy the standard engine sharpish if you so desire.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

It will be coming past the o ring that seals the boost enrichment pin into the top housing.

PicsPump_zps70dbe32e.jpg

Part no 67/16 on the drawing above.

Sorry for the thread resurrection!

I have the same issue on mine and wondered how easy a job it is to replace the o-ring. Is it simply mark position of rod, unscrew, replace o-ring and screw back in to marked position??

Can't really tell from the image and don't want to unscrew the pin and the internals change and the pin won't go back in!!

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the end I didn't bother and just sent my spare pump off to be reconditioned. For the sake of £360 I didn't want the hassle of opening the pump up. I had the company rebuild the pump to standard Defender spec - it was a Disco pump which had been fiddled with which wasn't to my liking.

If you've nothing to lose it can't hurt to take the pump apart and have a look. If I'm ever stuck for something to do I may open up my now spare one and see how that seal is accessed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not as simple as taking it apart and changing it. I have not done it and have lost the reference I had but "if" you want to try it then you need to undo the 4 bolts holding the end of the pump on, in sequence, a tiny bit at a time, so the end comes lose absolutely square. As soon as you can see the O-ring STOP. Hook the O ring out and pull it over the end of the pump. Stretch the new one over the pump and do the bolts up again very slowly and in sequence, a bit a t a time. Apparently easier on the bench but still possible on the truck.

I take no responsibility for this advice as it is not based on experience but on 2nd hand reading of another site. :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a very good article on adjusting fueling on the bosch pump that was posted on the aulro.com website (I think it's in "the good oil" section of the technical page). In my view this article is essential for anyone wanting to fiddle with their injeciton pump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy