Ebony123 Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Hi every one new to this site so would like to introduce myself I am currently undergoing a complete nut and bolt rebuild on my defender 110 and could do with someone's knowledge on nuts and bolts as far as I am aware people are starting to steer away from using stainless as it reacts with the galvanised steel So what if I were to use galvanised nuts and bolts to restore my defender back to tip top shape Any knowledge in this field would be greatly appreciated Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 I bought zinc plated nuts and bolts for all the major items on the ibex but make sure they are 8.8 and use copperslip or similar. I'm also using stainless for non structural but use with either tefgel or duralac. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 It sounds a good plan. SS certainly rots ally pretty badly. But the problem is differing metals touching each other. What you really need is a bag of hard plastic washers. (like some spotlight kits). I'm not saying fit the axels with plastic washers, but other stuff. certainly it is a real good trick for fastening splash panels under the wings. If you stop dirt accumulating around body fixtures by stopping the dirt in the first place it really helps the life span Plastic tubes round the thread as well if you can make that work? Basically 100% resistance between bolt and truck. I'm not sure on silicon sealer + nyloc nuts? Having seen how locktight can protect threads I wonder if that is an option? If you can remove the electrolosis or the moisture between the surfaces it'll work. The biggest threat is existing ally corrosion. I haven't figured how to kill that yet. I need to before I don't have an 88" S1 anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebony123 Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Cheers guys thanks for the help greatly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 The best thing to use on waterpump bolts etc to stop corrossion is this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEAD-STUD-SEALANT-GM-3835215-GENUINE-HOLDEN-BOLT-GASKET-SEALANT-AC-DELCO-250ML-/251463773911?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8c68aed7 Its the stuff originally specified for rangerover head, and waterpump bolts when launched back in early seventies , Ive used it for years , my current tin is nearly empty , so am about to find out if I can get in UK as i bought my last tin in Australia ! http://www.gracosupply.com/p-59192-3m-scotch-weld-ec-776-fuel-resistant-coating-quart-with-specs.aspx gives the specs used also in aviation industry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sighnbox Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 TEAM IDRIS ........." The biggest threat is existing ally corrosion. I haven't figured how to kill that yet" When you do please tell us all we will all be eternally grateful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 I bought white waterproof grease from a boat supplier specifically designed for galv fittings and metalwork. Time will tell if it helps prevent any reaction/corrosion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 I used bits of damp proof course (easy to cut and drill holes in) under washers to stop contact, and lots and lots on copperslip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Go to parker tools' website - they supply proper galvanised nuts, bolts, washers. I used these on my rebuild and am very glad that I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 I think I can say that I have some long term experience of using SS fixings on a LR. Back in 1999 I bought my 1986 ex-MOD 90 and then over the next 12-months completely rebuilt it using a new body (only original part retained was the seatbox). All fixings (apart from engine mounts, suspension, tow-points etc) were replaced with A2 SS and on assembly were put together with copious amounts of Copperslip and / or Waxoyl. To this day I have never had any corrosion cause by the use of SS fixings. The door-frame has reacted with the alloy skin and the alloy windscreen frame has had to be rubbed down and repainted but none of the fixings have caused any problems. Working on the vehicle is a delight as all fixings come undone with an ease that is totally unexpected (bearing how long it has been together). The only place I took any additional precautions is where the rear tub bolts to the cross-member, I made up some plastic gaskets out of an ice-cream tub and slotted these between the five tabs and the tub. The SS door-hinge screws went into the standard captive nuts but once again copious amounts of Waxoyl on assembly meant that when I removed the doors last year they came undone with ease. I learnt long before then that using SS bolts on the exhaust was the way to go, no matter how rotten a joint is the bolts always undo and I have never snapped a SS bolt or had to cut one off which was almost always the case with HTS ones. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 I used this bolt kit on my 110 chassis change & lots of copper grease.http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/Land-Rover-Defender-110-Chassis-Bolt-Kit_AJ5PM.aspx?nh=1 all my steering/suspension/towbar bolts are standard 8.8HT as LR intended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 On ally corrosion all I can find really is; http://www.vanchem.com/better-alternative-to-using-phosphoric-acid-on-aluminum . I've used Genolight on steel and a few applications is good. I've also used it post-sand-blasting where it works brilliantly to get those last pesky rust crystals out. The worse the quality the metal, the better the effect! But I couldn't get it to work well on ally. It does appear to be the thing to use though, so I can only think to use genolight or something similar and wash it off before it dries ugly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 I think phosphoric acid is supposed to treat Aluminium corrosion ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.