The problem gets far worse any ideas anyone

[sighnbox]

Ok new heavy duty clutch, clutch fork, rod etc etc on 09/08/2006

8-12 month ago new clutch pedal, master and slave clutch cylinders but she not even done 1000 miles (slave was a Lockheed, Lucas master)

The clutch pedal would engage the clutch about half way down

Leave home she drives ok with in a few mile I notice when I put my foot down she starts to slip and not pull away with hard acceleration

Keep driving and the slip is still there if I accelerate gently she bits and pulls if I accelerate hard she slips. Mainly in first gear

Within 5 mile the slipping gets far worse in all gears until I've vitally no pull at all 20-30 mph max teasing her along I go to turn round and my clutch pedal hits the floor and stays there .

I pick up my clutch pedal and try again nothing at all. The master cylinder is empty and I had clutch fluid out my bell housing hole. Now had the seals on the slave cylinder failed or had I pushed the piston out by lifting the clutch and depressing it again.

When the slave was removed the piston was out now I may of pulled it out when removing the slave I don't know.

Ok two days of messing about trying to get the push rod in and that horrid plastic clip in but eventually its mended with a completely new slave cylinder not a seal kit.

I pick it up from my friend who spent a day getting the clip in for me and drive about a mile with every thing being fine....I did notice the clutch pedal had to be depressed a lot lower to engage the clutch about 3-4 inches from the floor.

After a mile or so all was ok and I put my stereo on when I reached home 6 miles later I turned of the stereo and noticed I would push the clutch pedal down and half way down a sort of rubbing grinding sound ....push the pedal flat to the floor and that would go ...there may of be a slight squeak when the pedal was flat. Let the pedal up and the same sound , With the engine just running no horrid sounds.

An hour later I decide to do a test drive. every time a change gear and use the pedal I get the noise mentioned. 400 meter odd from home the pedal goes flat to the floor again. I get home on the drive.

I look in the master cylinder and its full look under the bell housing and no fluid. I then try the pedal and then fluid out the bell housing. All the time now the engine is running I have a sequel sound.

Just to add the first time the cylinder failed and with the engine running was no horrid sounds

So any ideas any one ???

[pete3000]

grating noise could be clutch idler bearing and/or slippers on the clutch fork? how many miles since the clutch was done? any wading or pay and play to contaminate it or bearing?

[sighnbox]

NO deep water for years only thing been in there is all the clutch fluid from the first one failing on me and id say miles wise is a guess when I got it it had 170 tho on the clock now has 207 so that's about 37 tho in 10 years so average 4 tho a year the clutch was end mid 06 so about 28 -30 tho since the clutch was done isn't it

[Bowie69]

What make was the clutch?

[xychix]

if the resevoir is empty the fluid should have gone somewhere... you'll need to find it I guess..

[sighnbox]

Sorry so long ago cant remember the make all I remember was buying a heavy duty one

[sighnbox]

Yes Xychix it ran out the bell housing hole so out the slave cylinder in to the bell housing as say don't think the seal failed as when I got it on the drive the pedal was flat to the floor and I checked the master and it was full and NO leak from the bell housing I then tried the pedal got under her and a river of fluid out of there

[vulcan bomber]

Check the clutch pedal adjustment, i get the impression the pushrod in the master is notbeing fully released.

[pete3000]

If you are getting it done then it goes without saying put a branded new clutch in anyway, the only special tools you need is a trolley jack transmission cradle and ratchet strap.

or hire an engine crane and support it through the middle seat with the access panel and tunnel cover out.

The rest is nuts and bolts, theres likely to be a guide in the tech archive.

edit here is one,

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4380

[sighnbox]

I had no slip at all with the new slave cylinder on just the horrid noise when the pedal was half down and it has been working fine with the new pedal and master for a year odd up until now

So if a new clutch what would be a good make brand to get (heavy duty) ????

[pete3000]

valeo 130 £88 kit (should include bearing) or AP (non HD) around £60. If i was doing it again i'd fit the hd. get a decent small cable tie for the pushrod clip into clutch fork, nylon66 esque, like a hellerman tyton or similar that don't uv degrade or go brittle in a short while. Forget B&Q or maplin pvc ty-raps or cable ties.

Pete

[sighnbox]

Thanks Pete thats great advice especially about what cable tie to use I have seen lots fork/rod mods on the net some below. The top one looks well strong

This last one looks like a tree tie

[sighnbox]

Found this may of be of use to some one looking to replace as well

Name Flywheel Type Torque Capacity Pedal Feel
Comments Valeo Replacement Kit Single Mass 230 ft/lbs. (5 speed) Stock Kits are available for all TDIs, including 6 speeds. 6 speed kit handles more torque. SACHS Clutch Kit for DMF Dual Mass (uses OE) 250 ft/lbs Stock Stock replacement for 2000 and later TDIs SACHS G60/VR6 Kit Single Mass 300 ft/lbs. Stock Great for moderate power upgrades, 14, 17, and 22 lb. flywheels available LUK OEM Clutch Kit Dual Mass Approx 300 ft/lbs. Stock or lighter This was original equipment on ’99.5 A4 chassis TDIs. Stronger than later clutch setups. South Bend Stage 2 Daily for SMF Single Mass 325 ft/lbs. Heavier than stock Organic material on both disk surfaces. Stock engagement feel. South Bend Stage 2 Endurance for SMF Single Mass 425 ft/lbs. Heavier than stock Uses Feramic (sintered iron) on the flywheel side of the disk. Stock engagement feel South Bend Stage 2 Endurance for DMF Dual Mass (Sachs) 380 ft/lbs. Heavier than stock Same as SMF Stage 2 Endurance kit, but uses OE flywheel from MKIV cars.

[western]

on my 200tdi last clutch change I used these genuine Valeo.plate & cover.

cover URB100760

friction plate UQB000130

LT77 release bearing FTC5200

a walk through on the Valeo web catologue I posted a while ago,

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/western214h/media/Valeo%20website/IMG_0798.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6

[simonr]

Sounds like the clutch release bearing to me. The LR ones have a plastic outer, designed not to last long! It has a couple of ears on it which engage with the release fork - and they seem to wear / break off giving the symptom you describe - pedal dropping to floor + squealing / graunching sound.

Someone on here http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/diff_offroad.php sells a replacement metal bearing carrier which I saw at Donnington and made a mental note to buy when I next need to replace the clutch! For the clutch itself, I'd fit a genuine one from a main dealer. Not the cheapest but at least you know what you are getting!

Si

[sighnbox]

Thanks simor that's made me feel a lot better its the not knowing more than anything whats wrong with her I think western suggested the same as well on another thread I had about its first break down...and yes I would rather pay and do it once especially as I will be paying some one to do it ....I see they do a heavy duty clutch fork as well that looks far better than any other heavy one Ive seen so far.

[western]

you can beef up your existing operating fork arm by welding on a thick washer over the rod recess or a plate over it like the photo's above

[sighnbox]

I think I will get the Megasquir Xcess heavy duty cluch bearing £52 and the heavy duty clutch fork £17 as suggested by simonr My only concern is there website has no address on it and just a mobile no land line number...any one brought from them ?? Just seams a bit odd to run a business and not have a land line and the business address on the website tho does look professional. http://www.megasquir...iff_offroad.php

[Nigelw]

The mega squirter you describe is our very own Hybrid From Hell think you'll be safe buying from him LOL

Liked the plate over idea

[sighnbox]

Yes found him thanks nigelw and sent a email about the parts

[dave88sw]

Have you ever changed the flexi hose? They can delaminate and act like a 1 way valve, as your clutch gets progressively worse with use it seems to fit the symptoms. Nice cheap and easy starting point even if it doesn't solve the problem.

[sighnbox]

No dave I haven't so yes will try that first

[sighnbox]

Ok update she is being pulled apart on Saturday by me and a friend (basically me being a go for spanner boy) But I will get to see how its done.....New LUK clutch and cover, One of Nigel's ( megasquirt-v8.co.uk) who I must say was so helpful and put up with my stupid questions ....his uprated release bearings and uprated strengthened clutch forks (what I will then mod some more to hold that dam plastic clip in place as below pic) A new genuine clip....and pray she is ok after will let you know the results....... A real big thank you to every one who posted and offered advice and help

OR not sure which yet to hold the horrid clip

[Reiny]

I had similar symptoms once. It turned out to be warped fingers on the clutch cover.

[sighnbox]

Fingers crossed Reiny it is just the clutch and nothing more ...Its being done on Saturday...so Saterday night I will hopefully be celebrating with a curry and loads real Ale