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Very leaky transfer box


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So I was driving tonight and I get a vibration from what felt like the rear at 50/60mph (thought it was a loose tyre as that happened yesterday but got and checked and they were all okay). Get it back to the hotel (I'm on holiday to make it even more fun) and have a look under the car and I can see a nice yellow oil pouring out of the transfer box. It's coming out of the front of it so where the prop shaft for the front diff connects (if that make sense).

So 2 questions, can I drive it? (Guessing not!)

2nd anybody near by (Callander Scotland) that could help me out? Meant to be going home tomorrow night but at this stage I'm not going anywhere without a flatbed!

I'm hoping it's just a quick seal change? Am I right? Please say I am :( it seems to be all going wrong with my defender just now and pay feels far away still!

Thanks

Stephen

Forgot to say its a 1986 defender 90 with a 300tdi engine and the original lt77 gearbox and transfer box

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Had it my self a few times and as far as I know from my experience and was told as long as you keep that transfer box topped up (I think EP80) but some one will tell you for sure you can still drive it ...as Ive all ways done and its been ok I had new seals in mine over and over they last 6-12 month then the drip starts and then when it gets bad I change it and we start all over again ....cheer up Stephen mines been a bugger at the mo as well ....It don't take long to change if you some tools and some where you can get a seal from there dead cheap for gen ones....Not sure why a vibration tho unless UJ as well or the flange its self the prop bolts to..... get under it and see if there's any movement in that UJ (use HD one when replace)...if it is running rather than dripping sounds like a new seal and poss flange if that's whats rubbed it

To add to that I have asked why it keeps happening and been told by landy special garage that part of the transfer box its self wears allowing the seal to be worn and ask the guys in here I bet loads of us have a drip or drip drip drip transfer box

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EP90 oil in the t'box, ATF in the LT77.

It might be a quick seal change, but it could be that something else is wrong. I would whip the front prop off the t'box, and make sure you can't waggle the flange around. If you can, its a knackered bearing and just changing the seal won't stop it, it'll need proper repair. At the same time you can check that the slider and both UJ's on the front prop are in good condition, and it's not one of them seized that's killed he t'box.

I wouldn't drive it if the flange does waggle around.

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So just to update people incase anyone else has this problem. I had the AA come and move it since I had no tools and I was on holiday and the thought of lying on my back, on stones in the rain did not appeal to me at all!

I had them take my defender to Strathearn Engineering in Perthshire and I they were able to sort it on the same day. I probably arrived about 1pm and they had it sorted and ready for me to take away at 3:30pm. Excellent service from them!

The changed the front flange along with the seals and refilled it with oil :)

Stephen :)

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So I'm back and more confused than before! So when going uphill I get really bad vibration through the whole car. The transfer box front flange seal is fine this time though and isnt leaking at all. There is some play in the flange, it's sliding in and out if the transfer box, not much but it's noticable.

I originally thought it was the front prop (there was play in the splines) took it off and the problem is still there (driving wth diff lock on so just rear wheel drive)

When I put the clutch in there is a clunk from the transfer box (doesn't matter how quick or slow I press the clutch in). The rear prop has no play in it that I can see, could it be the transfer box front bearing? Just thinking it was the front flange that went last time and im wondering if it took the bearing out with it?

It's todo with the transfer box but just not sure how so any ideas to try and find the problem would be great since im at a loss now.

Stephen

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Drop the rear of the prop and recheck the security of the flange would be my initial thought, if ok I'd start to look at checking to make sore the transmission brake isn't binding then I'd probably be taking the bottom plate off the transfer box for a look-see at the innards.

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Soakes .....your land sound like mine at the moment just one thing instantly after another had ..Ive had 3 as soon as ones mended within a day next thing ...daren't ever drive the thing at the moment ...Ive had all your prob several times over ....Normally a UJ, the main flange but all so once it was the rear A frame upper link ball.....caused vibration and a clunk every time I used the clutch...just an idea

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Start with checking out the rear prop and then the handbrake, if it's still there with the front prop removed. It sounds like a power thing if you get it going up hill, rather than a wheel issue which I'd expect regardless, which might well indicate t'box, but check the rear prop and that first.

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So I had a climb under again to look for play in the rear prop and there was nothing. Then realised that I was checking with the hand brake on, I didn't think it would make much difference with it being on or off but it does!! The rear prop is away! Lots of play in the rear UJ.

One thing I wanted to check before I put it all back together is that I'm not sure what way round the props should go. Do I want the rear prop slider beside the diff or transfer box and do I want the front prop slider beside the diff or beside the transfer box? Its a 1986 defender 90 country station wagon with a 300tdi (Just incase any of that makes a difference!)

Changing all the parts tomorrow so will hopefully come back with good news tomorrow afternoon! And if not I will back looking for more help!

Thanks to everyone that has helped me so far!

Stephen

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Both props should have the slidey-joint bits clocest to the transfer-box.

If the props have been taken off for working on them and the splined joint has been separated, check the 'phasing' of the UJs on reassembly - if the splined slidey-joint is reassembled in the wrong place on the spline rotation it can cause vibrations from the UJs.

Of course everyone says "mark the propshaft either side of the spline to make sure it gets reassembled in the correct position" but the voice-of-experience says "remember to use a degreaser-proof mark".

Guess who found out the hard way that Jizer dissolves Tipp-Ex?

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