IanT90 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 I have more oil leaks than a North Sea oil rig and I am patiently working through them all, don't expect to ever resolve them all permanently but need to make the effort for the sake of my drive way which now has more dark spots than a leopard. This leads me to my dilema. I have leaks on both sides of my front axel the drivers side which I can live with for time being, just small drip occasionally. The the passanger side however, is significantly worse. Both leaks are eminating from the swivel's so its a seal replacement. I looked up the procedure for replacing the swivel housing seal bit of a pain just to replace a seal but what the hell its stright forward not a problem. Then on close inspection I noticed the swivel ball itself has raised rust spots which explains why the seal is leaking. Now the job has got bigger, replacement swivel bearings and bearing housings etc. The question is do i replace like for like i.e. polished chrome or go for the new style Teflon coated ? Third option is to get original ball refurbished and re-chromed, not sure if its an option or even cost effective ? Any suggestions or recommendations would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Other options - 1 - remove swivel, and remove the rust with a die grinder on a dremel tool, back to good.. Fill the hole with two part epoxy, like real steel mixed with alu dust. hand sand to a smooth finish. Refit. 2 - fit a leather gaiter set, like the army did - ensure leather is soaked with vaseline first. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 If it's just the seal replacement I only over take the 6/7 bolts out of the end of the axle tube, never strip the swivel assembly. If the ball needs doing then you've no choice but to strip the lot. It's not too bad a job really, just make sure you've a seat the right height to do it. I used chrome balls about 6 years ago and they're still fine. No gaiters on mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Like the refurb idea using 2 part epoxy resin with aluminium dust, big saving over replacing the swivel. Dont know when or if the axel has ever been stripped so may as well do full refurb of all bearings and seals, just cannot decide if I am going to all this trouble of a full strip and refurb whether to replace the swivel or refurb it now ? Used the old leather gators on my series landrover many years ago, great for keeping mud and grit out but still cause water/moisture retention even if they are soaked in vaseline. I have considered the new rubber type gators but again same issue, moisture ingress so think I will give gators a miss, Price of a replacement Chrome versus Teflon are about the same, so probably go for the Teflon coated should last longer than chrome. Common sense says bite the bullet and replace swivel, but If I can get a couple of years out of the original by refurbing then cost saving and effort may be worth it. Thanks for the feedback, let you know what route I go probably depends how bad the corrosion is on the swivel so need to get it off and see first ! Cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=87706&hl=swivel#entry755289 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=87712&hl=swivel#entry755231 suggested reading before ploughing out for the replacement swivel balls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Thanks thats confirmed that I should stay clear of cheap parts and pay the extra for genuine Landrover parts in future. Might have even swayed the balance towards refurb of my originals. Looks like the re-chrome options out the window for the time being Its at least given me lots to think about ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Cheapest OEM swivel I found is from Paddock £98 - Three after market suppliers Allmakes, Britparts and Bearmach. Any feedback on Bearmach parts, read couple of reviews on Britparts and not much confidence so avoiding, Allmakes seems really cheap so definately staying clear. Staying with OEM is the most sensible option, but would consider Bearmach if I got recommendations ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sighnbox Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Its deff worth doing as had both mine go as if not the dam grease runs down on the discs and contaminates your brake pads ..costing even more money for a new set ....two dam sets for me one when one side went another when the other side seal failed ...mine were stripped right out and done all the seals ..gen landy seals not a lot of money ........no more leaks and I don't get rocketed left or right across the road when I brake now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 All of the Bearmach stuff I've used has been superb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I always use Bearmach or Allmakes and I've never had issue's with either.....Blue box on the other hand..... I don't understand the reason for the teflon's failing, surely the ball underneath is still the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonovice Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Britpart appear to be undergoing a revolution at the moment, I've bought a couple of bits and pieces recently (by mistake) and had no issues... Allmakes are OK. Bearmach top notch in my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Got couple of jobs to do first oil leaks all around engine so all new pipes sump gasket plug seal etc. When thats done next priority balls and seals think I will go with Bearmach for parts seems like majority approve there parts. Hopefully then I will have the worst oil leaks sorted and can carry on with the internal trim etc unless any other nasty surprises occur mechanically. Once again thanks for the input its appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJM90V8 Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Replaced mine with non-genuine (chrome) years ago and they have been perfect. Sorry that I can't remember which make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Did this to one of mine last night... found that the bottom of the ball was mega rough/pitted, so I made a filler using aluminium filings and super glue... (its all I had at the time) - now just looking for a decent filler material to sort any other problems like this again. Just watch the weight of the axle end when you remove it, its b***dy heavy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Fitted BP Teflon ones to my 90 back in 2007 and they have been perfect. Prior to purchasing I contacted several workshops to see what they fit themselves (not what they sell in the shop but actually fit to customer vehicles) and they all said they used BP and didn't have any issues. I think my experience bears this out. Previously I had paid lots of money and bought genuine LR chrome ones and they lasted 2-years before pitting was visible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Fitted BP Teflon ones to my 90 back in 2007 and they have been perfect. Prior to purchasing I contacted several workshops to see what they fit themselves (not what they sell in the shop but actually fit to customer vehicles) and they all said they used BP and didn't have any issues. I think my experience bears this out. Previously I had paid lots of money and bought genuine LR chrome ones and they lasted 2-years before pitting was visible. Cor that fills me with confidence, such surety! I've been worrying about mine ever since I fitted them but maybe I'll stop now....... :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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