ThreePointFive Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 I have done some pretty stupid things during my time as a member of this forum, but today I've done a big one. I am trying to fit cruise control onto a Discovery 2, as per the instructions below: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/cruise_install.html There are two Torx head bolts on the rear of the steering wheel that hold the cover on. In attempting to remove this I somehow forgot that going anti-clockwise on a bolt that is facing you is actually tightening it. Subsequently I have rounded out the head. Words would not adequately describe how ****ed off I am with myself. So, I have a rounded out head in a recess that is approx 1.5" deep x .5" wide, with the instrument binnacle about 5" behind it, meaning very little access. I've tried putting an allen key on it but this just stripped out what was left. I can't cut a slot in the head to get a flat screwdriver on it due to the depth, I can't hammer anything into it as there's no room to get force behind it, I can't heat it up as it's right next to an airbag. I would appreciate any help right now, because I am royally ****ed. I'll post a picture tomorrow if that helps describe the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Guess your only option is a right angle drill adaptor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squaddiefox Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 try getting an electrical screwdriver around the same size and using as much brute force as you can turn it the right way. A skinny blade will grip the slightest of surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 I'd try making your own extractor. A short square section bar that you can hammer into the head of the screw, then turn with a spanner or pliers. There are many types of extractor based on that idea, have a look here for inspiration. I say make your own as you'll need the shortest one possible to give you hammering space. The real trouble will be hammering it in, so investigate whether adjusting the wheel down gives you a bit more hammer swinging space, or whether you can drop out the whole steering column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Its not kind to the tool but sometimes you can grip between the now round hole and the edge with side cutters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMB Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 You might be lucky and get a stubby easy-out in there. Almost certainly longer than 1.5" and shorter than 6.5", so will fit between Torx head and binnacle and a stubby start version may not require drilling of the torx head. Cheap at £3.99 from Screwfix or similar, so worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 First - plus gas to ease it, it all helps. Then a dremel tool with a cutting disk to cut a slot, taking care to stop the grinder dust from marking anything, then a right angle screwdriver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 I'm trying to recall whether its plastic that's at the bottom of the void, I think it is. No chance to get a dremmel in that tube but you might be able to get hot air from a gas iron into it. That would allow you to soften the plastic which would make extraction of the screw easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 It might be easier to sacrifice the cover, cut it off and get a new one. I can't recall properly but I don't think there isn't anything electrical attached to it. Can so,some else confirm? I guess disconnect the battery if you go down this route to avoid accidentally setting off the airbag. Heathy on the D2boysclub forum would probably be able to supply a new cover from a scrapper. (Other option is to forget about the cruise control) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 Thanks to you all for the replies, yet again this forum comes through for ideas. Taking on board what some of you said, I went to screwfix and got an easy out set - but even at the smallest size it's not able to get a bite on the metal without the pilot hole and I can't get enough gap between the wheel and binnacle to tap them (or any other tool) in either. I can't use any form of heat because it will just wreck the wheel on the side I cannot afford to ruin and knowing a bit about airbags, I don't really fancy it. I am tempted to pull off the cover as it wouldn't be too difficult with one screw already out, though I'd need a replacement in my hands before I do it, so for the moment I need to hold off. I need the cruise in the car so I'm going to ask a my local friendly garage for them to use a right-angle drill on it, the screw is scrap anyway so this seems the next least destructive way forward. If that fails I'll have to consider the other suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Where are you based? I have a right angled drill attachment but if you aren't nearby it might not be much use! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Also, this chap is quite good for secondhand D2 spares: Paul McGill, Discovery2partsATsupanetDOTcom replace AT and DOT with @ and . obviously! I've got his phone number too. PM me if you need it. He'll sort you out with a replacement cover if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 Reb, thank you so much for the offer but I'm in Somerset, will be a bit of a trek! The garage is my best bet, it's not a problem. If there's any problems then I'll be going the route of breaking it, I'll email the guy you suggest if it's going that badly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 if you need a right angled drill adaptor to have a go yourself they sell them in screwfix for about a tenner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Can you not pull the steering wheel and get it on the bench? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Can you not pull the steering wheel and get it on the bench? Can't get to the nut to take it off without removing the cover that is held on my be rounded screws in question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 I just love it when that kind of thing happens... Not really sure what to suggest haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Do you have access to an Arc Welder? If so, get a bit of round bar, weld a nut on one end then hold the bar in the jaws of your torch and plunge it in to the head of the bolt to be removed. It will get hot quickly but if you release the bar from the torch fairly quick, the plastic won't melt too much. Squirt some water in the hole then remove using a spanner on the nut. It's worked on a number of recessed bolts with rounded heads. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Great tip Si never thought of that, I assumed it would need to arc with filler rod applied! This a bit like a spot weld I guess? Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Also I know there isn't much room but I have had some success hammering in the next size up, eg if T27 rounded out then T30 might still grip, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 If you cant get access to rear of wheel, how about removing top portion of column by dropping top mounts to allow it to drop towards seat. Not sure of mechanism but there should be sliding portion for distance adjust and tilt should come off uj of some sort. By removing drivers knee plastic and surround. Once out you can get it on the bench for better access or swap out for another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-Steering-Column-OMB101950-Land-Rover-Discovery-2-TD5-/370921998175 picture is worth a thousand....... 4 bolts and a pinch bolt on the uj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 It's out! After faffing around, with limited options available I decided to take qwakers' suggestion and got a 90 degree angled drill adapter and swung the wheel the other way so that it was below the column, which offered slightly more room (the angle into the column still limited access). I had hoped the easy-outs would work better with some power behind them but they only served to (slowly) mill out the head and be useless as both an extractor and a drill bit, so I resorted to good old fashioned drill bits instead. So, now I have cruise control, and am in desperate need of a new bolt. Turns out Land Rover are only too happy to sell me one for £600, though it does come with a free steering wheel. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions, even though I didn't use all of them they were still valuable to know what I could do if each option didn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 what is it M5 or M6? i would guess M5? i would just replace them both with machine screws, so they match, because even though no one will ever see them, one torx and one machine screw would be a very silly combination. or is that just me? i do spend longer than most poeple lining up all the screw heads so the slots or crosses all point the same way... maybe i need help... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Hard to tell, think it's M6. I'll see if I just have a standard bolt to fit, if not I'll seek the nearest thing I can find at the local fasteners specialist. I agree with having both the same, more to eliminate any potential issues should the worst happen, not so much for aesthetics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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