schoolboy_vet Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 HI I'm currently in a decision whether to repaint my defender as it has old paint flaking off in places and could really do with a touch Up I have seen a couple of posts about hand painting and just wondered what people's experience is with doing this and any tips. Ollie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dag019 Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I am currently hand roller painting my series. It is very simple to do, and in my opinion gives a finish that is perfectly acceptable for an old land rover. I am doing it piece by piece and removing everything that unbolts, easier on a series than a defender. Then i am stripping, painting and reassembling. If you were not as bothered about the final finish and were keeping it the same colour you could leave the vehicle complete and carefully mask it up and paint the whole thing in one. Doing it this way you could probably do it in a weekend. I have been painting mine since before Christmas one panel at a time. As with all painting the finish depends on the prep work more than the painting itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewbar Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 There is a wikihow on hand painting cars, also look for rustoleum and plastidip they're both products people have good success with in diy form. Of course there is always NATO green for a land rover! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony90 Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I do mine with a brush every couple of years. FIrst time using International Matt Black. Last time was Night Black Matt from a company called Fascinating Finishes Ltd. £22 for 750ml which just about covered my 90. The finish is good enough for me and can be done in a few hours. Certainly don't bother masking anything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schoolboy_vet Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 I was thinking of painting it in hammerite (hammered dark green) as this will hide any brush strokes roller marks. my other option was to paint the same colour that it is now but I can't find out what colour it is. Ollie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Hammerite used to apply really well with no brush marks. However at some point they must have changed the formulation and it is absolute carp now. I wouldnt touch the stuff anymore.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schoolboy_vet Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Okay I may have to change that I knew the smooth coated hammerite isn't great. Any suggestions on another make that does a similar thing like no need for undercoat ect. I don't mind if I have to do an undercoat Just want a nice finish and decent paint. Ollie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Depends what kind of finish your hoping to achieve. Mine didnt have 2 panels the same colour when i started. I flatted mine back a little then painted with Simoniz matt black acrylic. 1. Because i think it looks cool and 2. If it gets scratched (which any defender worth its salt will) its really easy to touch up and make look good again. Something that cant be said of gloss coats.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 I'd echo the above - hammerite isn't what it once was. I've started using Rustoleum now, and very pleased with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schoolboy_vet Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B008HZGS74/ref=mp_s_a_1_47?qid=1427902427&sr=8-47π=SL140_SX115_CR0,0,115,140&keywords=rustoleum+green I'm looking at keeping mine a dark green like it is already. Does this rustoleum paint look like the type of paint needed Ollie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 I thought everyone just used the coach enamel you get from "the paint man" who's at all the Land Rover shows. Rollers on nicely and the finish is decent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 I thought everyone just used the coach enamel you get from "the paint man" who's at all the Land Rover shows. Rollers on nicely and the finish is decent +1 Rollered my Series III with bog standard coach enamel (can't remember if it was from him or someone else but much the same stuff), got a pretty good finish. Forgive the dirt and dust but the finish is good, honest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 I rollered mine with coach paint from Turners. It's surprisingly good and durable, and they'll mix whatever colour you want if you give them the paint code. A google search will reveal their website. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schoolboy_vet Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 Ooooo okay more things for me to look at now with the coach enamel. Are they able to match a colour if you don't know the code at all. Ollie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 I bought coach enamel in Trident Green from Craftmaster paints, they have an online shop and are on that auction site too. I was pleasantly surprised with the finish I achieved with a nasty cheapo brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schoolboy_vet Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 I bought coach enamel in Trident Green from Craftmaster paints, they have an online shop and are on that auction site too. I was pleasantly surprised with the finish I achieved with a nasty cheapo brush. Did you do much prepping other then sanding down before using the coach enamel? Ollie (vet) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Ollie, I should add that I have only painted local repairs, and touch up areas so far. I'm afraid I'm notoriously lazy when it comes to paint prepping. I know that a good paint job needs good preparation, but I don't have a lot of time or patience, so tend to skip what I can get away with. Where I added new metal in the footwells it was primed with red oxide, then a coat of top colour. Despite being a thin liquid, the paint covered so well I didn't need to do a second coat. I had expected to need a second coat to cover red, but this paint seems to have very dense pigment. On the outer bodywork I was dealing with 'body scab' aluminium corrosion, typically the door bottoms. The old paint had blistered with lots of white powder behind. I wire brushed this off and gave it a coat of green directly. My truck is no concourse example, but I feel that if there is body colour instead of corrosion, it certainly looks tidier. Ally corrosion is hard to keep at bay. I've spent lots of time in the past with filler primer and sanding, trying to make it look great, but it soon blisters again, hence the tendency not go too mad to keep it vaguely respectable. Where my brushing overlapped the original good paint the finish is great, and it has survived plenty of mud and jet washing. I'm not saying you don't need to prep, but it's surprising what you can get away with ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 just a thought but you will get a much nicer finish with a spray can, providing you prepare the car well and the car doesn't look like a jamaican steel drum to begin with - It's going to take a lot of time to do it badly anyway so you might as well invest a little extra and get a decent finish, if the car warrants it in the first place - go to your local bodyshop supplies place and get them to mix up some tins of acrylic paint in whatever colour you want, though you'll need less paint if you go the same colour or a darker shade. They normally have a much better spray nozzle than the stuff you get off the shelf with a decent spray fan, and more paint in the tin. One of the drawbacks with an enamel paint is the slow drying time, difficult to stop stuff settling in it if your doing it outdoors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 if you want to paint a full Lanny and arnt too bothered about keeping the original factory colour then roller painting is a good method - BUT - it does take a long time to do properly. I've painted my 110, numerous bike frames and the upper front roof area of my Transit with rollers. The basic idea is to get as thick layer of paint on as smooth as possible then flatten back with 1500 grit to remove the roller lumpy surface, then keep repeating until you have a decent paint thickness/smooth surface. Finish off with t-cut/cutting compound then wax to protect. Rustoleum is a great paint - but I believe but is funny about being recoated in anything other than Rustoleum. It is available in white/tintable that can be pigmented to any colour. I get it from Decor8 in Bury because im local (ish) Hammerite - is carp nowadays, forget it. If you are wanting to do small areas - then Halfords aerosols are surprisingly good, the match to my Frozen white Transit was spot on and far better than other suppliers. It covered well and rust hasn't reappeared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluehaze Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I originally painted the 110 in smooth red hammerite but after 6 years the finish has gone rather dull and is flaking in certain areas. I've started to rub it down in preparation for painting it by hand in coach enamel. As others have said, the key is in the preparation. I aim to get three layers on to give a deep finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 If you want to paint over hammerite with anything except hammerite youd bé best off if you machine sanded all the hammerite off first... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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