florin Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Hi all, I hope someone can help, I have a Defender TD5 from 1999. The ECU Part number is NNN500020 (I bought it like this, I suspect it was done by the garage under warranty) I wired the cruise control switches (pins 10, 11, 15 and 17) - it's not working. From Nancom: Info: ECU Part Number: NNN500020 Cruise Lamp: DISABLED Cruise Control: ENABLED Inputs: Brake Switch 1: OFF Brake Switch 2: ON -> OFF if I apply 12V to pin 10 together with pin 15 Clutch Switch: OFF Cruise Control: ON - when I apply 12V to pin 10 and 15 Cruise Resume: OFF -> ON if I apply 12V Set Accelerate: OFF -> ON if I apply 12V Instruments: The Engine speed displays OK The Road speed displays OK I do have a 1.21 transfer box but it does not work in any gears (I would like to confirm it's working on the 4th before installing a "speed healer" device) I tried to remove the pin 10 so the Brake Switch 2 stays ON and still would not engage. (I did that because second brake switch is a normal ON (closed) circuit according to Nanocom) To try to make it work I accelerate in 4th past 40 KPH and apply 12V to pin 11 (SET). The Set Accelerate (in Nanocom) does turn ON but then goes back to OFF when I release the button and the car slows down. I tried to keep the switch pressed longer... no difference. I tried the same with Reset and nothing. Is there anything else I should check? Are there any other conditions that must be met before the CC would work? Thank you for any help I can get. /Florin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Silly question time..... You do have a permanent 12 volt feed to pins 10 & 15 when the engine is running (Use ignition switched live) You only momentary feed 12 volt to pins 11 or 17 to set or resume respectively (And pin 17 again to switch off cruise temporarily) I'd also make sure your clutch switch isn't momentatily tripping closed due to road undulations.... Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
florin Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 Hi Neil, Yes, I use a "permanent on/off" switch from position II of ignition for 10 and 15 and a momentary (window rocker switch) for 11 and 17. I will check the clutch switch. Thank you. /Florin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
florin Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 Just checked the clutch witch and it seems OK. Nanocom reports OFF all the time even if I drive on a bumpy road. To avoid confusion on my original post: I now believe the pin 10 needs the 12V (as instructed by all internet posts). I think Nanocom reports the state of the pedal rather than the state of the electrical connection. In other words: when Nanocom displays Brake Switch 2: ON, it means the pedal is depressed. This is contrary to what the Nanocom manual says (which is what confuses me): From the manual: "Brake switch 2: This displays the state of the footbrake pedal brake switch 2 as seen by the TD5 ECU. This switch is only fitted to vehicles equipped with cruise control. Failure of this switch would disable cruise control. It should show OFF with the Brake pedal depressed and ON when the Brake pedal is released." /Florin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 As I mentioned in my post above, pins 10 & 15 both need permanent / ignition controlled live while engine running. Pin 11 needs momentary 12 volts to set cruise speed, pin 17 needs momentary 12 volts to resume or temporarily stop cruise. Hopefully the attached will clear things up. (Fingers crossed) Regards Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
florin Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 Hi Neil, Thank you for the diagram. That is exactly the one I used (or a very close version). And yes, the 10 and 15 are continuously connected to +12V. I am sure about this as Nancom does display Cruise Control: ON when I switch the OnOff button (on your diagram) and stays ON until I switch it off (basically for the entire test drive). Today I saved lived data from Nanocom (speed vs rev) and did the math with the help of Ashcroft calculator: At 73 KPH I am doing 2154 revs in 4th (with my 1.21 TB). From Ashcroft calculator I should be doing 2724 in 4th or 2126 in 5th (if I would still have a 1.41 TB). So my 2154 revs in 4th are 98.7% close to theoretical 2126 in 5th which I would guess it's good enough. So not sure the problem is here. (If anyone needs more details about that calculation let me know and I will be happy to give more details) Well, back to digging. Not yet ready to give up. /Florin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Mine worked in 4th (before fitting the Speedoealer) so yours should too. I'll try to find the time tomorrow to connect my Nanocom and see if I have the same settings you report above. I can't help coming back to checking the wiring as the three vehicles I've done or made looms for all worked immeditely.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
florin Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 (edited) Hi Neil, It would be a huge help if you could confirm your Nanocom settings! Thank you! Here is the actual setup I did: I was quite confident about the whirring because the Nanocom did display my actions (and thus confirming them). For instance: when I turn on the CC Master switch (on my diagram) the Nanocom displays Cruise control: ON. When I press the buttons on the Window winder switch, again, the Nanocom does display the Set or Resume: ON However, I will listen to people that actually made it work! So I will go and check all the cables again. Again, thank you for the help! /Florin Edited June 28, 2015 by V8 Freak Image amend requested by OP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 It sounds like you have everything right !! Really weird ! I know it shouldn't matter, but have you tried with LED removed? My screen shots taken below.... Brake & Clutch reading with pedals at rest Neither set or sesume activated... Brake & Clutch both depressed Set button depressed Resume button depressed Showing cruise enabled when power applied.... Over to you..... Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
florin Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Hi Neil, Thank you for taking the trouble to do the screen shots. It's a big help. At least I know I was on the right track about the Brake Switch 2. I should probably tell the guys back at Nanocom to correct the documentation. Just a very small comment on your last screen shot: I think on that screen the Cruise Control: Enabled is not dependent on the 12V at pin 15 but rather it's a feature of the ECU (if you have CC activated or not in the software). The screen that will change when the 12V is applied at pin 15 is the first one: Cruise Control: ON. I did have an initial setup without the LED. I will continue to test and if I become any wiser I will post back here the findings. Again, thank you for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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