Troll Hunter Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 It seems my landy troubles are never ending! Having finally completed rebuilding the front hubs I filled both ball joints and the diff with oil last thing yesterday evening. This morning I go out to the shop and find a small pool of clean oil under the diff. Yes, both plugs were fitted and tight. Detailed examination revealed a cracked weld on the front of the diff casing between the front plate and the section that is above and below the diff, joining the two axle tubes. So, what are my repair options? Getting a replacement axle is out of the question, considering my location. Is this likely to become catastrophic if not attended to? I'm about to set out on a cross-Canada road trip of about 15,000km and a tow home from midway would not be appreciated by SWMBO! Could it be re-welded without deforming the case? Would this be the best option? If so, apart from draining the diff case, what other preps and precautions should be taken? Could the leak be fixed with something like JB Weld? Many thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 That can be repaired properly with the welder without much trouble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 reckon that could be welded up quite successfully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 What's wrong with a weld ... Mig? Smoke like hell though, but that's what I would do... Only thing that would concern me is risk if explosion... Hence I'd drain it and remove the swivels at the flanges Reason being is welding will exceed the flammability temp of the oil, and you don't want to weld it (in my unknowlegable personal opinion) as a sealed vessel.. Wouldn't remove the diff Squirt of a co2 fire extinguisher if required down the axle tube Never done it myself, but that's the way I'd approach it Then reassemble wash degrease and paint I'd wait for the consensus of opinion though Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 Drain the oil, remove the vent plug on top of the axle shaft to improve internal ventilation of the casing and a good welder wont have any trouble either MIG or TIG welding it up the cracked weld, personally I would TIG it as TIG welding produces far less heat, but that said MIG welding is more popular with professional welders, distortion wont be a problem with either of these welding methods. If I was welding it up I would drill a small 3mm hole in the center of the diff housing to drain off the small amount of residual oil that will remain due to the slightly higher location of the drain plug, welding this hole up after the crack was repaired would be easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 I would dispute that TIG produces less heat than MIG, in fact I would say that it's quite the opposite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Probably a typo, mig throws down less heat. I love TIG, but you have to throw in some pre-heat to start a weld pool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 It doesn't matter what process you use there aslong as the metal and crack are free from oil. It's a cracked diff pan not the hull on a nuclear sub. And the point of tig is that you can put as much or as little heat into material as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 degrease it, give it a little bit of a V groove, and lay some mig down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 ... and weld past the end of the crack at both ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Advantage i thought with tig is also less degrease required... But let's be honest it ain't structural... Just leak stopping... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Tig needs more degrease Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Would also be an idea to drill a hole in each end of the crack to prove ting it from continuing. Tig needs to be super clean for a decent weld. To the point where if there is any dust from your grinding disk on the surface it will fizzle and spit at you and leave a big hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 Thank you, everybody, for your advise. I drilled a hole at the lowest point of the diff casing, and I was amazed at the volume of oil that drained out overnight. I ground a groove around the crack, well past the visible ends of the crack, and MIG welded it. So far, no problems, but I don't expect any since the diff is not under pressure. Another job successfully completed, thanks to the input from the Forum. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.