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snapped rocker shaft bolt


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Checked my push rods today and in putting the rocker shaft back in the dowel didnt quite like up and ended up crushed but the worse thing is that i have snapped the very back (bulkhead end) bolt that goes through the rocker shaft to secure it to the head, does anyone have any surgestions on how to get it out? Its snapped quite in there so gripping it with thin mole grips to twist it is out

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Hi I found a left hand drill bit works great for removing broken bolt. drill a pilot hole first and then get your left hand drill bit. make sure your drill is in reverse and make sure you don't drill too far...

Thierry

I did the same thing and the left hand drill bit worked a treat for me as well.

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Drill a small hole and unless you cross threaded it tap an allen key or torx bit into the hole and should unwind by hand as there will be no tension on the bolt

!Caution!, only do this if you know the bolt is pretty loose... I did this with a torx driver and then snapped the head off the torx bit in the new hole I'd just drilled in the broke bolt... not a happy state of affairs I can assure you...

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Maverick's caution is worthy. Thin bolts need thin allen keys or ezy-outs to do this and they are very brittle. They are very hard steel, and make drilling the bolt remnant out extremely difficult. I use a punch or chisel to start the bolt out, driving at a tangent.

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Very similar to this I noticed over the last few months a light tapping noise coming from the top of the engine. I readjusted the valves No end of times but just got worse until it was awful, clattering and banging metal clanking noise pretty loud. It was louder than the turbo and normal peace of the 300tdi!!!! It took forever to work it out but finally I took the valve cover off last week and found the most rear nut on the stud was loose, not even hand tight!!!! I thought it weird but tightened it down but it didn't get properly tight and then realised the stud was getting higher!!!! It had somehow stripped the thread in the head!!!! I helicoil'd it and put it back together and it's now back to normal. 350 miles on and it's still all good and driving spot on. Not sure why it happened but time will tell how good my repair is and wether it was a singular problem or something else causing it.

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If Ez Out / LH Drill Bit / Alan Key fail - I've previously succeeded by machining a tube which fits down the hole / sits neatly on top of the bolt then fill the middle of the tube with weld. After it's cooled, weld a nut to the end of the now solid tube.

It's a bit extreme - but it works on very stuck bolts. It even works if the end of the bolt is deep inside the counter-bore.

Si

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I might need to do this, I've a pair of MOD door tops to go on the 109, one of which has a very seized sheered off stud, sheered deep inside the alloy. Should be a fun little job done winters day.

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Hi guys, just updating, after prying the mangled dowel out i was able to painfully slowly turn the bokt out with some needle nose pliers , i could only get a replacement bolt direct from land rover (at £7.40!!!) Also the other annoyance was the dowels only came in bags of ten at 3.36 per dowel anyway its all back together now and torqued down and the tapping has dissapeared ( was actually an extreamly starved injector pump due to a solidly blocked filter)

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