****inthemud Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Hi All, Right, so I've just replaced my old 35 x 12.50 x 15 BFG muds with Maxis Creepy Crawlers in the same dimensions. However I'm not as happy with the profile of the Creepys on the 8 inch rims that I'm using. Ive always liked the tight fit with 12.5's on an 8inch rim previously but the the Creepys have a much squarer profile. Im not a huge fan of wide 10" rims so I thought 9" would be perfect but I can't seem to find a 15x 9 inch rim anywhere. As it happens I am running spacers for the 8's that I have and would also love to get rid of those with 30mm more offset. Im not really interested in spending a fortune on custom rims for this truck - now I'm thinking perhaps I should just put up with the fat look of 10's - but i really don't want to extend the arches AGAIN! If anyone can point me in the right direction of a deep offset 15 x 9 steel rim I would be eternally grateful!! cheers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
****inthemud Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 Meant to say - if the moderators think this may receive a better response in another category please can it be moved? THANKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Not sure I've ever come across a 9" wide wheel. Have you thought about having a set banded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
****inthemud Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 Not sure I've ever come across a 9" wide wheel. Have you thought about having a set banded? I have thought about it but I have some concerns over the strength of the rim whilst off road. Also these were very very hard to balance and I think banded rims may make that harder. However I don't have any experience of banded rims.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Have a look for Daan's series 3. That's running banded standard steels and he seriously bent the edge of one wheel hitting a tree without any signs of the banding failing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 You could get the rim balanced properly after banding, that way you would be sure. Though I suspect the reason you needed a lot of balancing weights was due to the use of off road tyres, not bad wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Guess it depends how legal you want to be. Although I suspect running a 12.50 tyre on a 8j rim not supported by the tyre maker is enough anyhow. Not really sure how a 10J rim is going to require you to need different arches, it's not going to make the tread section much wide, just the profile of the sidewall. But it all depends what offset you will be running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 You may find moving to a 10" rim moves the tyre outboard enough to negate the need for spacers without a major increase in offset. Are you using weights or balance beads? If the tyres are particularly bad try spinning them 180* on the rim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
****inthemud Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 You could get the rim balanced properly after banding, that way you would be sure. Though I suspect the reason you needed a lot of balancing weights was due to the use of off road tyres, not bad wheels The current rims have deformed around the back of the stud holes - hence the reason I think they sit poorly on the hubs. I would have thought brand new maxis would balance up OK, they're not my first set 35's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
****inthemud Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 Guess it depends how legal you want to be. Although I suspect running a 12.50 tyre on a 8j rim not supported by the tyre maker is enough anyhow. Not really sure how a 10J rim is going to require you to need different arches, it's not going to make the tread section much wide, just the profile of the sidewall. But it all depends what offset you will be running. manufacturer states 8.5 - 11inches. In theory an 8j is 8.5 from lip to lip - I guess this is what they mean as 8.5 would be a very weird minimum size. I ran My previous 35's on 8j's no problem and not really an uncommon practise. Nearly every 10J on a defender will require deep arches if you want to stay legal! - but i don't want to get started on that topic as I have covered it with others somewhere else on here. For the record though I will be running a -30et offset to eliminate my spacers and retain a decent turning circle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
****inthemud Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 At moment, with the price of certain wheels out there and not wanting some nasty alloy shinys, I think I am going to go down the challenger 5 spoke (mach 5 pattern) route. I just can't argue with that money and the last set I saw looked pretty decent despite previous concerns about the prettiness of the welds. None the less - SOMEONE NEEDS TO START MAKING A 9J RIM IF YOU ARE LISTENING OUT THERE!!!! I'll have to find some piccys to show my quandry to show you guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 manufacturer states 8.5 - 11inches. In theory an 8j is 8.5 from lip to lip - I guess this is what they mean as 8.5 would be a very weird minimum size. I ran My previous 35's on 8j's no problem and not really an uncommon practise. Nearly every 10J on a defender will require deep arches if you want to stay legal! - but i don't want to get started on that topic as I have covered it with others somewhere else on here. For the record though I will be running a -30et offset to eliminate my spacers and retain a decent turning circle. I suspect they word it quite accurately. An 8.5" rim is not an 8" rim. Not matter how you try and twist it. Personally I'm perfectly fine with running a 12.50 tyre on an 8" rim. But you can't ignore the fact it is outside the tyre makers published and endorsed guidelines. So I was merely pointing out, that should you be in an accident and someone notices this, then it could 'potentially' throw a spanner in the works. That said, I think there is only so much to gain by sticking with an 8" rim vs 10" in this situation. As a rule you want the wheels out for better steering lock. But the rim width won't be the bit that restricts this, it'll be the tyre hitting the radius arm. A 10" rim also isn't going to make the tread noticeably wider either. It'll just change the shape of the sidewall. And it's the tread that needs to remain in the body. 16x8 with -30ET 16x10 with -32ET The tyre tread is in the same place, so arches would be the same for both. And as the tyre will be the thing limiting the lock and on the edge of the tyre, I suspect your steering lock would be largely unchanged too. This is running 15x10 rims. They are Simex 33.11.50R15 tyres, that measure almost 34" tall. So maybe not quite as big as your tyres. Rims are maybe a little oddball, they have an ET of +12.7, so a bigger dish on the back than the front. However it is also running some 30mm spacers, which gives the rim an equivalence of ET-17.3 This gives it good steering lock still and the tyres are 'just' inside the aches. If you are really wanting a 9" rim, then I think you'll have to go to a 17" tyre. In the USA 17" rims are the new 15's. You can get Module and D-Mod Land Rover rims in 17x9 either with an -25 or -32ET. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
****inthemud Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 Perhaps I should have mentioned that I don't think I have the -30ET backspacing on my current 8inch rims hence the spacers. Therefore the 10's in this case would negate the need for the spacers which I can only see as a good thing. If I had the money I would go to someone like A.R.T and have them made but I think having one set made for my other truck is enough (still saving up!) and I think these particular tyres will sit safer on the tarmac and possibly the slippy stuff with a flatter profile. I will report back as to how they balance up compared to the current mods which where a nightmare. Previously they didn't balance up too badly on the BFG's but they had a totally different shape on that size rim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
****inthemud Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 p.s: the 17's will come when I get the 37's!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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