tuko

@FridgeFreezer Thanks for the offer but for the time being I'm going to limit me to the options that I have been researching locally, as a matter of fact I have already ordered the UP5.0 vacuum pump from the Dodge Ram. Todd.

The other option that was discussed earlier still has my interest to which I've read more about. The mechanical vacuum pump delete replacing it with an electric vacuum pump. The favorite replacement unit seems to be the UP28 but I have read the UP30 and the UP5.0 are better pumps from Bosch. The above image is the UP5.0 from a Dodge Ram. With an adjustable vacuum pressure switch and an one way valve, this is another viable option with the present booster. All are interesting and viable options that I may consider in the future for the Defender after I've converted the front brakes to ventilated discs. Todd.

@FridgeFreezer Yes, the image is the iBooster ( first gen) from a Tesla x. Todd.

Both you and Tobias have made reference to the iBooster. To be honest I didn't look into it till this evening and an interesting topic to say the least. Clearly available here, being a complete package it eliminates a lot of head scratching other than the electrics. I like the idea of getting rid of the leaky mechanical pump therefore I'll do some home work on this subject. Maybe a future project on the Defender. 🤔 Todd.

Guys, I can't say thank you enough. The clear choice by many is EBC green stuff. To my surprise I can buy them off the shelf locally at a good price. ( DP6708 and DP61033 ) Todd.

Reviving an old post I started a while back. During the past few months I've compiled a list of part numbers that will be replacing the exciting front brakes on the Defender. From the last time writing the TRV brake master cylinder has been on a shelf waiting while the Defender has been and still is in winter storage. The Brembo reman. brake calipers arrived friday, the parts on the third shipment are the drilled/grooved vented front discs and stainless steel brake lines which are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. The last bit of parts that I need are the brake pads and this is where I'm unsure what to order, therefore the questions now. Bear in mind my driving and the roads that I travel here in the nordic region and with the Defender hoovering around the 3000kg all the time, I'm thinking that a brake pad with a higher clamping efficiency and higher operating temperature would suit me better but the problem that I've ran into so far is it's a jungle to find any detailed information from the manufacturers ie. Mintex or Brembo. I have been favoring Brembo parts for the Defender but I was wondering about "yellow stuff" brake pads for the Defender as they do have information that does show that they meet my requirements. I also saw that Lof offers pads with the requirements that I'm out for but wondering if they are just a rebrand of a known product or specifically made to his specifications ? OR is there another brand name that I should look at while I'm trying to figure this out. Those of you who have a heavier Defender, tow and have over your vehicles lifetime did an upgrade to your brakes, what is your preferred brake pads that have served you well or excided your expectations? Based on your tips/suggestions/recommendations I'll make up my mind and place the final order. Thanks, Todd.

Lawrence, As you wrote the 110 is primarily used for road, so in my opinion I can't see why you can't use the trayback rear axle. The later years LR did change to Rover type rear axle on the 110. Your axle with the upgrades should be well up to the job. There is a post in this section of the rear axle swap I did on my 110, but I used a Salisbury axle that was disc brake. With that said, I did and still have in reserve a disco 300tdi rear axle with a locker if I decide to go further with the 110. Todd.

Echoing the above comments, original springs will give the best results. If a lift or a slight lift is wanted then spacers is the best solution. I was using Terrafirma gas shocks but wasn't really impressed with them therefore changed to Koni's on the Defender and they made a real difference comfort wise.

exactly that, sometimes they are rusted so a drop of WD40 will get it moving.

thank you!

In December i helped a friend with installing a glow plug relay setup into his Defender which was converted to a 200TDI in Holland about 10 years ago. When the motor conversion was done, they simply had the glow plugs wired through the ignition when in the on position. So fast forward to today we wired it like a 300tdi as that is where all the parts came from and I'm most familiar with. The setup works fine with the new glow plugs. The question that I have for anyone who may know, as I can't answer the question and honestly don't think it's anything to worry about, but Per has been checking the power usage when he turns the keys and wondered why and if it affects anything that the glow plug relay is still activated for approx 10 sec after the engine is started. The Defender starts better with the glow plug relay setup and is properly wired according to the so many diagrams here and on the interweb but Per is questioning why there is still power at the relay for a few sec's after startup? Like I said I can't answer the question but on the other hand I don't see it as any problem, is there anyone that could expand on this question or provide confirmation that it's nothing to over think or worry about? Thanks in advance, Todd.

It sucks that the sun goes down the same time I finish work, finally today I was out with the series to fix the wipers and shorting that I have been having with them. Replaced the wiper motor, replaced the switch with the universal one I have from eBay. Using the above diagram I wired in a 5 pin relay and everything works including "park". The wipers now seem to have a bit more life in them compared to the old ones and if I can say that with a 1980 Series. Also, it starts far more better than previously. Todd.

If my military light switch dies I could use this as it's replacement. As a matter of fact it would be alright in the series to. Thanks FF.

I too have the Dometic CFX35 and also can confirm that it's draws no more than 3.5Amps. With the insulated cover, it does run half as much but I've never ran into any issues with a dead battery.

I some years ago changed over to a separate momentum button for the washer function but retained the original switch. Don't remember why. As for the wiper motor, the rubber plug for the wires into the motor itself, is melted but externally there no damage to the wires. I've seen on YouTube using a 5 pin relay and some fancy wiring that the universal wiper switch can park, so that is a possibility.