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  1. 12 likes
    Hi gents, well I've been offline for quite some time because I've been focussed on a new series I was hinting about on and off for ages. It's finally live after a year of earnest work. Hope it's appropriate to post it and hope you like it...\ George
  2. 9 likes
    I agree with the forum charter and I do not believe there should be an OT section - and even try to abide by it most of the time. However, most of my closest friends are members and many of them I met through the forum. It's a great community of like minded people - for whom I care a great deal. There has always been an unwritten rule that some latitude will be given to people who make a decent contribution to the forum - and Mr Rattler qualifies in my book! I don't think I've met him, but I've followed his exploits and care about him and the rest of his life too - and the same goes for the rest of you too. Yes, it's primarily a Technical Forum - but it's the people that make it great. There is space for the odd thread about mental health, pets and yes, even Waxoiling cats! These are the things that turn words on a page into real people. Si
  3. 4 likes
    Ok, So there is a thread on U/J quality in the international forum were people are mentioning short lives of their U/J, and questioning their quality. Of course, a genuine U/J generally lives longer than a cheap replacement. But In my experience, there is more to it. Mainly maintenance; how often do you grease your U/Js? And the next question is than how is it done. Before you all think I teaching you to suck eggs I will expand on this a bit more: Problem I found is that one grease nipple is serving 4 bearings. In reality, this means that the grease tend to find the route with the least resistance. This usually means you are effectively greasing 1 or 2 bearings only. And what about the others? They are dry as a bone and fall apart. To combat this, I thought about it, and came up with a method that I will show you here. It is rather involved, but I have not changed a U/J in 10 years. Here we go: First off, grease as you would normally. You can see which bearing gets grease, as it pours past the seal: The ones that dont get any grease need feeding as well. You can do this by pressing the bearing which has already been greased against the crosspiece like so: This now should stop the flow of grease to the already greased bearing, and find the next passage with the lowest resistance. If you still have other bearings that have no grease coming out, you can add a G-clamp with a nut, to press 2 opposed bearing cups against the cross piece. keep repeating this process until all bearing cups have grease coming out. This process is rather fiddly, but as mentioned, since I started doing it this way, I have had no failures. I have done this with the props on the car and using 2 opposed G-clamps. Also, the blue grease is better in my experience, as it does not go solid like the yellow stuff (which I am using here, unfortunately). Hope that helps, and have fun greasing these things! Daan
  4. 4 likes
    OK hands up, 'twas I. And it really isn't all Mikes fault, probably only 75%. The other 75% is fridges fault, and any left over is just down to poor impulse control on my part. Not sure a build thread will be that interesting, I spent the whole day in the workshop, mostly standing looking from various angles and muttering 'WTF have I done?'. First job is to clear enough space in the shed to work on it (Anyone interested in a q plate 88" hybrid rolling chassis before I throw it out into the rain?)
  5. 4 likes
    Yeah I have posted similar threads on Land Rover uk forums in their ( Public discussion forum ) and on Landyzone in their ( Anything goes forum ) as most members on the two forums knew that I had a dog and I've not had any problems with the same threads I have posted on them
  6. 4 likes
    I see you share the same username as the ebay account... so surely you already know if its a good vehicle or not, you tell us! also... WTF are those side step/tree sliders??!?!
  7. 3 likes
    A few more hours in the garage today and I now have a fridge drop slide to install in the back of the hybrid. The handle is folding as you can see in the images, I can have it on top of the fridge when it's in the up position of I can leave it fully extended as I have plenty of clearance to the rear door. Whats left to do now is some final sanding, trimming, a latched welding some wheres on the front to lock it in place when driving then a coat of paint. In the mean time here is a small video of my DIY fridge drop slide in action, which I'm very pleased with, enjoy.
  8. 3 likes
    The washer bottle is similar to the later defender under wing bottle but I got it at Sodbury years ago. However it was undrilled but had the recess for the headlight washers pump. So I've fitted the headlight washers pump off a disco just need to alter the wiring to run the pump with the screenwash. It is really nice to be working on it again but now I just want to get it on the road now. Mike
  9. 3 likes
    Well on with putting Richards chassis onto my sons 1997 110 and thought you may like to see what it was like under the cross member !! I have rechassised both my older 200 tdi's but they weren't tis bad at that point. New chassis painted and ready for engine etc
  10. 3 likes
    Now show us the picture of all those empty tins squished up. I want to see how thin you got them without breaking the vice.
  11. 3 likes
  12. 3 likes
    I'm going to use a word to describe this, that I never use - because very little really is. Awesome! Si
  13. 3 likes
    This is so wrong it's very nearly right: https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/6062771422.html
  14. 2 likes
    Very nice. Quality stands out, even in a photograph. I'm liking the homage to retro in the KC lighting covers. I do like a jeep based buggy. the lines work better For me the early days of challenge were more interesting. I did like the 'up to the arm pit sin mud' stuff. I liked the minimalist prep on the vehicles, the enormous amount of skill and effort to negotiate what would now be seen as an event car park. The lack of serious injuries despite using more dangerous kit - simply because common sense was more available from all sides. But I came in from RTV; the ultimate in driving skill and minimalism As for Ultra - to me the skill is in building the machine so it is fast and survives. I did that with comp safari for years. I was single and well paid then. If I still was, then I'd still do it. It's not a spectators sport either. I don't see the point in not having spectators - they are where the big money is
  15. 2 likes
    Or in other words, "it's not just what happens, it's what you do about it that counts," something many companies have trouble understanding.
  16. 2 likes
    or move to Botswana where you leave your keys in the ignition so you don't loose them.
  17. 2 likes
    I just noticed that I hadn't updated this thread. I actually fixed this problem some months ago. It turned out the post-cat O2 sensor was toast. After dabbling with a cheap replacement from Euro Car parts that didn't work out of the box (no the box wasn't blue ) I ended up with a Bosch item that looked identical to the original and worked perfectly. I then reset the logged faults using the reader and phone app. So, £5 for a code reader, £70 odd for the sensor (massively discounted as they had sold me a dud to begin with) and I'm all sorted. I also purchased the paid for version of phone app (only a couple of quid) as I believe it's worth recognising the work of the developers of a good product that has saved me time and money. Link to the app here in case anyone else is interested https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/store/p/car-scanner-pro/9nblggh5rv45
  18. 2 likes
    Slowly making progress with the fridge drop slide, got a cold from the kids, back to work and the boss working night shifts, only a hour here and there the past few days but it's nearly done. One mistake I made was the securing pin, I was securing two moving parts together.....LOL Now that I see what I did wrong I will weld 2 tabs tomorrow that will secure the fridge tray to the platform in the landy. This short video I made myself, one hand with the cell phone and the other running the drop slide through it's paces which was secure and easy enough to do with just one hand. Later in the week I'll tear it all down again (must be the 20th time so far) to give it a final coat of paint. In a nutshell, that's it, my DIY fridge drop slide is done. Todd.
  19. 2 likes
    Success !! Off for a test drive now. I looked over white90's post about replacing the fuel filter. Opened up the air bleed nipple and pumped with the lift pump until fuel came out and did it back up. One turn and Doug fired up. Been running for 10 mins now with no drip. I'll go for a spin and see how it is. :-)
  20. 2 likes
    I suspect that o ring has become flattened after 30 years or so of service, time to change it. Mo
  21. 2 likes
    I followed a D5 for a while on the M5 yesterday - first time I'd seen the back end of one. On the plus side it doesn't look exactly the same as all the other models. On the minus side, that's only because it's incredibly ill proportioned and an incoherent mess - it has rather more of the look of a far eastern budget brand (although some of those have upped their game well beyond this level now) than a premium product. And I say that as someone who actually likes the current Land Rover "look" - just wishes they had more than one idea.
  22. 2 likes
    I'm nervous about buying anything "new" from Gigglepin, they don't exactly have a good track record when it comes to supporting their products and "known" points of failure. Their customers basically end up paying for their R. and D. When you phone them up and say "x has just snapped in half" the normal response is something like "oh yes, that's a known issue with the early ones, we can sell you an improved one for £x * 2". You don't even get the replacement at cost price even though they've acknowledged it was a faulty part by design or manufacture. They're obviously feeling the pinch a bit though with Redwinch and, from the consumer's point of view, having Redwinch and Gigglepin going head to head to compete against each other is always going to improve innovation and price ! Sadly both are out of my "justifiable costs" budget at the moment but Redwinch is where my money would go if I was looking for a new winch.
  23. 2 likes
    Yes mo, but you don't have fists of ham either
  24. 2 likes
    This is a view of the turbocharger to intercooler hose, very hard to see any defect from the outside. The inside was completely blocked. Worth checking if you have a 300TDI
  25. 2 likes
    Thanks guys, I went for KAM ones in the end as they seem to be a good all rounder with the o ring. Would love the Ashcroft flanges as the quality is second to none but can't justify £108 a corner when I got the KAM ones for £150 for all 4. The 10 bolt design is also intreaguing.... thanks for the heads heads up on the raptor flanges, that would have made me very angry very quickly! And im a firm believer of buy cheap buy twice but I think KAM have a fairly decent reputation?
  26. 2 likes
    Marker pen + masking tape = label on box, easy! Also, how do you use a grinder and NOT get the workshop covered in dust?
  27. 2 likes
    And some pic's with the bonnet and bulkhead removed and the rot on the bulkhead aswell
  28. 2 likes
    I completely agree with the other posters, though I think its worth mentioning that in theory the Grease should make your CV's slower wearing, due to the Molybdenum in there. Though of course if theres water in there it won't be any good
  29. 2 likes
    oil, remove the seal, and your wheel bearings will live forever. Daan
  30. 2 likes
    If it helps, I'll take 2% fault for posting the link on here originally. I'm sure you would have found it anyway, so more of a token gesture
  31. 2 likes
    Idle curiosity got the better of me recently and as there is still no sign of a datasheet for the main processor in the TD5 speedo (the CDVN2117) I thought I'd take a closer look at it. If nothing else it is a pretty picture, here's a link to download the picture as it's far to big to post on the forum, try zooming in a bit https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6XKpDGw3BjiTG9EZkktcF9SSmc It's really only for geeks tbh. Looks like it may contain some masked rom so perhaps it's possible to extract some data.
  32. 2 likes
    I wrote this for another forum, I thought it might be useful here too. The hazard switch and indicators often cause problems in defenders, most commonly the indicators stop working, but the fault is actually with the hazard light switch. This post aims to explain how the hazard switch works, why it's malfunction stops the indicators working, and how to test for and diagnose the fault. To get to the back of the hazard switch, remove the two screws and pull the switch panel out. you'll then see this. The multi plug has 7 wires going into it, there's also the Black (red trace) and Black wires, which are connected directly to the switch body. these are for the indicator in the switch itself. Black(red) - indicator supply Black - earth Remove the multiplug, you will then see the two sets of pins, x3 and x4, top and bottom (as viewed in the photo, not as mounted in the dash). The top set are concerned with powering the flasher unit, the bottom set dictate what the flasher unit actually lights. This picture shows the 4 wires that connect to the bottom set of pins And this picture shows the 3 wires that connect to the top To make things easier to see, here is a schematic of the switch. With the Hazard switch in the 'off' position 'Suppy to flasher' is connected to 'Light switch supply' - which comes on with the second click of the ignition switch With the Hazard switch in the 'on' position 'Suppy to flasher' is connected to 'Permanent Supply' - 12vDC *Flash* is connected to 'Left Indicators', 'Right Indicators', and the 'Switch tell-tale' What this means is, if the switch is faulty, the flasher unit doesn't get a power supply, so it can't flash the indicators via the indicator switch on the column. You can test the switch using a multimeter (continuity or resistance), or test lamp. You can also test the vehicle wiring as follows. You will need a fused piece of wire (or test lamp), you don't want to risk a dead short if you get it wrong. This is what i made to test the wiring, the lowest value fuse i had was 5A. If you link 'permanent supply' (purple) to 'Left indicators' or 'Right indicators' the indicators on that side should light, constantly though, not flashing. this proves the bulb wiring is ok and you have supply to the loom plug. If you link 'permanent supply' (purple) to 'supply to flasher' (light geen), the indicator stalk switch should work the indicators as normal (flashing). The indicator switch is connecting *flash* to 'Left Indicator' or 'Right Indicator' - the wiring is duplicated at the stalk switch. If you want to make a seperate link wire you can replicate the stalk switch action at the loom plug as well. You can repeat the two tests above, using 'Light switch supply' instead of 'permanent supply', the ignition switch will need to be on the second click. 'Switch tell-tale' is the live supply to the bulb in the switch housing, it is grounded by the seperate black wire connected to the switch body.
  33. 2 likes
    That was a very entertaining watch, seemed very well shot and great subject matter, I will be watching future episodes and I'll probably send the link to friends too. Better than a lot of stuff I've seen on broadcast TV.
  34. 2 likes
    Flasher relay ? When I've had problems of this nature in the past I have replaced the cheapest bits first, so probably flasher relay, hazard switch and then indicator switch. Burning can indicate high resistance at connectors so make sure your connectors are clean and check your wiring for intermittent shorts through chafing or cuts. Change that fuse if you haven't already in case it's faulty, I've had a big one melt before and not blow and clean the connections of the holder. My money would probably be on the flasher relay if you've changed the switch several times. Hopefully there may be some pointers for you too Alan. HTH Mo
  35. 2 likes
    A friend went to buy a fester and wanted the cheapest model they did. Salesman was trying to sell her a different model with colour coded mirrors, alloy wheels and various other bits of jewellery. He was a bit crushed when she asked him how much better rear view the colour coded mirrors gave her and was not steel also an alloy? But it has a sunroof madam (and how farking ridiculous is a moon roof?) to which her response was why would I want a car with a hole in the roof?. In the end she got the one with all the added bits because "nobody asks for the base model madam and it will be months before we can get one" but she got it for the base model price. On the subject of breakdowns, A friend was workshop manager at a LR dealership. They had a RR sport which would always go into limp home mode when presented with a hill. They tried all sorts to reproduce the fault (owner was going on his hols with caravan attached etc) In the end they gave him a demo car and said leave it with us while you go on holiday we will have a good look at it. couldn't get it to replicate the fault. Bloke comes back off hols, picks up his car, attaches caravan, he is back within 10 minutes same fault. In the end Land Rover said give him another car and send that one back to the factory we will sort it out. Dealer did as requested and even the factory could not find the problem. Doesn't bode well for the future.
  36. 2 likes
    Hmmm. I must need a firmware upgrade as I was in the land rover dealer on Monday having my isuzu serviced and couldn't help but think how awful the d5 looked front and back compared to the d4 outside that was in for its 3rd set of wheel bearings... but I must be wrong as that chaps styled it and he says it's right :/
  37. 2 likes
    New cars are the property of the finance company, not the consumer That aside, I think he is talking intellectual property, not anything physical. Must be an American.
  38. 2 likes
    Isn't that a bit racist? Dare I ask what the poor fella had done to you?
  39. 2 likes
    I have a 12 year old T5 that I'm converting into a camper van. I've never been a fan of VW or had any real interest in them but we wanted a camper van and the T5 is the best option for that size although, as a result, they also keep their value which is both a good and bad thing. I have to say though that, especially when compared with the Land Rovers of a similar age, the VW is really well put together and of a much higher quality which for a commercial van should be a surprise you'd have thought ! I'll be honest, I\d expected a van to be pretty "agricultural", built to suit a purpose rather than put together with any real attention to detail. When I'm working underneath it there's not a sign of rust, despite it spending the last 5 years of it's life in Blackpool. When you pull off a protective cover on the underside you find factory paintwork, unblemished and coated with some form of protective wax coating. The wiring and connectors are completely untouched by corrosion, I can pull off a rear tail light unit and, despite it being completely external to the vehicle, the connector and the light unit are corrosion free. When I stripped the interior I didn't know what to expect under the sheets of ply and flooring, expecting to find areas of rusted floor where water had seeped in and pooled with no escape. What I actually found was a body and interior that was pretty much just as it left the factory, not a rust spot or blemish in site. It's not perfect but when comparing it with other 12 year old and newer vehicles I've had with a Land Rover badge on it it's so much better it's been a real eye opener to the difference that attention to detail and, perhaps better workmanship, can make to the longevity of a vehicle. They have their issues and just like our beloved green oval vehicles, if you read the vehicle specific forums and the horror stories that abound there are a number that are common problems. Some of which they share with Land Rover vehicles... 5 cylinder turbo diesel, highly tuned, has a propensity to warp exhaust manifolds especially when remapped, sound familiar at all ??? The VVT is nice though, surprised more people haven't tried to fit them to Defender TD5s. I've said before (before I owned a VW) that VW were unfairly targeted over the emissions and pointed out that Land Rover and probably every manufacturer had been doing similar tricks for years, it's what good engineers do when you set an unrealistic test as a required target for a specific set of circumstances. You aim to pass the test not necessarily meet the goal behind the test. Hell, even our school system is obsessed with that these days, teaching kids to pass a specific test whilst not necessarily teaching them anything outside passing a test.
  40. 2 likes
    This is the method used to replace the timing belt on a rather nice ex-military 90. Parts needed to do this job properly are timing belt (Dayco), tensioner, water pump gasket, timing cover gasket, crankshaft front oil seal, and timing cover dust seal. These engines are real workhorses, and seem to go on forever. Ruined by Land Rover, when they then fitted a turbo in the hope of a cheap upgrade. This engine had been stood for a year, but still starts on the button and pulls like a train. The noticeable thibg about this engine when you open the bonnet is the huge cowling that takes up 1/3 of the room. The cowling is held to the radiator by these 4 little screws along the top - flimsy, awkward things they are and wouldn't budge. The big jubilee clip was the next option, and the clever thing about these is that you only need to turn them a few times, and the threaded screw will then flip outwards, and you can then slide plenty of the band through. Detach the lower radiator hose and drain the system. The forward part of the cowling is steel, and is held to the engine in three places, and mounted on small vibration rubbers. Once the three nuts are removed, the cowling can be flattened and removed from between the radiator and fan. The viscous fan is left hand thread, so while the fan belt is holding the pulley for you, undo the 32mm nut behind the fan with a water pump spanner - clockwise. Also slacken the 4 x 13mm bolts that hold the pulley to the water pump body. Looks like somebody didn't do a very good job! Slacken the alternator, and oush it towards the engine and remove the fan belt, water pump pulley, and the belt tensioner - note the spacer tube on the adjuster bolt. These three bolts are very prone to snapping - they pass through the water pump, timing case, and into the engine block. They rust and seize solid, and it's almost impossible to stop one from shearing off if it's stuck in the thread through corrosion. Judging by the looks of this - someone has had problems in the past. One bolt (at the top) is the correct 13mm M8, the right hand lower is 17mm M10, and the left hand is 14mm M10. The pump body was threaded as well as the timing case, so it look like someone drilled and tapped the whole lot without taking the pump off first. There were no leaks, so I supposed its good enough. Right swine to take the pump off though. The gasket is in there somewhere - buried in a whole load of gasket goo. Crank bolt next - 42mm on this one - later bolts were smaller. Easiest, but dangerous way to undo the bolt is with the assistance of the starter motor. 41mm impact socket on a breaker bar - make sure it's a good fit on the crank bolt. The end of the breaker bar goes under the chassis on the drivers side (turn the crank until the bar is snug against the underside of the chassis rail. Next, unplug the fuel cut off switch wire - the engine musn't start, and removal of the wire will prevent that from happeneing. The idea is to crank the engine on the starter a few turns to undo the bolt. Close the bonnet down, and then briefly flick the starter switch - the energy of the starter will 'crack' the thread, and the bolt will them come undone. With any luck the crank pulley will then slide off. Sometimes these are stuck pretty solid, and a puller is then needed. there are supposed to be two bolts either side of the wading plug hole - both are missing. The oil is from the crank seal being loose/worn. Undo all the timing cover bolts and keep them in order (make a bolt tidy from a bit of cardboard) The timing cover will then lift off, revealing the timing belt, tensioner, crank sprocket, cam sprocket, and injector pump sprocket. (dunno why there's two yellow dots on each sprocket) Replace the crank bolt and rotate the engine until all timing marks are in line with thier respective pointers. Left hand sprocket is the injector pump - there is an 'F' mark and a line to indicate that position, and then the next tooth is the timing pip, which you will use when replacing the timing belt, and aligns with a cast arrow in the rear timing case. The cam sprocket has just the one timing mark, and aligns with an arrow that is cast in the timing cover rear face. Finally the crank sprocket, the timing mark on that should be at 12 'o' clock position - once again in line with an arrow cast in the rear of the timing case. The tensioner is held in place by two 13mm nyloc nuts - remove these and the tensioner can be lifted out and discarded, the timing belt will have gone slack with the tension released, discard it. The crank front oil seal was very loose, and the oil in this picture is a result of that. Normally the seal is a tight fit, and requires some careful leverage to remove. Everything needs to be cleaned - the rust staining on the nose of the crank is removed with 1200 wet/dry with oil. The timing belt is fitted, then hook the tensioner behind it and tension correctly. Make sure the timing marks are still where they should be. Rotate the the crankshaft clockwise 2-turns - this equates to one turn of the canshaft and injector pump sprockets. put anew dust seal in the front timing cover. Re-check the timing marks and tensioner, then re-assemble the timing cover and the rest of the components. I used a new gasket on the water pump, but as the bolts were a bit of a mess, I also used RTV sealant. That's it really, make sure the crank bolt is correctly tightened. A couple of things I noticed while doing this job - The air filter was sitting in a pool of oil, the filter was pretty bad, but apart from this, the engine runs very well - no smoke or horrible noises, and it starts on the button. Perhaps it's just overdue for a service. The bowl of the filter housing has some cracks in. Not seen that before - vibration?? sounded and felt ok to me. Les.
  41. 1 like
    Thanks for the advice on this. I stripped it and gave it all a good clean up last night and then reassembled. It is now as smooth as the other diff with the same amount of backlash A few pounds saved! :-)
  42. 1 like
    the protruding centre fits in middle of the pressure cover away from the flywheel face. mine was marked [also a Valeo clutch]
  43. 1 like
    Purely metal? They make the two way tailgate hinges and have a picture of some HD hood sticks on their website. http://www.purelymetal.co.uk/
  44. 1 like
    Thanks for another fascinating episode. As a one time Lotus Elite Type 14 owner, registration 4 CBD, in case it's still around, I found the interview really intersting, and I'm looking forward to more clips in future episodes. Mike
  45. 1 like
    Good job. My front swivel is leaking more than your injector pump today. Going to have to take the BMW today
  46. 1 like
    Would it help to gently try an ordinary nut first. No pipe to get in the way, easier to see/feel if it starts to cross thread.
  47. 1 like
  48. 1 like
    I'm looking forward to finding some LR content for an end feature sometime soon. Episode 3 is in the making, starting to get a rhythm going
  49. 1 like
    Well, I've had the new air bags in a week and not a sign of a sag. They inflated as good as gold, too. Thanks to all the contributors and just to re-iterate what the more knowledgable on here have said: even when you're sure it's not the bags, it's probably the bags.....:)
  50. 1 like
    Great show keep it up. Mike