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Showing most liked content on 04/27/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 likes
    One of my grandads old mates used to make dolls houses and had everything in a single garage which all folded away like transformers so he could get his car in at night. He had a circular saw on a wardrobe sliding track which hinged out from a wall for cutting board. A table on wheels where each side folded up with a different power tool on each side ie router, bandsaw etc. His home made tools were as impressive as his dolls houses. He even had a bathtub sunk in the floor to use as a pit for car servicing
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    Oops - thought I'd changed all that but I clearly didn't go back and set the rest of the groups correctly You should now be able to upload up to 10MB per post (total of all images). If you upload large images they'll be automatically resized to a sensible maximum for web use.
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    Ralph as always many thanks for confirming
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    I'm planning some heater pipe modifications on the 110. The plan is to use some 3/4" x 18 SWG steel tube bent to the required shapes. All T-joins will be TIG welded, but I want to roll beads at the ends. So far I built this bead roller using bits 'n' bobs I had lying around. It formed some very pleasing beads on 15mm copper pipe with great ease, so I thought I would share this in case anyone else has the same need. Hopefully it will also manage 18 swg (1.2mm) steel tube, even if it takes more effort. I've seen the method of modifying a pair of Vise grips with a washer to form a bead, but that design would be a struggle to get inside 3/4" pipe and keep it beefy enough. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves, other than to say the screws are M8 stainless cap heads and the steel plate is 1/2" thick. The internal former is another M8 cap screw with the head precision -hacksawn to 1.5 wide, as I had no lathe available. This was all done with minimal tools to hand: Drill Ø8.2 & Ø6.9 drill bits (Ø8.5 & Ø7 would have been OK too) M8 taps & wrench Round file < Ø8mm Flat file Hacksaw (no I didn't hacksaw the 1/2" plate ) MIG welder (only to tack the nut in place) I'm also keen to see any bead rollers others have made, so feel free to post up your ideas.
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    The fact that they spend most of their lives on the road, not the ramp, makes them look good for a start. Imagine LR offering a seven year warranty!
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    Yes, crammed in to the point of it being difficult to move A tip I picked up from ingenious woodworker and engineer Matthias Wandel (find him on Youtube) is to have as much equipment as possible on wheels. that way it can be nested away when not in use, while the items you want to use can be moved into a usable position. Obviously this won't work for everything; like my lathe, mill and #1 bench are far to big and heavy. My supplementary benches are currently Workmates with large boards clamped to them. They can be dragged about, but this often leads to the contents rolling or rattling off in the process. My longer term plan is to make a couple of mid-sized mobile benches, maybe with fold down extensions too. I shall try to make these matching heights so they can be pushed together for bigger projects.
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    I have a RRC94 and had this problem on my rear near side passenger door. Did as Bowie 69 suggested but no improvement. If you put the window down and lift the knob that goes up and down, can you open the door normally with the outside handle. I understand there is a detent or spring in the latch mechanism that wears or loses tension. Tried lubricating with spray oil (although handbook says do not oil!) Did not help, so had to have a new latch fitted.
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    Many of the rods have adjustable end clips, and one between the handle and latch assembly may need adjusting. It'll be quite obvious how to do it once you remove the door trim (that needs the the blanking discs in the interior grab handle prising out to reveal the two screws in the handle, a screw in the interior latch handle surround, and the vertical lock plunger surround needs to be prised upwards for removal prior to levering the card off the door frame).
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    That picture is also interesting Bowie as it appears that a TD5 R380 output shaft is different to the earlier ones.