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Showing most liked content since 04/19/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 likes
    Ok, So there is a thread on U/J quality in the international forum were people are mentioning short lives of their U/J, and questioning their quality. Of course, a genuine U/J generally lives longer than a cheap replacement. But In my experience, there is more to it. Mainly maintenance; how often do you grease your U/Js? And the next question is than how is it done. Before you all think I teaching you to suck eggs I will expand on this a bit more: Problem I found is that one grease nipple is serving 4 bearings. In reality, this means that the grease tend to find the route with the least resistance. This usually means you are effectively greasing 1 or 2 bearings only. And what about the others? They are dry as a bone and fall apart. To combat this, I thought about it, and came up with a method that I will show you here. It is rather involved, but I have not changed a U/J in 10 years. Here we go: First off, grease as you would normally. You can see which bearing gets grease, as it pours past the seal: The ones that dont get any grease need feeding as well. You can do this by pressing the bearing which has already been greased against the crosspiece like so: This now should stop the flow of grease to the already greased bearing, and find the next passage with the lowest resistance. If you still have other bearings that have no grease coming out, you can add a G-clamp with a nut, to press 2 opposed bearing cups against the cross piece. keep repeating this process until all bearing cups have grease coming out. This process is rather fiddly, but as mentioned, since I started doing it this way, I have had no failures. I have done this with the props on the car and using 2 opposed G-clamps. Also, the blue grease is better in my experience, as it does not go solid like the yellow stuff (which I am using here, unfortunately). Hope that helps, and have fun greasing these things! Daan
  2. 3 likes
    Now show us the picture of all those empty tins squished up. I want to see how thin you got them without breaking the vice.
  3. 2 likes
    Very nice. Quality stands out, even in a photograph. I'm liking the homage to retro in the KC lighting covers. I do like a jeep based buggy. the lines work better For me the early days of challenge were more interesting. I did like the 'up to the arm pit sin mud' stuff. I liked the minimalist prep on the vehicles, the enormous amount of skill and effort to negotiate what would now be seen as an event car park. The lack of serious injuries despite using more dangerous kit - simply because common sense was more available from all sides. But I came in from RTV; the ultimate in driving skill and minimalism As for Ultra - to me the skill is in building the machine so it is fast and survives. I did that with comp safari for years. I was single and well paid then. If I still was, then I'd still do it. It's not a spectators sport either. I don't see the point in not having spectators - they are where the big money is
  4. 2 likes
    Or in other words, "it's not just what happens, it's what you do about it that counts," something many companies have trouble understanding.
  5. 2 likes
    or move to Botswana where you leave your keys in the ignition so you don't loose them.
  6. 2 likes
    I just noticed that I hadn't updated this thread. I actually fixed this problem some months ago. It turned out the post-cat O2 sensor was toast. After dabbling with a cheap replacement from Euro Car parts that didn't work out of the box (no the box wasn't blue ) I ended up with a Bosch item that looked identical to the original and worked perfectly. I then reset the logged faults using the reader and phone app. So, £5 for a code reader, £70 odd for the sensor (massively discounted as they had sold me a dud to begin with) and I'm all sorted. I also purchased the paid for version of phone app (only a couple of quid) as I believe it's worth recognising the work of the developers of a good product that has saved me time and money. Link to the app here in case anyone else is interested https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/store/p/car-scanner-pro/9nblggh5rv45
  7. 2 likes
    Slowly making progress with the fridge drop slide, got a cold from the kids, back to work and the boss working night shifts, only a hour here and there the past few days but it's nearly done. One mistake I made was the securing pin, I was securing two moving parts together.....LOL Now that I see what I did wrong I will weld 2 tabs tomorrow that will secure the fridge tray to the platform in the landy. This short video I made myself, one hand with the cell phone and the other running the drop slide through it's paces which was secure and easy enough to do with just one hand. Later in the week I'll tear it all down again (must be the 20th time so far) to give it a final coat of paint. In a nutshell, that's it, my DIY fridge drop slide is done. Todd.
  8. 2 likes
    I followed a D5 for a while on the M5 yesterday - first time I'd seen the back end of one. On the plus side it doesn't look exactly the same as all the other models. On the minus side, that's only because it's incredibly ill proportioned and an incoherent mess - it has rather more of the look of a far eastern budget brand (although some of those have upped their game well beyond this level now) than a premium product. And I say that as someone who actually likes the current Land Rover "look" - just wishes they had more than one idea.
  9. 2 likes
    New cars are the property of the finance company, not the consumer That aside, I think he is talking intellectual property, not anything physical. Must be an American.
  10. 1 like
    Oops - thought I'd changed all that but I clearly didn't go back and set the rest of the groups correctly You should now be able to upload up to 10MB per post (total of all images). If you upload large images they'll be automatically resized to a sensible maximum for web use.
  11. 1 like
    Take the door panel off, and make sure all the rods are in place that should be, not bent, and that none of the bushing have fallen out or disintegrated. Also, check hinge alignment, as too much pressure on the locking mechanism can make it tricky to open. My passenger door does this, but being a passenger door, it doesn't get fixed
  12. 1 like
    To be honest having been involved briefly with testing of the original hornet i do agree on some points, on a personal level I would say Neal is a friend first & foremost In the grand scheme of things there are different strokes for different folks, im at a point now where i find challenge events boring & have no desire to spend a weekend winching from 🌲 to 🌲 or up to my armpits in mud, i find the U4 events much more rewarding to the point I've just finished building what i would say is my ultimate vehicle, no compromise & no corners cut, People are balking at how much money I've spent recently but i believe if you want something bad enough you will do what's needed to get it
  13. 1 like
    Thanks for the advice on this. I stripped it and gave it all a good clean up last night and then reassembled. It is now as smooth as the other diff with the same amount of backlash A few pounds saved! :-)
  14. 1 like
    Haha for sure Bushy, the pic above shows the new seal seated and the old seal (pushing against it) 😊👍
  15. 1 like
    What would you know Pick a Part have one.... well they have one that has been there for several months lol hoping to find out if it still has its motor tomorrow so I may fix this one yet.... if I do I"ll bif the suspension out of the landy in it Been invited to do a trip down Haast on the westcoast, would be real cool to go do as the land owner might be closing access due to idiots not respecting his farm when they drive through
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  17. 1 like
    That's made from Nige's shim collection
  18. 1 like
    We believe you for sure. LOL
  19. 1 like
    I do think it helps for anyone doing this if you can do the 90 deg in one movement - or failing this do a bit, then restart, but aim to complete in the second movement. I think the further you are on, the harder it is to restart. So if you have a limited movement, do say 30 deg, then reset and finish in one, rather than have to stop and do the the last 10 deg. I use a torque multiplier and it still makes me wonder whether the breaker bar will break.
  20. 1 like
    I think he'd just have a huge vertical plate on one end of a surplus Warrior from Withams and drive it up against a sturdy wall..
  21. 1 like
    I hear Nige has ordered this one .....
  22. 1 like
    Veroboard is ideal for that sort of thing...
  23. 1 like
    I would have grabbed that immediately as a potentially collectable item! Really bizarre.
  24. 1 like
    If your Discovery is an 06 it will be a TDV6 and therefore won't have a traditional fuel stop solenoid, it will most likely just stop telling the injectors to fire. It sound to me like you have a corroded earth somewhere, the engine ecu might be earthing via the lighting circuit. It's difficult to say where the fault could be, it's obviously not ideal having the sunroof leaking into the car as parts of the main loom run under the plastic trim on the sills and any connections within that section quickly corrode and fail.
  25. 1 like
  26. 1 like
    flush with the alloy flywheel housing so the flywheel does not touch the seal when rotating
  27. 1 like
    Smashing Ralph ta !! The valeo defo isn't marked
  28. 1 like
    As I wrote earlier I went with a simple but effective method to lock the drop slide into place. 2 pins are better than 1, besides it keeps everything uniform on the build. Hope that this project is as helpful to others as it is to me. Todd.
  29. 1 like
    Its defo an air fitting, I'm using the same thing on my D3 x2 on its suitability for fuel use
  30. 1 like
    Certainly watchable, and probably better than TG was when it first relaunched with the trio. Enjoyed the desert racing for sure. The personalities and relationships will develop, then they will become a bit more natural.... But over all 100% better than when CE was running it...
  31. 1 like
    Purely metal? They make the two way tailgate hinges and have a picture of some HD hood sticks on their website. http://www.purelymetal.co.uk/
  32. 1 like
    Ickzackly Trickydicky, what you call the drain hole I call the grease escape hole if it is full enough with grease then no space for water to get in BUT it must be free so that either extra grease or water can get out.
  33. 1 like
    The stop solenoid will only require little current to keep it open enough to let enough fuel through to idle. Step 1 is when it is doing this to remove the feed to the stop solenoid at the stop solenoid and prove this is the problem. If this is the case, the stop solenoid is getting a small leakage current and it may not be the lighting circuit, it could be anywhere as electricity is fickle stuff! Let us know if it stops with the feed removed. Cheers Peter
  34. 1 like
    Why? Should it be in the off topic section? Oh.. wait.........
  35. 1 like
    That's why he is going to clean it and inspect it Nick . If all checks out and it was indeed dirt in the taper rollers and it's all smooth with an appropriate amount of backlash and tooth contact there is no reason it should fail . Steve b
  36. 1 like
    You're not allowed to have phones on in A&E.
  37. 1 like
    I hooked the chains onto the tubes that go through the bulkhead to take the bulkhead to outrigger bolts. Mike
  38. 1 like
    Oh dear. I had forgotten about this thread. Over two years have passed, and a little progress has been made. The insulation is pretty much done. I've had to replace the roller door tube motor, as that failed and had no manual overide. That made things a bit tricky getting gear in and out through the side door for a while. I also replaced the timber cladding that was trapped behind the roller box. I actually managed to fit the RRC inside for quite a few months before it was evicted so I could work on other jobs. It just fits under the roller door. Last summer I finally completed the 10mm2 SWA supply from the house to the garage, so that means the Colchester lathe is finally operational again, and no more running an extension cable from the house when I want to weld. The cable had been buried for at least a year but it took far too long to get it connected up at both ends. I now have a CU with separate circuits for the phase converter, the sockets, the lights, and eventually I'll add a 16A socket for the welder. The floor still isn't fully painted as I just have too much of it covered. The Bridgeport is still at my parents' house. I need to clear enough space for that first. Currently I have V8 parts everywhere while I rebuild the 110's engine - an unplanned and unwelcome job at this particular moment. Other equipment gained include a free vintage vertical bandsaw that needs a little TLC. Also I bought a small media blasting cabinet to help clean up certain engine parts. I'm running crushed walnut shells - they're great for cleaning carbon deposits without damaging the aluminium components.
  39. 1 like
    Ralph, I read your swap thread it was really interesting thanks for putting it up, did you use 4 x 2 timbers or did you have something more robust? Mark
  40. 1 like
    Davo, Its proverbially pissing down and there are reports of quite a few hardy (read stupid) tourists who ignored advice from the traditional land owners (indigenous Aboriginal Australians) and tried to drive through rather than turning back. Some of them are now faced with a few days/weeks wait while bogged down to their axles in sticky mud until a 4WD tractor can get to them to pull them out, --- at around $4000 per vehicle, - cash only or selected debit cards only are accepted. The extraordinary high cost pays for a grader to repair the damage they caused to the track, credit cards are generally declined as some unhappy tourists have been known to cancel or dispute the transaction as soon as they reach a telephone.
  41. 1 like
    It is quite large... but thats an advantage for me at 6'3". Its the only vehicle I've ever driven without the seat all the way back!
  42. 1 like
    Nope But there again, the latest mini truly fell out the ugly tree hitting every branch on the way down.
  43. 1 like
    I'll echo that HH... The Disco sport has also grown on me, although having seen one parked next to a FL2, it did look a bit toy like in comparison.
  44. 1 like
    😂 I'm simply using the continuous improvement process Uncle 😊 As for carrying less, that would be a waste of that relentless wave of torque ! 😉
  45. 1 like
    Interesting. I was under the impression that Quaife owned the design of the original Gigglepin twin motor set up and Jim was just the main distributor - something to do with development costs I know where I would shop - and it isn't at Jim's
  46. 1 like
    Did you just knock that photo up? I've looked really closely but I can't say for sure there's a vice in the frame? Please be very very careful, I'm actually worried for those cans. Def going to do a little bit on my 75, and if a few quid comes in I'll potentially chase up a 74 and maybe an 80 to complete the set. But there's something else I plan to do a little bit of a feature on... (not mine, but identical)
  47. 1 like
    I only have a Record 36. I feel so inadequate now 🙁 😉 Mo
  48. 1 like
    I'd keep it standard height if you can. a set of new-take-off springs would be a good bet.
  49. 1 like
    I was standing in the office kitchen window yesterday, watching the weather and looking at a brand new Disco Sport HSE parked outside. I found myself thing what an attractive rear end it had. Slightly off topic I know - for which I heartily apologise
  50. 1 like
    Not this one. That just means you'll have to do it again next year......or the year after. Mike